Hi Ya Measure twice, With your price range, you're firmly in the "used" market for a decent machine. Machines with a chipper blade and a drum of flails is the best bet. You can chip the branches until you're holding a handful of sticks, then toss them into the flail shredder. Here's some options - BCS BIO-100 chipper. This is my machine. It can be bought as a stand-alone machine with its own 8 horse engine or as an attachment for a walk-behind tractor. It is actually built by Caravaggi - an Italian company. I've seen a couple on eBay that went unsold with a starting bid of $600. They aren't as well known as some other brands but are the best on the market *wink at Kompressor*. You SHOULD pay over a grand even for a used one, but might be able to sneak one off eBay or Craigslist for under $500 Troy Bilt Super Tomahawk with 8 hp Briggs. The Troy Bilt's of the 80's and 90's are super machines. I had one before my BCS BIO100. Forget about today's machines. Parts are no longer available through MTD, so you need to have a little sense when it comes to shopping for parts. For example - scam artists sell the $12 bearings on eBay for $40 or $50. A good, used Super Tomahawk will set you back $200 to $600. MacKissic is a brand that has been highly lauded on here, but I have no experience with them. The look like a well built machine. Bearcat is another brand that is talked about alot on here and looks like a good machine. There are several other brands out there - Kemp, WW grinder, Lindig, Roto-Hoe. As long as it has the chipper and separate flail shredder, it SHOULD be a decent machine. Good luck Here is a link that might be useful: BCS BIO100 that didn't sell on ebay

Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

>>Please correct me if I'm wrong. As long as the total horizontal distance from point A to point B is less than 84 ft, then there shouldn't be a problem with drainage to the septic tank. By total horizontal distance I mean the point where the fixture's exit pipe (term?) begins horizontal travel under the floor joists, includes any bends (due to obstructions such as piers,ducts, whatever) and ends at the juncture with the 3" pipe.If I understand your question correctly you are asking whether you understand the 1/4" rule correctly and I believe you do. You have 21" of drop between your (planned) toilet connection and the point where the run will join with the septic's pipe as it enters the house. As long as the run does not exceed ~84 feet you'll have the required drainage. And of course you could be closer than 84' and simply lower the toilet connection. Right? Good luck, M

Have you tried channel lock pliers "on end"? Now THAT is ringing a bell! Normal Channel-Locks have too-beefy jaws, but, IIRC a family member has a pair of "tapered" channel-lock type pliers with much thinner than typical jaws... (wish I knew the proper name and orginal purpose, LOL)... pretty sure that's what I used, back when. Either that, or there's this Koozie soda can collar with HARD INSERT I've been eyeballing for possible "DREMEL-ation"... looks about the right diameter... ;') I'm thinking 2" dia. thin-wall PVC w/ 6 equally spaced notches 'round the perimeter would do it too. Patent claim, lol. Wonder if there's a $2 version of what I need at Ye Olde Plumbing Supply Shoppe? PS: I have a basin/faucet wrench--brilliant design, indispensible! Do I understand you need the same thing, but able latch on to a larger diameter collar?