OK yeah your PH is a bit high but nothing to worry about at this point IMHO. Best way to deal with it is to use a urea based fertilizer. YOu are in DFW so there are a lot of John Deer Landscape dealers in town go buy a product # 000777 a 39-0-0 slow release urea fertilizer. Apply 3-lbs/Kft2 every 30 to 45 days up until the end of October.

The closest large seller of farm fertilizer is about 50 mi south of here, but I can arrange a stop there on my way to getting pastured meat in the Fall. There used to be one not 15 miles from here but no more. As some of you know, my pH=9.2 water coupled with pH=7.7 soil can be a handful. Only grapes need it in the orchard, and I give it to tomatoes and potatoes in the garden, and of course I add more organic matter than most (21% OM in the garden). Anyhow, IIRC in late 2011 one 50lb bag of sulfur was $20. I had to sign a declaration that it and the rest of the stuff was intended for food production not to pay the sales tax. If you have relatively large holdings, it pays to go to such a place. A single 50 lbs urea bag allows many years of fertilization between trips. The 2011 trip was concomitant to starting the orchard in horrible, lifeless, compacted P=7ppm soil, so I got 25lbs of superP, 100 lbs of sulfur, microminerals solution to be added in the sprayer, and 50lbs of urea which will take me to 2020 or so. I have now added over 30 tons of wood chips to the orchard, and the soil is less horrible, but to start it you have to do a first amending.

A good lawn and garden begins with good soil. The best way to find out the condition of your soil is to contact a local County Extension office and get a soil test done. These are in most states but there are exceptions, CA and OR being two. In this case you can usually find a private lab listed in your Yellow Pages, on the Web or get a referral from a University or Garden Center. They are generally quite inexpensive for a basic evaluation (less than $10). You can get home test kits but the feeling is that the lab tests are more reliable. A soil test will help determine what your native soil is so you can select plants that will do well on your land. In most cases the lab will make recommendations for amendments you can add to alter the characteristics of your soil for optimal plant growth. Having your soil tested allows you to determine the best plants for your garden and gives you a baseline for improving it depending on the type of plants you wish to grow. Testing on a regular basis allows you to monitor the available nutrient, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and add what is needed for optimal plant growth and vigor. The best time to test your soil is in late fall or early spring. This gives the soil microbes time to adjust to, and incorporate the corrections. The Testing Process Most of the labs will send you the details on how they want you to collect samples but they are basically similar to this. Gather together: A Clean Bucket A Clean Trowel A Clean 1 Qt container for the sample Collect The Sample Dig a number of holes 6-8 inches deep in the area you wish to test. Take a thin slice from the wall of the hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat for each of the holes you dug. Thoroughly mix all the soil together. If the soil is very wet spread it out on some newspaper to let it dry a bit. It is important to have a dry sample. If the sample is too wet it can give false results. Place some of the collected soil in the container and seal. Mark the bag with your name, address, and date. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE BEFORE ADDING ANYTHING TO YOUR SOIL. THE FOLLOWING ARE VERY BROAD, GENERAL GUIDLINES AND SHOULD NOT BE DONE WITHOUT PROPER RECOMENDATIONS The testing agency can give you specific recommendations on amounts of material you need to add to get the desired results. Alkaline Soil-pH above 7.0 pH too low--Adding sulfur will lower the pH Acidic Soil-pH below 7.0 pH too high--Adding lime will raise pH Poor Nitrogen Content Addition of fertilizers Natural (preferred) or synthetic will increase the soils nitrogen content. Nitrogen Levels Too High It is possible to have soil that is too rich. Too reduce the nitrogen content water well and often and add no additional fertilizer till levels are reduced. Low Phosphorus Levels Bone meal or super phosphate will bring up the phosphorus levels. Phosphorus Level Too High Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus and plant densely to use up the excess. Low Potassium Level Add potash to raise the potassium High Potassium Levals Add no additional potassium till levels are reduced. Side Note Gardeners who practice Organic methods have often found chemical additions to be a temporary fix. It has been shown that the addition of vegetative matter, in the form of compost, worked into the soil every year will usually have the effect of leveling out chemical unbalances. This often will have a much more permanent and positive effect. Improving Soil Texture/Drainage (Tilth) Soil falls into a number of categories. Clay, sand, loam, and many combinations. Each has distinct characteristics. Poor draining, unable to retain nutrients, dense and hard to plant in or work. In most cases the addition of organic materials will improve the condition of whatever type or soil you may have. A few of the things that are effective are: Compost Peat Moss Leaf Mold Shredded Leaves Thanks to all who contributed to this piece.

If you don't want to go to the expense of an electronic pH meter, I've had good results with dye indicator solutions like General Hydroponics' PH Test Kit. They certainly aren't as precise as a digital meter, but they're reliable and very affordable. For more accuracy at the lower end of the pH scale, I also use the Bromocresol Green Kit from mslavenda.com. At this point, if your blueberry isn't showing signs of chlorosis or other deficiencies, then I wouldn't take any drastic steps based on the results from your current meter. At pH 7, you'd almost definitely be seeing chlorotic leaves and poor growth. Moving forward, a dye indicator or high-quality meter will allow you to test your irrigation water with some precision and to determine the right amount of vinegar to add to bring the irrigation water down to the appropriate pH range (5 to 5.5 is good). While ewwmayo is right about vinegar not being good for long term pH adjustments, its role in this scenario is to temporarily bring down the pH of the irrigation water so that the nutrients, in solution in the potting mix, will be easily accessible to your blueberry's specialized root system.