Well, a lot of people pick FWD because they think there's some problem involved with the turnaround on a RWD. Nothing could be further from the truth. On a RWD with bail control, you just let go of the bail when approaching the turnaround, push the handle down and pivot on the rear wheels as usual, then push the mower off while you squeeze the bail to resume drive. On a Personal pace, you don't have to do anything special - just pivot and push. RWD is better on a mower because the handle mount location at the rear throws weight to the rear wheels, particularly when bagging and/or going uphill where you need the most help from the drive. FWD mowers frequently spin wheels and wear the tires out because the drive wheels are on the wrong end. You rarely find bald tires on RWD mowers because it's so much more efficient. RWD is almost always mechanically simpler because the FWD must have a more involved power train since there is no place under the front end to hang the reduction box without having an extension of the deck, which would interfere with mowing up to obstacles. Having the deck extension on the rear is no problem, plus it provides a longer wheelbase for better stability. Incidentally, the 'high-wheel' feature of your mower also has no practical use. It will provide a smoother push for the rear end but the regular-size front wheels still have to bump along over irregularities. It would be effective if it had four high-wheels, but of course that's unlikely with a driven mower. So, even though the RWD doesn't have high wheels in back, you aren't giving up anything.

Man I hate to see cultural animus in a lawn site thread but some people just can't help themselves. Anyone driving an Anerican owned (that's right, I didn't say made because for anyone that doesn't know it Toyota has the largest percentage of US sourced parts and labor. Not Ford Chevy and especially not Dodge) can mainly thank Honda for bringing providing us with their superior engineered and produced vehicles that simply forced the US brands to step their game up. Anyone that says with a straight face that they have owned US and Japanese cars and had more issues with the Japanese vehicles is either horribly unlucky or is lying through their teeth. 20y ago there was no comparison between the two, from NVH to the blatant lapse in QC that allowed vehicles with panel gaps so large to leave the manufacturing facility that when one took a 88 Dodge Aries k down the highway it sounded like there was a wind machine blowing in the back seat. Give me a break. The engine tech on Honda machines are superior in myriad areas. They are much quieter, produce less emissions (don't let the fact you don't believe in climate change stop you from worrying about it...), more efficien power production and because of that much,much, much better fuel economy. On my old snapper with a Briggs mower I would seriously have to refuel once during each mowing session (that mower would have been ~14y old if it were still functioning) and now with my ~9y old HRT with the GCV160 I can almost mow my lawn twice before refilling and yea, the tanks has commensurate capacaties. That's almost a 400% gain in fuel economy. Doesn't take a brain surgeon to see that glaring advantage. The Briggs was about as hard to start as you could imagine, that's what caused me to kick it to the curb. The last stint of pulling the starter cable for 5m, foot on the deck sweating my you know what's off sealed the deal ( I'm not a tiny guy either 6'1" 190). My Honda has started first pull everyone in the 5y I have had it and this is a sissy pull pretty much just using my shoulder and arm strength. I'm sure there are some older B&S out thee that are freaks and just won't die that start first pull everytime but the fact is that is the exception and simply not the rule. If there is one weakness of the Honda mower it would be the carb. But if you don't let stale gas gumm it up and properly maintain the machine (IMO anyone that does not maintain their machines according to the factory guidelines should not be allowed the gear pleasure of caring for their lawn, it's ignorance of the highest degree).

Normally, I'd be quite critical of someone hauling an old thread out of the archives and reviving it but your post does fit into the spirit in which this thread began. Ask an Ingersoll dealer and they will tell you about the customer loyalty they enjoy thanks to the durability that is built into every one of these garden tractors. I am not being critical when I say that there is nothing all that unique about your 19 years of experience with your GT. When John (Jack) Ingersoll bought the Outdoor Power Equipment Division belonging to J. I. Case and put his name on it, the slogans used in their advertising went as follows: - Quality in the American tradition - Be in a class by yourself - Ingersoll...Invest in the best - The tractor of a lifetime I would have to say that your experience proves that the above slogans were not an exaggeration in any way. I don't know of another tractor today that uses hydraulic drive, offers a large line of hydraulically powered attachments or still builds their garden tractors without compromise. You invested in the best and it paid off in spades because after 19 years of hard use, you still own a tractor that has value to others. If you amortize what you paid for your tractor over the 19 year period and include the cost of replacement parts, the annual cost of ownership of this fine quality machine is very low. The other bonus is the absence of the aggravation factor that comes with owing an Ingersoll. When other people are having to take the time needed to send their low quality machine in for repair and then pick it up, your Ingersoll was at home and ready to do some more work for you. A "generation" occurs every 20 years and to some, that is a lifetime. Your tractor is still far from being dead even after 19 years so Jack Ingersoll wasn't lying when he said his products were "the tractor of a lifetime". Thanks for providing your first-hand report about a marque that few people have heard of but still "makes them like they used to", only better.

The puck is not visible in the image. The puck is located behind the caliper and in front of the brake disc. You will see the puck after you remove the caliper. Yes, it seems odd indeed. I have mused over this specific situation and I conclude that the unique complaint can only be due to a couple of circumstances. The first one I have already outlined previously in your other thread. The second scenario would be that the entire frame of the tractor is being reshaped during turns because of looseness in frame rivets, or bolts, or screws.......as the case may be. This hypothetical frame reshaping could probably conspire to LENGTHEN the effective brake rod travel when making a left turn (less brake power)......and SHORTEN the effective brake rod travel when making right turns (more brake power). Because there is a "fine line" difference between NO BRAKES and GOOD BRAKES on this mechanical type of disc brake anyhow, just a little difference in the effective length of the brake rod would have a profound overall effect on the stopping power. Study carefully how the frame is put together. Look closely for signs of dry, powdery rust around all the bolts (or whatever is used) that hold the frame together. You might need to wipe around the bolt heads with a clean dry paper towel and then look at the towel to determine if there is any rust (which implies a loose fit condition).