@tomplum Yes it has the long intake elbow. Thanks for the manual attachment. I have the same manual although they only go as high as the 7 HP Snow King. There is one available for the 8 HP and higher but I think there would not be a significant difference. I put on a new fuel bowl seal when I rebuilt the carb and adjusted the float. Interesting though. I've read that the 10% Ethanol found in most gasoline today does damage to seals. I have yet to find a gas station that offers gas without the Ethanol. At this point I have two options, replace the carb for about 85.00, or live with it and choke whenever I need to start. I should have mentioned when it's warm and I choke it, as soon as it starts I must move the choke to off position or it will run rough. I think I'll just use it as is, already have too much invested in it. Added the electric start (didn't have one) and rebuilt the auger gear case and new impeller shaft at a cost of 135.00 in parts alone. It was a bear of a job due to rust, something I'd never do again with all the man hours spent.

Somewhat better info. With complete engine #s parts look up MAY tell us for sure what all your parts are. I encourage you to get into the service manual. I would still like to know a few other things. "No varnish or corrosion present as everything has been cleaned with carb cleaner." Well, corrosion doesn't come out w/ standard carb cleaner. The thing to know here is that Tecumseh carbs are not clean up friendly. Water damage is irreversible. "There is a coil underneath the flywheel, with a smaller coil / condensator sitting right next to it. I don't see any points." The only coil that I'm familiar with that is under the flywheel would be the ignition coil. The breakers are under the cover that goes over the crank. Electronic ignition on these are external of the flywheel and no condenser is used. A smaller coil should be the charge coil for the battery. Maybe a light file on the points would help, tho the point and condenser are cheap enough. It should ground when the breakers close. You can simply unhook the condenser for a test. It would probably be old enough not to have the "T" style flywheel key? Which by the way are available in 2 versions that don't interchange. "I have not yet replaced the rubber bowl gasket, don't believe that would kill the engine after 2 seconds." It's like this: A Tecumseh engine will run with an improper bowl seal, yes. Not always well as it changes the environmental rules set by the guy who designed it. A pitted bowl or a deteriorated seal will allow it to lose its e.i. It won't prime properly however, so if you had gotten it started by using carb spray- it would continue to run. "At one time I was able to keep it running with quick start." I do suggest carb spray as a tamer version of quick start. How long did you have it running for? And how long ago was this? Has the machine sat? These are important questions. Look at it this way. If it starts and runs as long as you are directly providing the "fuel"- then you know you have spark and compression. "The alternate carb I tried was from a Sears engine also 5 hp, also Tecumseh. Symptons didn't change." And this engine runs well currently? "The throttle plate is closed just sitting there but when the engine is cranked I see the plate on top move open." This engine will want to start when the throttle plate is open only. I assume this thing has a throttle cable. Maybe do a test and prop the throttle shaft 1/4 or so open and try starting. My responses are getting as long as Mownies- yikes!

Remember: Check oil on a clean wiped dip-stick! If you just pull it out to check it and don't wipe it and dip it again and pull it out, you'll be seeing the oil that was splashed on it during the previous operation of the engine! Especially if an engine that gets run a lot. As for the plastic gears--i don't worry about that kind of stuff--i figger the engineers that designed the plastic gears were much better educated than me, so they did sell a lot of those engines! An, with proper care, Tecumseh engines will last as long as B&S! A guy gave me a used Tecumseh, 10 h.p. engine, Industrial model, for my older Snapper rider. I put it on and it runs great. Been on it 4 years now, and no problems. I bought a Sears tractor, $25, with a cracked frame, put the B&S engine on my big Snapper Hi-vac rider, and it seems very happy there! Neighbor gave me his tractor--blew the engine on it, i installed a used engine-runs and drives! Do i worry about plastic cam gears?? No--no worry!

tomplum: Thanks for the suggestions. Taking them one at a time: (1) There is no leakage at the point where the dipstick tube screws into the cylinder cover. (2) I don't think the engine is over speeding and I believe there is leakage even when I run the engine at less than full throttle but I'll check. (3) The unit was given to me because the owners found they hardly used it -- so engine wear should not be an issue. They did however keep it outdoors, only covered with a tarp, even in winter and it gets pretty cold and snowy here in the Blue Ridge Mountains. So anything is possible. Is there supposed to be a seal around the hole through which the governor "spindle" enters the engine and could it be worn? Or are you saying that under normal circumstances there should not be enough oil pressure to force oil out even without a seal? Thanks a lot for your help.