There is another concern, that you may or may not have heard of, and that deals with the soil's natural bacteria and fungus. If you have a woodland, there is a type of fungus that grows naturally, and a type of bacteria that grows naturally, let's call them Type A. On an established lawn, there is a natural type of fungus, and of bacteria that grows naturally, but the problem is that they are Type B. Now that the woods are torn down, there is plenty of Type A fungus beneath the soil, but not Type B, which you need. Mycorrhiza is the specific type of fungus that you need: it attaches (grows from) the plant roots, outward into the soil, and helps the roots do a better job. Google that word, and you can find a lot of articles about it. Here's a link to Bio-Vam, which is a product that I have used, with great success. My office lawn was installed with topsoil that had apparently been sitting around in a bin somewhere for a year or two, and nobody could grow a lawn on that soil. I had just moved into the office, and, purely coincidentally, had just read an article on mycorrhiza fungus, and a highway project, and the difference it had made. Short version of the story (I'm leaving out the secret spray of the product in an evening, then openly declaring, next day, that no one had ever toasted the lawn gods with Irish whiskey, and made the partners come out to do it with me) was that there was a noticeable difference in seven days, and an outstanding difference in three weeks. I am convinced, totally, on the subject of mycorrhiza. I recommend Bio Vam only because it's the only product that I have used. I don't know if it's expensive, nor if it's cheap. It's the only one I have used. But I would seed the lawn, let it sprout, and spray the mycorrihiza. I would also fertilize with Milorganite, or some other sewage-based fertilizer product (there are several brands available on the East coast), as they won't burn the lawn. It's true you're going to lose some percentage of that seeded lawn. Fifty percent? Twenty Five? Ten? If you planted in the fall, you would also lose some percentage of that lawn. A lower percentage? Probably. But it's a function of how well you are able to keep the seed, and then those seedlings, moist but not wet. Keep the hose and nozzle moving, no puddling allowed. No puddles. But most new grass plants are lost when they're about the height of a dime (the ten cent coin) laying flat on the ground. At that height, they can dry out in an hour or two, less if there's a hot sunny, windy day. There's no root to let it grab moisture (the root hasn't grown yet) so there's no sense in any 'deep' watering. Just mist it. But if you do that, then when tomorrow gets here, that little plant will be a little more healthy, a little more tall, with a root a little more deep. And the next day. And the next day. Good luck with it. Here is a link that might be useful: Bio Vam mycorrhiza fungus

>How big of an area are you talking about?Rather small, actually. It's a small strip alongside the driveway, measuring something like 5' x 10'. >I'm going to go back to TW's first post and suggest that your friend should learn to love Bermuda.I suppose he could learn to love dandelions, oxalis and crabgrass as well, but that's really not an ideal suggestion for my fescue lawn or garden beds growing alongside it. I can't understand anyone who *chooses* to grow Bermuda grass. It's invasive to every other part of your landscape, ugly (compared to fescue anyway) and turns a lovely shade of brownish gray in the winter. :( Solarization sounds like the most effective choice, but lord, having a dead lawn next door for the next year hardly has me dancing for joy. But I appreciate the suggestions.

The type(s) of grass you used should be listed on the bag of seed you bought. If you don't have it, then from your pics and description of how long it took to germinate I'd guess you have mostly rye grass, probably perennial, but it could also be annual. If you have a mix of grasses, then your mix probably has some seeds that haven't germinated yet, or have just started. It's essential to keep seeds continually moist until the period for germination is over but that depends on the grass type. Growing grass and taking care of it isn't rocket science, you need to cut it regularly, water it when it needs water, and fertilizer periodically. Unfortunately you have overseeded your warm season grass with a cool season grass. It's going to look great now and probably through the winter and spring, but once the heat returns, it will struggle, and the warm season grass will start to wake up and compete with what you just planted. Also overseeding warm season grass will weaken it and it's quality won't be as nice next year. Since you already overseeded you might as well take care of your new grass. Mow it when it reaches 3 inches tall, cut it down to 2 inches. Do a search on this forum and you will find many threads regarding new lawns, overseeding warm seeding grasses, cool season grasses, and other lawn care info.

Dear BT33 Thank you very much for your inquiry. I suggest you buy a product called Acclaim extra (fenoxaprop-ethyl). It will take out crabgrass easily, and with repeat applications 2-3 weeks apart will knockout the bermudagrass. You will need to go to a turf specialty/supply store (like Lesco) to get this product, I believe. Seeds and stems do travel via vehicles and water. There is little to do to prevent it. It has been happening in nature since the beginning. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers, The Briggs & Stratton Yard Doctor, YardDoctor.com