So, if you mean that a pin was put in the blade driver assy- that would not be a correct repair. The key is part of the driver- so the correct repair would be to replace the hub in that case. What I meant regarding being comfortable with what has been done is this: Most people don't do this stuff every day. They know as an example that the flywheel key is sheared and replace they key but don't know as an example that Tecumseh has several different flywheel keys- a couple that really could be interchanged yet still be wrong. I've also seen flywheels that were not tightened as should be and the key re-shears. Question may also be, does the guy at Ace do better at paint than small engines? Kudos for doing research in online manuals and seeking advise. My thought would be to get a new blade driver and re-secure the blade. You may find that the engine is simply flooded yet from being tipped etc. If all seems good and it still won't run, re- approach the flywheel key.

Bill - thanks- sorry for the delayed reply. I know it doesn't sound logical but,yes, I replace the air filter at the beginning of the 2 uses per season - just to make sure I;m not "choking' off any air flow.. The fuel line is new (synthetic 1/4 inch fuel line SAE standard ) and installed in 2012 - so there is not much chance its causing a problem. The battery i was just tested again and found to be delivering its full rated amperage and voltage after being charged by the alternator, I'm curious now about the needle and seat you mentioned - I don't think i have ever replaced it. Do you recommend replacement? Thanks again for your response

We finally got the parts and the time to do the repair - only took us a month! Double checked that there were no stray bits of debris and thoroughly cleaned off the old head gasket, etc. Installed the new carb, cylinder assembly and push rod. Double-checked that the rods didn't get mixed up, set the valves to about .004", put on the valve cover with a new gasket and changed the oil. Nervously turned the key and - nothing! Checked the battery and it was almost completely flat. Hooked it up to the charger, which said it had an internal shorted cell and refused to charge it. Took it of the tractor and tried again, same result Went out and got a new battery (340 CCA), checked it was fully charged, hooked it up and even more nervously turned the key. This time the flywheel turned about a quarter turn or so and was followed by a rapid clicking, possibly from the general area of the solenoid. Tried a couple more times with the same result. Flywheel turns OK by hand. Any suggestions what to check next? And thanks again for past and future help with this. This post was edited by lgslgs on Wed, May 22, 13 at 22:31

In lieu of using an "impact wrench", you can sometimes "improvise". This works best if you use a "6 point" boxed end wrench (instead of a 12 point) of the correct size to fit the PTO mounting bolt. Place the boxed end wrench on the PTO bolt and hold it in place with a gloved hand (or prop a short length of 2 X 4 between the wrench and the ground, under the bolt) so the wrench can't fall off. Position the wrench so you can strike the shank (or handle) of the wrench with a hammer about 2 to three inches out from the bolt. Striking at this point will give greater acceleration at the bolt than if you strike the outer end of the wrench. It might require that you give it a couple of "practice swings" before you take a real swing at it. This is a technique that most mechanics have used (though some might not want to admit it). This trick can be used to tighten fasteners as well (but don't get too carried away as you can overtighten easily). Also a "pull handle" with a socket can be used instead of a box wrench. DO NOT use a ratchet handle for this because the impact and acceleration imparted by the hammer strike can/will damage the pawl in the ratchet head.