Beyond identifying in very general terms which orchids Caro has (a Phalanopsis type, an Oncidium type, et cetera), there is-- practically speaking -- zero chance on obtaining accurate/reliable IDs on her orchids even after they bloom. There are simply FAR too many look alike hybrids out there. Now there are a couple for which identification will be fairly easy -- only because you still have tags for them, Caro. Pot.Burana Beauty 'Burana' (single quotes not double) is a Cattleya type. Pot. = Potinara ... an artificial genus created by hybridization of members within the Laelia subtribe -- Cattleyas are one of the members of that subtribe. (I don't know if in taxonomic circles if "Potinara" is even still considered valid. Recent upheavals in taxonomy has resulted in may plants getting shuffled into different classification categories.) In any event, the flowers of that particular hybrid are yellow with a red "flare" running down the middle of the lip and the two petals. (The outer 3 "petals" are properly termed "sepals." Blame the botanists for that. heh) The only other orchid for which you will be able to get a concrete ID is the Epi.Green Hornet ... although the "Epi" is highly doubtful as far as I know. (I'll bore you with that in a minute. ) Green Hornet, as you suspected, would be your Oncidium type orchid. Now to mess with your head. Epi = Epidendrum. Unfortunately, referring to your Green Hornet, that genus name is definitely wrong -- at least based on current taxonomy. One of the two parents of that hybrid was once upon a time known as Encyclia (or Epidendrum ... the two genera are closely related) cochleata. Later, due to "significant" taxological differences, it was moved to Prostheca and became Prostheca cochleata. However, this was found to simply been a synonym for an earler name -- Anacheilium. By taxonomy rules, an earlier name always takes precedence. So currently, that parent is known as Anacheilium cochleatum. The other parent is also, if I am correct, an Anacheilium. Therefore the correct name for your plant is likely Anacheilium Green Hornet. And even if I am incorrect about the 2nd parent, there is still no way that Epidendrum is correct. Have a headache yet? heh Rodden, your AV would be considered a "standard" AV. Standards -- depending upon genetics and cultural conditions -- can be up to 2ft across.

Carmela's is by far the best outfit I've ordered plants from. The plants come well-packed, of good size, and have done the best long-term in my collection. Eoom is next--wish their selection was bigger--followed by v.coerulea on ebay, then Carter and Holmes, whose stuff is small and young for the pot size. Alia

@brooke - Awesome, thanks. If I recall properly and if the flickr member is who I think it is, you have a really nicely shaped one. Hope mine turns out like that too. Do they have similarly long spikes to rubescens? @smwboxer - that is beautiful. I think I need one of these. @tman - that's fascinating. I've never heard/seen it grown in anything but moss (live usually). I've heard these are difficult and are the holy grail of dend growing (mainly from Nick's and other's posts). Haven't ever tried it, although there is a local grower of masdies and draculas who also grows these. I'm amazed that they are fine with the heat outside - good job!

This is a great thread! There are so many considerations for us summer out/winter indoors people. In the summer I have cattleyas, dendrobiums, oncidiums, and bulbophyllums out on a porch, with direct sun in the morning and late afternoon, and shade overhead at midday. This year I put out paphs too, on the bottom shelf where they had more shade. Everything does very well and adds a lot of growth. In the winter, they all move to a sunroom facing west but with a south exposure too. Life for my orchids improved immensely when I added Wonderlites (in the west and south windows) and big humidity trays to this set up, and it cost very little. Most winter days it is about 60% humidity, high of 80 F and low 55F. I have a tiny space heater to boost heat on really cold nights. My electric bill is just $25-30 a month. It helps that this room can be closed off to retain the humidity. I have the catts in clay pots and water about once a week. I think the humidity helps them cope with drying out completely. Another factor I think is that I choose catts that aren't seasonal bloomers but bloom at various times of the year. Originally I chose them just because I wanted to get more blooms, but I also figure they have a built-in urge to keep growing and not go dormant when the light and heat wane. They make lots of leads and lots of blooms during winter. My only basket plants are brassavolas that I water every other day. Calvin, I think your plan to cut back on water and fert until you see signs of growth is exactly the way to go. Generally I think it's important to observe the plants really closely and follow their lead. By the way I suffered from tinted windows for a month or two before I realized what was going on, but mine came with a little label that warned against using ammonia or detergent to clean them. The anti-UV tint was just a surface film that was gone with a few vigorous washings. By the way, I also remove the screens in winter as they cut down on the light. Good luck and keep experimenting! Margo