Pull cord jerks when starting
malibuster
13 years ago
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canguy
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Pull cord will not pull
Comments (2)First, check the oil. If oil level is okay or even close, its probably not an oil-related failure. If no oil, shoot the mower. Assuming oil is present, now look under the housing to see if the blade is bent and is stuck on the housing. Note: always raise the side of the mower with the air filter. Now if recently you raised the oil fill side of the mower for some reason, its possible that oil entered the combustion chamber and locked it up. Take out the spark plug and see if it pulls through. If it does, it will blow out most of the oil. At that point, if it has a pleated air filter, you'll probably find that to be oil-soaked, so replace it. Now you can put the spark plug back in and start the mower - it will smoke for several minutes as the oil burns off. Let's say you removed the spark plug but it still would not turn, and the blade isn't hitting anything. The next thing to check is the engine brake. When you hold the engine brake bail to start and run, it releases a flywheel brake so the engine can run. A broken cable will not release the brake. Look while some else works the brake bail to see if the lever is moving under the flywheel. Another thing I would do is to take the spark plug wire off the spark plug and ground it or secure it so it doesn't get near the spark plug. Put on a pair of work gloves. Raise the mower deck, grab the blade and see if you can force it to move in either direction. If the blade will go only in one direction but feels very 'free', then stops like its hitting something, you have a broken engine (connecting rod). If it won't budge in either direction, the piston is 'frozen' in the cylinder and the engine is history. I think that's enough for now. Let us know what happens....See MoreHusqvarna 165 BT blower HARD to pull cord
Comments (2)Try remove the pull start assemble and pull to make sure the starter is work fine. It should be very easy to remove since it is a full crank. What you discribe is strange. Only time it feel high compression is when you somehow have fuel in the cylinder. But if that is true, the engine is way flooded and you won't be able to start that easily even if you pull slowly first. Besides, assuming it sit upright during storage and fuel would not move up to the cylinder. Check the starter first.........Or are you getting old??!!........Just kidding!!!...See MoreRetrofitting backup pull-start to B&S engines
Comments (13)E-bay purchases don't worry me. I got the Snapper for a decent price and was aware of it's age. In fact I've spent about 4 hours pouring over E-bay, Craigslist, the B&S site, and some other sites for cross-referencing. That the seller is offering me $150 back is exceedingly fair, IMO. In a way, I'm fortunate that it happened this soon so that he's inclined to give me a partial refund. I certainly wouldn't expect him to do that next April. The engine I'm replacing is model 28M707 type 1026 (electric start & recoil back-up). One of the replacements I'm looking at is model 31B707 type 0005 (electric and recoil but the muffler is missing) and the other is model 31C707 type 0026 (electric only but complete) and listed as a "universal replacement" All of them (including the one that died) are 1" D x 3 5/32" L shaft with 7/16"-20 keyslot. I would take a guess that the recoil start from the dead 28M707 won't fit either of the prospective replacements, but possibly I could purchase the recoil assembly that the 31B707 uses and attach it to the 31C707? BTW, the Briggs replacement manual says that the engine "type" (which is a 4 digit or 4-dash-2 digit number) refers to "...engines mechanical parts, color of paint, decals, governed speed, and Original Equipment Manufacturer". Which is all pleasantly vague....Is there a breakdown what each of the numbers stands for posted anywhere? And since I'm slightly too tired to look it up right now, how much would the muffler for the 31B707 cost and what's the part #?...See Morewheels jerk to the right when car shifts into 2nd gear
Comments (7)earthworm, that's what my step-dad told me. granted, i don't know much about cars so he could be giving me the condensed version. when i had the wheels aligned, hibdon did tell me that one of the control arms had to be replaced. guess i forgot to mention that in my initial post. why do you say gm must service it? the dealer handles mitsubishis and daewoos. mine is the mid-range daewoo, which is now sold as a mitsubishi, correct? does that make mitsubishi part of gm? i don't keep up with who owns whom..... my mom, after talking to my step-dad, thinks this is due to my tendency to like curvy roads. i don't run them for fun (anymore) but i'm not afraid of taking a corner or curve faster than some people. something about the daewoo minimizes curves. i've noticed the curves feel a *whole* lot faster in my step-dad's little old camry than they did in the daewoo. so is the culprit my driving, or maybe just the design of the car? my mom pointed out that she's never had this particular problem, even on a car she drove for 100,000 miles (mine only has 56,000). but i drove much more recklessly much more often in my first car (hey, i was in high school), an '88 chevy cavalier, and never had any problems with the steering or alignment. sure, the cavalier ate starters for breakfast, but it endured potholes and fast driving on "fun" roads much better than the daewoo apparently has. guess i'll have to start taking the corners like a granny. *sigh*...See More1saxman
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13 years ago1saxman
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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