Two-cycle Lawnmower for Hills?
9 years ago
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Comments (13)
- 9 years ago
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Inexpensive/smallish lawnmower sweet spot?
Comments (16)MTD not only made your Yard Machine, but also makes Cub Cadet, Bolens, White, Huskee, Yard Man, and Troy Bilt. Pretty much most of the lower end of these "Brands" are identical, except for paint, stickers, and engine and probably havent really changed all that much from your last version. Basically they are the same mower as the Walmart Yard Machine montesa_vr mentioned for $200 with a Honda engine, its the same engine Northern Tool sells for $200. Basically Yardman / Walmart / MTD throw in the mower for free! Granted there are probably bulk pricing and volume discounts thrown in so that WalMart and MTD are making profits which basically means you get a free deck, wheels, blade and handle, compared to buying just the engine elsewhere! Then to make the rest of the models they throw on high wheels at $20, self propell at $50, a bag for $40, electric start for $50, pretty soon your talking about a $350 mower thats basically an engine with a few upgrades on a free deck! And people wonder why their mowers dont last for 10+ years anymore. Now some of the higher end Cubs and Troy Bilts may be better with different decks and maybe even another label by MTD may not be bad. Look at your lawnmower as a cost per week. That first lawnmower probably cost $200 - $250. Replacing it with a similar model will run you about $250. If performance is similar and it lasts 6 years thats $41 dollars a year. If you cut your grass 30 weeks out of the year, thats about $1.38 a week. Most people discussing 10 - 15 years of relatively trouble free service are usually discussing Snappers, Hondas, LawnBoys and Toros which start around $450 to $550 for their upper end lines with self propell, or the bottom line for the Hondas. Basically you are talking about $45 to $55 a year for the peace of mind that the wheels or other parts probably wont start falling off after the second year. And as lond as there is routine maintenence should last over 10 years. Vs. the $41 a year based on your experience with the old Yard Machine and replacing it with a new one. The Toro Super Recyclers and Lawn Boy Platinum series also come with full 5 year Waranties....See MoreQuestion on 2 cycle Toro
Comments (6)Before you get too excited, you need to determine whether it's a commercial or consumer mower. Both used variations of the Suzuki 2 stroke. The commercial version is the Promaster and has steel wheels with ball bearings, a much heavier black-painted handle, and heavier duty accessories all around (throttle cables, drive cables, etc.) The consumer version uses plastic wheels with buskings on the axle stubs, lighter chromed handles, etc. If its a Promaster it should sell well. Frankly, I think the consumer version is only worth a fraction. However, either way, the Suzuki is one of the best 2 stroke engines around, in the same class as the Subaru Robin IMHO....See MoreLawnmower Design and Use
Comments (4)I truely hope your for real about this but even if your not, nice work on getting me to waste my phone battery! I'm not old, 31, so I hope my contribution is useable. I cut my lawn in jeans with either a t-shirt when warmer/early season and add a hooded sweatshirt (50/50 ratio of pull over to zip up) when it's cooler/later in the season. A belt is also in use during and I like to wear my dark tinted stihl shades/eye protection too. To what I think your really looking for. I cut in rows that are parallel to my street, following the bends of the closest piece of concrete. This is side to side across the front off my home. The back and side yards are also cut in a manner which I feel is the most efficient/uses the least amount of strokes. I currently squire a Honda HRX217HXA across the lawn and employed a Honda HRT216TDA prior. I mulch my grass for a couple reasons and this is also why replaced my perfect HRT (5.5hp) with the HRX (6.5hp). My lawn is quite healthy as I use a company to apply federalizer/herbacide/etc as they recommend for my locale. Couple a healthy well fed lawn with a job that requies more hours than most, STL's randomly occurring and widely varied climate/weather, a wife, two pugs and most importantly, my 3yr old daughter and 5m old son, sometimes the grass don't get cut every week as I'd like. I have been forced to mow my 16" fescue/bluegrass at 8am Sunday morning after a solid 36+ hours of rainfall. I needed a mower that could mulch this and leave minimal residuals (green sludge trails). The HRX handily performs these duties and much more. I don't compost my clippings because a)that'd require me to bag, silly b)my lawn is getting herbicide applied and I want nothing to do with potentially dealing with