Thanks for writing, I appreciate it. The engine is New-Old-Stock, which I installed one month ago. I bought it in the plastic New-In-Box and I have used it twice, this last month. When running she has plenty of power, but when it gets hot, I have to prime it to get it started and after 20-25 pulls it will fire-up. Once started, it is okay, as long as I don't kill it. I am running 30wt 22oz Valvoline and I installed a new Napa inline filter for extra protection. Come to think of it, she is pretty hard to start cold. I guess I have to crank 15 times to start cold, after pumping the prime about 10-12 times.The other day, when she got hot, I had to quickly remove the cleaner and spray a dab of carb cleaner in the throat and she did fire up. I have another coil in my junk box would you start there? Yes, priming is a must cold or hot. Thanks LumpyMeatLoaf PS. I have changed the plug too, with no change.

I will comment that when returning an engine to service that has been stored a long time without having had a "blueprint" (the OEM criteria) pre-storage preparation service procedure done to it, you should remove the spark plug and squirt some clean motor oil (the same stuff you plan to put in the crankcase) into the cylinder. About 3-4 teaspoons worth is all you need. Then with the spark plug still out, pull the start rope very slowly to turn the crankshaft a few revolutions. This will provide some lube to the cylinder walls and piston rings. OK, now you can connect a spark plug to the spark plug cable and lay it on the head where you can observe the gap of the plug electrodes. Give a good pull on the rope and watch the plug for sparks. If you have sparks, I would then spray a little carb cleaner into the carb throat and pull the rope again to see if the engine will start and run for a couple seconds on the shot of cleaner. If the engine runs on the shots of carb cleaner, it will be time to try some gas in the tank. I suggest you mix some upper cylinder lube oil (Marvel Mystery Oil or equivalent) and some Seafoam in the gas before adding it to the dry tank. A dab of Stabil will be good too. After that you will just have to see how well it does. Good luck.

I agree with you, which the chart (“opened with the quick link”) at the bottom of the first long post basically list. Now that I remember, I found a review that stated “the new mower comes assembled and you just add the quart of oil that comes with the mower” which I doubt was a qt. My neighbor new mid grade mower came with a 15 oz bottle of oil. He and his Yardman un-boxed and added some of the oil vs verifying. It smoked so bad I knew something was wrong and ask them to stop and no oil was showing on the stick. I called Home Depot and was told to add the complete 15 oz bottle that came with the mower. We did and the stick checked full. I felt the excessive smoke that finally ended was from the bad positions they had the mower in while adding etc with some oil in it. Directions are not always clear “To Us”! Not to mention being in a hurry w/o looking at any instructions. The Donor Mowers have dried up in this area the last 2-3 yrs. You have to ask for what had been on the curb (after seeing them sit 2-3 yrs outside behind a storage area). The scrap dealers are in larger numbers ahead of the week of monthly City Bulk Pick-up. I still believe maintained residential used mowers vs commercial used mowers are not used an expected lifetime vs a lack of lack of care.

MB, Here is how I would look at this problem. 1. What is the water demand per day or week for your plants at maturity? My general estimate is about 1.0 gal per plant per week. If very arid climate say1.5 gal per week for 200 plants is 300 gal per week. That is equivalent to one of your tanks which is good storage capacity. Do you produce 300 gal per week in rainfall? 2. You need to find out the flow and pressure of your 1.5 HP pump. The outlet size does not matter at this point. The smaller the pipe size the more velocity in the pipe. Velocity is only harmful when it exceeds 5 fps and can cause water hammer(blowouts). You can look up a 1.5 hp pump that is similar to yours on Google and see what the pressure is. The pressure is important because you are using it directly for drip. 3. Size a pump that would put out 150 gals for 25 mins. That would be a 6-10 gpm pump with 10-15 psi operating pressure. I bet your pool pump would be a lot more than that. You probably would need a pressure reducer on you pool pump. and gate valve to restrict flow. 4. Let us know what you find out or have more questions. 5. Aloha