Yeah... Mine starts and then cuts right back off. What I figured out about that is, you have to go get a huge concrete block and repeatedly smash it... well, just anywhere around the top until it's worthless... well, that because these 300 series are a worthless Fn rip off. I hate this hunk of crap. Now I get to go buy another mower!!!! F this piece of weedeater JUNK!

It sounds like you and the repairman are missing something worn or broken in the drive train (from clutch to head). I see you have verified most or all needed item items to be in working conditions. My suggestions: 1. Remove the shaft and cable to the trimmer's head. Start the trimmer and add resistance with a wooden rod. Check the square shaft connection close (on shaft, in clutch) for wear and torque with the wooden rod. Verify you have torque going to the head by pressing against the rod with it running. 2. If the power at the head and clutch tested OK. Manually test the cable and string head by forcing resistance between the two (vise and hands or vise-grips and hands). 3. If the cable and string's head checks OK. Make cure the cable is seated in the clutch and string heads. With manual torque if a small screw driver or etc will let you hold the clutch and manually torq head. Good Luck, loger PS. Post pics of possible problems if needed.

First thing is to do a soil test. The recommended test cost $25 at Logan Labs in Ohio. Post your results here to get a custom analysis and recommendation. Then decide how you want to proceed. If you want to sod now, kill everything with glyphosate, water for 1 week, then kill what grows again with glyphosate. **If you are going to sod Zoysia, do a 3rd round of watering and glypho. If you are going to sod bermuda just the 1st 2 rounds are enough. Another option is to kill the weeds with Celsius and Sulfo, then wait and see. Water your lawn like was new sod and see how much bermuda you can grow in the next month. It won't be much, if anything but at least give it a chance. Bermuda is very resilient, you may think it's gone, but it's not. If you have tall weeds they will simply shade out the bermuda. Getting rid of the weed competition may open the door for some of you bermuda to return. You should have a good sense of how much bermuda remains late Spring/early Summer. No matter what path you choose you will need to start a good pre-emergent routine NOW to ward of Winter weeds and continue the pre-emergent routine for the rest of you life. Prodiamine Sulfo Celsius

This plant has a very deep and widespreading root system........the plants in your neighbor's garden are related/attached by roots to those in your garden. Unless your neighbor works to eliminate the problem in his garden, you will continue to battle the problem in yours. Digging and removing what roots you can find can help and will not encourage spreading. But removal of ALL top growth as it appears is better. Without an ability to photosynthesize (or produce the spore producing fertile stalks), the roots eventually weaken and die off....at least in that area. Equisetum has a high silica content and this is what resists herbicides. If you cut the plants back and then apply a strong herbicide (not vinegar - it will have virtually no effect) to the cut stems, it will be translocated down into the root system. But again, this is not a one time shot - you must continue to do this when you see any growing stems. Persistence is the key here :-) You will never fully succeed in eliminating a plant that has been around for 30 million years but persistence and determination can keep it under control and out of your growing areas.