Any garden tractors can handle demanding tasks. I have 1995 2186-48 Cub Cadet and it still runs and it still mows great. I and my dad mowed with it for years. My neighbor have 1000 series lawn mower once time had backfire and it blew the muffler apart. My dad repaired it for him free assuming it was easy to fixed. Then he checked it out and found nothing wrong with it. Anyway, the maintenance and instructions should be followed careful with common sense. I remembered we had old craftsman mower and it did fell apart, mostly the deck because it catches the dirt and it got bend up causing the blades hitting it. Nothing is worse than poor made machines and see it falling apart no time.

Well, I looked at a Cub Cadet GT1554 today, along side of a Husqvarna YTH 2454 Lawn tractor. 'Not the GTs that I plan to buy, but close enough to get a feel for each brands finer details and overall quality. Prior to that, I looked at a JD X500 just for an ultimate reference (The xenoy hood and the operator controls seemed equal to $3000 GTs; everything else seemed appropriate for a $5600 GT). The Cub's 54" mower deck looked pretty sturdy and had a full width trailing edge roller system on the back of the deck. The Husqvarna seem to be more carefully detailed/finished and the grease-zerks for the mower deck spindles were on top poking through the plastic guard nacelles; I couldn't see the Cub's mower spindle grease-zerks but the guard nacelles were sturdy metal. The wide front tires on the Cub (7.5") seems like a good idea for rolling over rough pasture. The Cub's hood had better ventilation for the engine, and I think the all plastic hood might muffle the engine slightly more than the Husky's half metal/half plastic hood. Decisions, decisions... If anyone reading my descriptions have purchased either the Cub Cadet GT2544 or Husqvarna 2748GLS tractors, or near equivalent to recent models Cub or Husky GTs, please chime in with your experience. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. tomplum and rcbe, The lawn tractor is a Cub Cadet Model 1525. I have been using a Sperry model DSA-500 to do the electrical checks. Using the definition of a DVOM that I looked up on Google the Sperry meter I have been using is a DVOM. The starter will not crank unless I am setting on the seat, I have the brake pressed and the PTO switch is in the disengaged position and the RMC Module is removed. The motor is getting spark for the spark plug and fuel flows when the starter turns. I have jumped 12 volts to the solenoid input and the coil completes the connection to the starter. The three limit switch safety devises (seat, brake and PTO) work correctly. And, when the RMC is removed the starter kicks in and the engine runs. When the RMC is left in the system the solenoid does not get enough voltage to allow the coil to function. I have downloaded the Service Manual for the 1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors. On page 72 the maual says " The starter safety circuir has no connection to the RMC Module." The next paragraph says, " the safety circuits that are capable of turning-off the engine work through the RMC module." The module 1525 does not have the RMC display on the dash of the tractor that is discribed and pictured in the remainder of the manual. On page 75 the manual says, "When the RMC is disarmed , the tractor will operate as MTD tractors have historically operated:...." This statement on page 75 is why I have asked if the mower is really capable of cutting grass with the RMC removed. I do not understand what the RMC does that the seat, PTO and brake limit switches can not do. I am not trying to wire around an safety device. I had a friend who wired around the seat switch and the mower flipped over and he was laying under the mower with the blade turning above him. HIs back was cut in several places by the blades. It took several months for him to recover. I do not want to place myself and my family members in an unsafe condition. I am just trying to understand the RMC's function. I do not understand why the RMC appears to be dropping the voltage that the solenoid needs. And, why would the RMC be getting very warm when the key is turned on? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks again for reading and replying. Don.

Well I own Both Deere's and Cub Cadet's several of each. I would go with The Cub 3100 just because it a full fledged Garden tractor more comparable to the Deere X700 series. The GT3100 can take a Cat 0 3point hitch,42inch Hydraulic tiller, 54inch dozer blade,45inch two stage snow blower and even a Bucket Loader if you so desire. I would not worry about those Hrs on the Kohler 470hrs is fine that engine will last alot longer than that it a commercial Kohler engine a Kohler Command. I have several Kohler engine on machines that are 30 to 40 years old and still running strong. I personally for 1.5 acres would atleast use a Garden tractor to take care of That size Property. I have 5.5 acres myself and use a JD X485 which is the same as a Deere X720 for my main tractor. That 44inch deck will leave a Nice cut on the lawn You will not have the problems you had with the JD L120. The Cub Cadet is the best Deal for the money. Here is a link that might be useful: Cub 3100 Spec's