Hi I have a 9hp B&S vertical shaft model 28B702 engine. I recently replaced the flywheel with a used geared one so I could add a starter to it. I sheared a couple of flywheel keys until I noted a torque of 80 ft. lbs was needed, I did that but today while starting it backfired a couple of times and now will not start. So I need to pull the flywheel and change the key again I guess. I also did not pay attention to the Delieve washer but noted someone mention it had to be dish side down. I think 80 ft. lbs should be okay, but I think I saw somewhere it my be up to 100 ft. lbs torque. Thats quite a bit of torque I don't think I can handle that as I have shoulder issues. I"ll try the 80-85 ft. lbs first and hopefully it stays torqued. Could it be that the used flywheel need lapping so it fits tighter to the shaft? I cleaned the shaft and flywheel hole with some brake cleaner so it should grab better. Thanks for any suggestions Hugo 138

"using catch can, test for fuel flow to carb inlet by cranking engine. Be careful of fire." I would point out this will do no good as the engine has a fuel pump built into the carb. As mentioned way back up on this very old thread, check the vacuum impulse line from the engine block to the fuel pump. This will be the bottom line, gas line is on the side IF you took the fuel pump apart, did you find and properly replace the 2 tiny springs? I can send you a Service Manual for the engine IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me the engine model number and what you want. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

Does the crack coincide with one of the head bolt holes? Do you know whether this engine has ever had the head off previously. I have never seen it happen in engines of this genre, but I have seen it in a large diesel engine wherein a cylinder head gasket was being replaced and the mechanic failed to "blow out" the head bolt holes with compressed air after removing the head, or before putting the head back on. The head bolt holes were partially filled with a mixture of coolant, diesel fuel, and engine lube oil. In addition to that, the tech had coated the threads of the head bolts with a grease type "torquing compound". To speed things up, the mechanic used a pneumatic impact wrench to "run the bolts in" prior to torquing them. The resultant extreme hydraulic pressure that was created ahead of the impact wrench driven head bolts caused the engine block to crack at 3 bolt holes. The cracks traveled from the edge of the bolt holes to the edge of the cylinder liner bore. It would be a long shot to try associating the crack in this Briggs engine to the circumstances of the big truck engine, but something as rare as this must be caused by equally rare circumstances.

***"I tried to turn the "wheel" on top of the engine but it looks like it turns one or two full times before it gets tight again."*** What you describe in the sentence above is normal and is not a symptom of any defect. The description of how it only wanted to run when the choke was applied points to a carburetor needing a thorough cleaning of the internal parts. Why it quit running altogether when you were mowing with it hopefully just means additional trash in the fuel hoses finally blocked the carb passages completely, or trash coming out of the tank finally clogged the fuel filter. If this engine is equipped with a fuel pump, it's possible that the fuel pump could have failed also. In a case of 5 years storage you will need to clean carb and fuel tank. You also need to replace all the fuel hoses and fuel filter. Now, the detail about how you hear the starter sound but it looks like something is stalling the engine: This is a Briggs Over Head Valve type engine (OHV). Briggs says to adjust the valves annually. It only takes for the valves to be out of adjustment a little bit to cause the compression release feature to become ineffective. So I would think that your new battery has been used to crank the engine much more than it would have if you were not having the other problems...........and you have not been able to run the engine long enough to recharge it............and with the valves needing to be adjusted, the weak new battery just can't spin the engine past the tight spot. I believe you need to call the man to handle these issues unless you own a fairly good collection of basic mechanic tools and have some basic mechanic skills. If you feel comfortable attempting a DIY repair to the issues, there are people on this board that can offer guidance, but it is you who would be performing the work.