Hey folks I have good news! I resolved the issue and I wish I would have done this about twenty five flywheel removals ago. The stinking flyweight is malfunctioning to not allow the running leg to kick in. It must have been stuck or something Its hard to say when you cant see it in action. Luckily I have spare parts for these things. I put a different one on and off she went. So looking at the bad one it really looks identical to the other, I just don't know if it was the flyweight or the cam. I had it installed with the smaller end toward the key way and the movement was free of grease and dirt. I just don't get it. Anyway its running good and I took an old gov spring, streched it out about half an inch and I have now achieved 3000 RPM on this machine finally. Alot of trial and error but a great learning experience. I realize most people don't care too much about these old point ignition engines but they sure are fun to restore and work on. Thanks again, Walt ,Jim in VT, and Mike for the help, I know we would have found something Jim, you were on the right path. Thanks, Neal in Kansas

Steve, you should push it to the corner of your driveway, so I can have it, then you can go out and buy a brand new mower! JUST KIDDIN'! Congrats on your mower! Is it your first LB? There are several LB fans here that wouldn't trade them or sell them off for anything, especially now since they're no longer made. It's amazing how well a 30 year old mower can still run and handle,almost like it's 3 years old! Like Walt said, those years had an aluminum tag riveted to the deck usually between the rear wheels. Later on, they used an aluminum backed sticker tags sometimes towards the right rear wheel, and some on the left side back at the rear wheel. Unless the deck had been reconditioned, those tags generally will still be visible. I'm actually getting ready to totally recondition one of mine with all new engine parts and powder coating the deck, new wheels etc. All my other LB's ran forever and well enough never for me really get the desire to do this, just something to do! This mower will no doubt be around long enough for me to end my mowing chores as an old man.

Okay, the air vane is the white 'flag' that extends into the air shroud. At it's base is a thin collar with a knurled edge. Under the collar should be the end of the governor spring, which must be attached to the sliding member on top of the air filter box. The manual throttle moves the sliding member and tightens or loosens the governor spring to provide varying engine speeds. Assuming this is all connected properly, remove the air filter element (with engine off) and observe the throttle plate. It must be in the wide-open position. Gently move the air vane to the left and release it - it must be completly free to move and must instantly return to the wide-open position when released (the throttle plate is attached to the air vane). If the throttle plate is not in the wide-open position, turn the adjusting collar clockwise (it clicks) until it is. Once you get it started, you can adjust the collar for more or less RPM. There may be other problems but check this first.

I know - its the kind of thing I like to do too. Sounds like the deck is okay. I would keep on using it. CD pack failures are irritating, but when you consider that most people have to buy a new mower long before 9 years, it seems very cheap to operate. Even if you have put new wheels and axles on at about the same frequency as the CD packs, you really are not spending any money on it. And, you can still find the rear-bagging kits and deck plates (blank for discharging, blocked for mulching). Other things you may encounter after such long service are crankshaft end seals popping out or just leaking, the need to rebuild the carb and carbon build-up in the exhaust ports and muffler. I always recommend adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas in addition to your regular oil mix as well as the use of a fuel stabilizer. If you use Ethanol-blended fuel, get the Stabil Marine for Ethanol Fuels. All engines like MMO, in particular the 2-cycles.