residual product compromising my gardens tomato yield c) mulching is free food for my lawn and thatch, at least with my variety of grasses is not present. I store it I'm my garage. My fuel is treated with a stabilizer that is ethanol blended gasoline specific. My mower has a fuel shutoff valve so I close urbane run the mower till it dies every cutting. I then completely fill the gas, then blow it off with my backpack blower before parking till next week. In preperation of the off season, I put about 1/4 tank of my already stabilized fuel but also add an additional pour of stabilizer to the gas in the gas tank. I then run the mower completely out of fuel. Next is an Oil change which to this point has been with Rotalla 5-30 but I may switch to either Mobil 1 synthetic (what my cars get) or Amsoil. After that I pull the plug off and pull the cord till the engine is at TDC (piston closest to the top) and pour a bit oil in the combustion chamber. Lastly I re install the plug then cover old girl with a tarp till spring beckons. The only two things that I would change about my mower is the weight and the fuel consumption. Both of which are more than acceptable to me as unavoidable occurrences on a machine like mine and are not complaints in any way at all. Who wouldn't want their 101lb mower to be 75 or for it to use even less fuel? No one. It is not the least bit cumbersome for me to use as I have learned how to finesse it and allow its heft to work in my favor also I'm not the biggest dude but at 6'1" and 190 I'm no fly weight either. Just to recap here, I honestly feel Honda did all that was possible to them to keep my mower as light as possible but not lessen its durability. It has quite a few features all accessible standing upright without having to fully extend an arm from the handle like a throttle control lever that facilitates ideling to full throttle to choke/a 5mph-4mph self propulsion speed control lever, self propel engagement/disengagement bail and a blade brake control (roto-stop) bail. There's no way I can fathom a more intuitive, easily manipulates or long lasting control set up than what they have devised. If I missed anything or there's any other specifics that would help just let me know....See MoreBest lawnmower for sloped yard
Comments (8)Steep slopes are not tractor-friendly but if you can push mow what you have, then you can cut it with a tractor by using some simple rules. 1. Always mow either UP or DOWN... 2. Never mow across the slope 3. Never attempt to turn the tractor while ascending or descending a slope. 4. Choose a true garden tractor, not a lawn or yard tractor. 5. Change the rear tires bar tread agricultural or use 2-link chains on your turf tires. 6. Find a dealer locally who can install beet juice in your rear tires. See link below. 7. Buy all the heaviest wheel weights your tractor will accomodate. 8. Make sure you read the Owner's Manual from start to finish before you use the tractor and read it again and again until you thoroughly understand all the safety-related issues. 9. Never mow wet or damp grass. Moisture makes grass slippery. Make sure you understand how to keep your tractor under control by using the brakes and the hydro control. Don't let anyone else cut your grass for you. Slopes are dangerous and not for the novice operator. I suggest that you go see your local John Deere dealer and ask him to send someone knowledgeable to your property to see it first-hand and then make a recommendation as to which model would best suit your needs. Print out this thread and show it to him. This about putting as much weight on the rear tires as you can without changing the balance of weight between the front axle and the rear axle. Therefore, rear-mounted suitcase weights are not the way to go because they make the front end lighter and you want all the steering control you can get. Wheel-weights and the Rim Guard beet juice put the weight where you want it and both of them lower the tractor's center of gravity making it much harder to roll over. But weight must go with traction and that's why you need to have the 2 link tire chains or the Ag bar tread tires. If the dealer says you don't need these items, then tell him to bring the tractor to your home and prove it. Some dealers have really top guys working for them and some have talking heads who tell you waht they think you want to hear. This is nothing to fool with. Garden tractors easily weigh 1000 pounds or more so if you want to run the risk of having one flip on you and then hunt you down as the two of you roll to the bottom of the hill, then be my guest. Tractors like that can kill you or maim you for the rest of your life so you better respect them and follow the rules at all times. Here is a link that might be useful: Rim Guard...See More- 9 years ago
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