Newer blades that have the rolled edges in the center do not require the stiffener. I have never tried it but I doubt a stiffener will even fit over them properly. Walt Conner

'Pull the plug out and try pulling the rope to clear the cylinder of oil if you had it tipped over for any length of time' The 10201 is a 2-cycle with 'V' engine. Going back to the first post, there should be no reason to pull the flywheel. Remove the spark plug and set aside. Tie down the safety bail to the handle. Tilt the mower up and try to rotate the blade, which at this point should spin rather easily. If it doesn't, the brake may be on as already mentioned, or the engine may be damaged. If it does spin, the brake is off and the engine is not seized. Replace the spark plug and proceed to replace the faulty components of the recoil starter. There's one other possibility with this model - the fasteners may have loosened in any area of the engine, like the muffler screws, the muffler plate screws under the muffler baffle or the screws holding the shroud base to the engine. For various reasons, some of these conditions could jam the starter or blade. Check every fastener including the engine mounting bolts at the beginning of each season.

Snatch it up! Don't let her get away. Any commercial is a good find in lawnboy land. Neal

I can't remember exactly what model I took the recoil off of. It was a S21ZPN or something like that. You need the recoil, starter cup and maybe 12-16 small flatwashers for each screw to get the proper clearance away from the top of the cup from the bottom of the recoil. If you don't use the fuel tank, you'll have to snip the plastic ear tabs off of the stock tank so the new style recoil lays flush. The set up works well for me and should for you as well. Here is a link that might be useful: