briggs and stratton flywheel
mary_beach_fairy
16 years ago
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mary_beach_fairy
16 years agowalt2002
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Briggs and Stratton 14.5 H.P. shearing flywheel key
Comments (13)Hi I have a 9hp B&S vertical shaft model 28B702 engine. I recently replaced the flywheel with a used geared one so I could add a starter to it. I sheared a couple of flywheel keys until I noted a torque of 80 ft. lbs was needed, I did that but today while starting it backfired a couple of times and now will not start. So I need to pull the flywheel and change the key again I guess. I also did not pay attention to the Delieve washer but noted someone mention it had to be dish side down. I think 80 ft. lbs should be okay, but I think I saw somewhere it my be up to 100 ft. lbs torque. Thats quite a bit of torque I don't think I can handle that as I have shoulder issues. I"ll try the 80-85 ft. lbs first and hopefully it stays torqued. Could it be that the used flywheel need lapping so it fits tighter to the shaft? I cleaned the shaft and flywheel hole with some brake cleaner so it should grab better. Thanks for any suggestions Hugo 138...See MoreMurray 405002x8 B&S 28V707
Comments (10)***"Not to mention that I couldn't even find a owner's manual online!"*** Surely you jest. Click the link below. When the Briggs site opens, go about 1/2 way down the page and find the large magnifying glass. To the right of that is a line requesting you to "Enter engine model number". Type in the model number like this: 28V707-1113-E1 and then click the small black & white magnifying glass icon to the right end of the line. Next you will be presented with a list of choices for manuals. Choose the first 2 (IPL, and owners manual). You may have to do each manual selection as a separate operation. When the manual downloads, save a copy to your computer and then do the same for the second one. You can e-mail me for a copy of a service manual that will cover a bunch of Briggs engines, including yours. But I can tell you that Briggs engines showing symptoms of the infamous KLUNKS SYNDROME are not good candidates for repair, even by seasoned professionals. Engine replacement is a more viable route. My best guess is the previous owner ran it low of oil. The piston seized to the cylinder walls and caused the connecting rod to break.....OR.....the connecting rod seized to the crankshaft......causing the connecting rod to break. So you are probably going to find a bunch of little broken pieces of metal, along with a few big broken pieces of metal. Here is a link that might be useful: This jest in!...See MoreBriggs & Stratton 42A707 starting issues
Comments (14)Walt, thank you so much for taking the time to think this through and write about it in detail. I drove to Springfield today in hopes of talking to a mechanic at a huge power equiment business there that is well known for parts and service...unfortunately it has closed and there is no "we've moved to..." sign. This economy is killing everyone. Oh well...sleuthing with you all, I guess! :) Anyhow, to answer some of your comments, I have run two tanks with SeaFoam but seen no improvement since using it. I have a stupid qustion regarding the ground for the battery...I only see the two main battery cables (pos. and neg.) and then they lead underneath the battery compartment/seat area to places unknown and impossible to see or get to without removing the entire metal cover for the mower. I've had experience dealing with battery problems on my pick up truck and I know there was a separate ground wire that was attached with the negative cable for my truck but I don't see a separate ground for this machine. Is it bundled with the negative cable? When I removed the battery from it's compartment, I still can't see where the cables lead (although I saw a white plastic flywheel of some sort under the battery area, what the heck is that?? Just curious!) Is there any way to get to any of this stuff without removing the mowers metal cover? I was going to remove the starter and take it to a mechanic to test it but couldn't figure out how to get it off the motor. I asked a neighbor who rolled his eyes and said "It's only 3 bolts!" but when he looked at it, he couldn't figure out how to get it off there either (made me feel better...the little eye-roller!) Regarding your comment: IF you have a GOOD set of jumper cables, jump directly from the batter to the starter as you said you did with the charger and see what happens. The contacts of the starter solenoid that you hear clicking may be burned until they do not conduct enough current anymore. By passing as above may help tell if this is a problem but would need more checking. I have a good set of automobile jumper cables..I can definitely try this and see what happens. I'll continue to post if I have any luck with this. I think it might be time to junk it and get something new but I really, really hate doing that. I'd rather fix it if it's possible and cost-effective. It's a shame that this engine has a history of this problem yet Briggs&Stratton never dealt with or addressed it. Oh one last thing, would a bigger/stronger battery help in any way or not since you said the starter is maxed out when conditions are ideal? Thanks again!...See MoreOld Briggs and Stratton push rotary mower 1967
Comments (2)The recoil starter pawl device is called a starter clutch. The starter clutch is threaded to the crankshaft and must be un screwed to remove. Special tools were developed to accomplish removal. If you do not have the special tools, here is one method. Disconnect the sparkplug. Insert a wood board in the blade area to keep the crankshaft from turning. Use a large pair of locking pliers to unscrew the starter clutch. Grip on the screw holes that the grass screen is attached to. Rotate to the left to remove. After this is removed, the puller can be used to remove the flywheel. Protect the crankshaft extension so that it is not deformed....See Moremary_beach_fairy
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