Check under the seat. If the battery is under the seat, you may be able to take out the battery, remove the battery box (it holds the battery in place. Then see if the fan assembly is visible. Most lawn tractors, but not all, have the battery in the back under the seat. Some fans are held on the transmission input shaft by a snap-ring. This requires a special tool to remove itt. When it is removed, the fan should lift up to be removed. This job should be done carefully, since the accidental loss of any small parts will surely blow yer top off! RJ

Well now, just because the PTO "stays engaged all the time" does not necessarily mean that the PTO clutch is actually "electrically energized". If the PTO clutch bearing seizes, or if the clutch plates have become stuck together, the clutch might be "engaged" mechanically. If............the clutch is really being engaged electrically in the manner you describe, you should be able to hear the clutch "snap" into engagement when you turn the key switch ON & OFF, or, by getting under the chassis and unplugging the clutch wire connector while the key is ON (engine not running off course). If you here the clutch engage as you plug and unplug the clutch wire connector or turn the key ON & Off (with PTO switch OFF) then someone might have tampered with the wiring at some time in the past. But if you DO NOT hear any click of engagement, then the clutch may be locked mechanically due to a defect as I mentioned above. To check for the clutch being locked mechanically, try to turn the clutch by hand with the engine OFF. If you are unable to turn the clutch in this fashion, the clutch might be locked mechanically. Top confirm if the clutch is locked mechanically, unplug the clutch wire connector and try starting the engine (but not while you are under there). If the blades are turning with the engine, the clutch is locked mechanically. Some clutches have a replaceable bearing while others do not. The presence of a snap ring next to the bearing indicates a replaceable bearing. If the bearing is "staked in place", non replaceable. This machine sounds as if it is not your personal machine ("This is a mower we use at my son's ball field."), so the possibility someone has surreptitiously monkeyed with wiring could be very valid. If you want to proceed with some testing, please create your own new thread on this issue. I think this thread has been hijacked enough. A new thread will keep everybody separated.

The seat switch isn't in the crank circuit, so you don't have to worry about being in the seat for the SOLENOID tests. Basically, jumping 12V to the SMALL solenoid terminal should result in the solenoid engaging and the starter motor cranking. You are bypassing ALL switches (in the crank circuit) when you do this. Clicking indicates a couple different possibilities- 1. Battery low- As soon as the starter motor engages, it pulls down the voltage enough that the solenoid "drops out". Since the starter isn't trying to turn any more, voltage jumps back up and the solenoid re-engages. Repeat with a "machine gun effect" of rapid clicking. I'd really suggest getting the battery charged and LOAD tested. Autozone and similar places will do a free load test in hopes of selling you a battery. 2. BAD connection in the crank circuit. This is basically your "heavy gauge" battery cables & connections + the ground circuit, which includes engine mounting bolts being tight etc. 3. Possibly a bad solenoid? With your volt meter hooked across the 2 large solenoid studs (it'll read 12V), jump 12V to the small solenoid terminal. IF the solenoid is switching internally like it should, the Volt meter should drop to near ZERO. This is because the voltage is traveling through the "switch". IF the solenoid CLICKS, but does not crank, observe the Volt Meter. IF it shows 12V, it means the internal switch is bad and the voltage is trying to travel through the meter.

Hi I'm Stephanie. I don't know much about tractors or how to work on them but I'm always up to learn. My father has always Been a lover of cub cadets, and has 6 different kinds/models. He has always dreamed about having them all running and in good condition. He recently has been diagnosed with cancer and has had multiple surgeries and is in due time going to have to have chemo and radiation. He doesn't have the time or money to restore them or even get them running now. He has talked briefly about selling them all and how his dream has faded. I don't want that to happen. I am on a fixed income myself and want to try to help my father in any way. Tractors are the way. Most of them just need the ups, the points set and new condensers. I can do it but I just don't know what the points need set to so I don't do it wrong and burn them up. The condenser doesn't look too hard to accomplish. And I can remove the spark plug with ease. His model 1200 also needs the coils put back on which I'm afraid I don't know how to do either. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!