Hi, guys. Thanks to every one of you for taking the time to give me your advice and explain some stuff in such detail, esp. Kompressor. And I appreciate James' advice on the Sears Craftsman. You didn't hear back from me because the day after my sister and I purchased a lawn tractor, my sister had a double heart bypass. She's coming home today and is in for a long recovery. I'm sure you're all wondering what I finally decided to do and if I took your advice to heart. Well, what you said about buying used ones made sense so I decided not to buy a used one. I felt more comfortable knowing it was new and didn't buy someone else's problem. Sears was having their Family and Friends sale and I was considering the Craftsman YT4000 (James really liked that one) but as it turned out, the YT3000 (Model 28822) had a lot of really good reviews and there was very little difference between it and the YT4000 (28928). YT3000 is 21hp, 4000 is 24 hp 3000 deck is 42", 4000 is 46" 3000 had 3-1/2 star rating, 4000 had 3 3000 was $300 cheaper (+tax) Both have hydrostatic B&S engines The oil can on the 3000 much more easily accessible than on the 4000. 3000 has only 1 cylinder, 4000 has 2 (don't know if that was important or what it means); no hour meter on the 3000 It was on sale from $1750 for $1299 and an additional $130 off - bottom line I paid $1169.00 and saved $600 w/tax so I think I got a really good deal. I've used it twice and so far I love it. Wish the deck were a little bigger, oh well. It cut some very high wet weeds very well (I know I should avoid wet but didn't have a choice unless I wanted to go out there with a scissors...NOT). Its got a lot of power. Now maybe I won't get fined or thrown out of the neighborhood! One of the cons that was mentioned was the position of the gas tank - very close to the engine. Very stupid design. rustyj14, my next project will be to get some fill dirt and remove the stumps (when I get some money) but in the meantime, I put out tons of bright flags from HD and didn't hit any stumps. James, I didn't get to ask about the fuel shutoff valve. What's involved in installing one? One last question - I have 2 weeks to decide whether to buy their $300 3-year warranty. It would start from day 1, not after the mfr's warranty, and it covers in-home service.

None of grandma's fresh baked cookies until this gets fixed! Does it seem as though the brake pedal comes all the way back up? Like maybe the pedal hasn't fully returned after disengaging the park brake? If it does at least roll, best guess is maybe the traction belt hopped off a pulley. If it does not actually roll- maybe the brake caliper or caliper arm is stuck. If you lift one rear corner and turn the tire, it shouldn't freewheel. If it does, you may have a missing /damaged wheel key as shown above. Best of luck.

I have a scotts 2046 (20hp/46 deck) - this information below is found under the seat - it even tells me the age of the unit. Tractor Serial Numbers: GSX2046010750 20V46T DATE: 110698 Says "Deere and company" on the sticker Engine Model number: 406777 Type: 0115E1 I paid $250 for mine - it had a flat tire and some other minor issues. Since it was a John Deere Sabre clone - I felt I was making a relatively safe purchase. I have found my scotts to be very reliable and a comfortable unit (I like it a lot) . 1) I probably would be happy with a smaller engine for fuel consumption purposes (im really cheap) ... A single cylinder would have been fine for my 1 acre of mow-able property (2.5 acres total). But the V-twin is soooo smooth... 2) I wish I had a slightly smaller deck (mines a 46") ... I cant get my scotts through the shed door. Very important for winter storage. Thinking about it - Im not really complaining about the motor - as I use the scotts to pull a lawn cart around with never a problem (fill and firewood). As for power - I have more power than I know what to do with. Heck - most times I mow the lawn with the engine actually idling. Except when Im having company - I might go just above idle for a nicer finish on the lawn. Mine has a hand controlled Hydrostatic on the right side rear fender. Reverse is a bit whimpy - forward is fine. You should check this on your next purchase. Gear drive trannies (in my opinion) are a little less friendly to shift and manipulate when mowing - However they tend to be more durable. A bulletproof hydro tranny equates to a big buck tractor... If you dont have a lot of obstacles then it wont matter much. I must admit I really like the hand controlled hydro tranny - others swear by the foot controlled units. I would not let a hand or a foot operated hydro be a deciding factor in the purchase. (unless of course a disability gets factored into the equation). One bummer for me is that Im having trouble finding a bagger for my unit - I really could use a bagger for fall cleanup. Apparently their in the range of $700 dollars and I only spent 250 on the mower ... So Im still looking for a used bagger. If you think you need a bagger ( then know it up front ) as finding one later could be a problem. Another thing - you should note these units are not industrial strength GARDEN TRACTORS and putting them through hard labor; such as towing stone up and down the yard isnt something they were designed for (unless you have a level property - i dont). For example I move a lot of stone on my sloping property - I use an old Sears rider with a 5-speed gear tranny for that type of work. With the idea that I dont want to burn up the hydro pulling big weight around - I probably would be fine, but I like the little 10hp sears for this type of work for some reason. I think you found a decent deal, and with your back problems you will immediately appreciate a riding mower. Regardless of your decision, good luck to you - and happy mowing. Dave

The gas cap vent is in the gas cap. Look for a small hole somewhere (on the outside of cap and on the inside of cap). But if the engine still will not restart after having sat over night, or after the gas cap was removed from the tank (and put back on).........................then there is reason to suspect a problem with the fuel pump. The presence of fuel in a clear fuel filter in no way signifies that the fuel pump is (or is not) working. To test the fuel pump you will need to remove the fuel hose where it connects to the carburetor and insert the open end of the hose into a clear plastic beverage bottle. Have a helper crank the engine while you observe whether any fuel is being spurted into the bottle. If you do not see a series of rapid pulses of fuel being delivered to the bottle...........there is a problem with the fuel pump. If this turns out to be the case, don't just rush out to buy a new pump until you have examined the fuel pump vacuum hose for splits or for being loose on its nipple. The vacuum hose runs from the pump over to a nipple on the engine (usually on a valve cover). Anyhow, the action you have been doing with the choke to keep the engine running merely confirms that the engine is suffering from a deficit of fuel.