Yes, the blade will turn unless the flywheel has broken free and lost contact with the crankshaft end. Compression has nothing to do with creating spark. It's easier to check for spark with the plug out. If you have fuel, compression and spark, your mower should start. Remove the nut on the flywheel and you should be able to see if the key is sheared. It only has to be off 1/16" and it won't run. See this link: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/lmower/?11080

Hi All, especially mownie Thanks for the info on the hydro stat. You are correct. I did dig out a manual from Toro's website that is more detailed than the mower's ! It says the units do not require fluid's at any interval but should be checked from time to time (oxy-moron) They have conveniently provided a 30 inch garden hose that stands up into the frame for expansion only (when the oil gets hot), but it is only possible to check the level by "removing the entire hydro assembly from the mower chassis ! You are right. Then if the oil is degraded, yes, turn it upside down. My feelings are that the right hydro may have leaked some of it's oil and be low, thus causing the mower to pull to the right. The reason is that the right hydro had some oil discharge under the grass cake. So while I have the engine and belts off, I will remove the hydro assembly and service with the Royal Purple Brand. There is nothing better than taking advice from an expert on such things. Thanks. Okay, here's the update. I managed to get the engine out of the bay today after first removing blade belts, hydro belts, PTO clutch assembly, carb, cables etc. Taking off the sump cover/ crank case cover, I peered inside and could immediately see the exhaust cam lobe touching the cam follower. When I looked at the other cam lobe, it was almost circular ! Pulling the camshaft out and examining, I was floored ! There was hardly any indication that the cam was EVER an oval, as it looked round. I could see minimal burring on the edge, but other that that nothing. I had changed oil after my initial problems started happening 2 weekends ago, and the old oil looked dark, but it was almost a full 48 oz load, so it never got low. The new oil I drained before tearing the engine was golden, BUT there was graphite like sludge at the bottom of the crank case and crank cover. So my cam lobe must have been made of #2 pencil lead ! I've taken plenty of pictures if anyone ever wants to see a worn cam lobe, but have no way of posting to this thread. I may try putting them up on my MobileMe site and list the url for you guys. Thanks for the prompt and accurate responses. You guys rock. I'll order parts tomorrow (or try my local lawn mower repair place to see if they carry), and assemble as soon as I get them. In the meantime, I'll clean the thing up while it's on my garage floor. Lastly - The engine speed governor device isn't exactly obvious to put back - Any pointers? Torq settings on crank and head bolts? is 15 ft/lbs? Any particular order ? The camshaft does have the dot stamped in it, but it wasn't obvious what it lined up with at TDC. I had out the engine at TDC before tearing down, and when I looked at the camshaft, the dot was at about 2 o'clock. Should it have lined up with something else?

"Walt, does the Intek crankshaft and rods use roller bearing journals or is it just a plain bearing (or no bearing) rod journal?? Or is BS just "custom fitting" the mating parts till they "meet clearance specs"" The Intek uses plain bearings through out. (Machined in casting) I do not know why rods and crank are not sold separately. They have a part number but when you go to price/buy them, they are not available. Labor would make no sense custom fitting especially with the automated machining equipment used today. The friend who brought me the engines I checked out, ran into the same thing. It cost him about $220 for the two rods and crankshaft. I have been trying to think of a "dodge". What came to mind was the old auto machine shop where I used to do a lot of business, they bored out rods and fit inserts from Fiat or some other small foreign car. They are long gone but I have been wondering if I could do that. Finding a rod insert with near the proper ID would be the biggest job, I think. I have the equipment but not sure I have the inclination anymore. Walt Conner

On mine (Craftsman LT2000, 18 hp, B&S 31C707 engine) the choke was stuck closed. Raising the choke control up closes the choke, but when the lever was moved down for mowing after warm up, the choke did not open. So it died, smoked, etc. Deciding not to push it open every time, and deciding adding a string control was silly, I added a 25 cent spring from Ace Hardware; there was already a hole in the top part of the choke butterfly shaft, so I drilled a small hole in the reddish plastic housing, and ran the spring to that, works great now. I had read about others shaving down the shaft to make its diameter slightly smaller, but I like my fix better.