I've used Toro 22040's in my lawn care business for 15 ears. The trany/drive system is probably similiar if not identical to the commercial mowers. If they weren't problem free workhorses, I would not have kept making the same mistake for 15 years Here are the secrets to the rear wheel miseries on Toros. 1. USE ONLY Marine Grade grease on the rear wheel height adjuster grease zerks. You will be amazed at how something so simple can make such a dramatic performance difference. I found out accidentally when I grabbed the grease gun for the outboard by mistake. Causes of Rear Wheel Slippage. 1. The pinion gear is worn down. They are softer metal than the geared wheel rim. They are supposed to wear down because they are easier and cheaper to replace than the wheel rim itself. You probably don't have split rims which are on the commercials. Or, you allowed a worn pinion gear to grind to long on the geared wheel half and now both need to be replaced. 2. The drive shaft is slotted for a key. The key is rounded over OR you have been using the machine in muddy conditions and the slot is filled with mud, the spring under the key is broken or compressed with aforementioned mud and you haven't been giving the wheel a shot of grease after using it in the mud. The drive shaft is designed so that when grease is pumped into the zerk, the dirt and gunk is washed out of the keyway. Clean the keyway, buy a new spring and key reinstall and give it a few pumps of grease. 3. You been grinding away so long that the keyway on the drive shaft has been wallowed out and the key now sits sideways more or less and doesn't catch the pinion gear. 4. You disassembled the wheel, removed the pinion gear and reinstalled the pinion gear backwards. Yes, there is a right way and a wrong way for the pinion gear to go on. 5. The e-clip that holds the pinion gear in place is missing and has been chewed up by the pinion gear and geared wheel half. 6. And finally, from the symptoms you have provided either the roller bearing or needle bearing or both is shot. When ever you have excessive play either side to side or it looks like the rear wheel drops down when you lift the rear of the mower up, this is what you problem is. The rear wheel adjuster ran about 40.00 bucks the last time I checked but they are easily and cheaply rebuilt by punching the bearings out, taking them to a bearing shop and getting non Toro bagged bearings for under 8 bucks. You don't need a press to get them back in. Just a vice, small hammer and the old needle bearing to use a a seat to get the new one in. the roller bearing can just be hammered in with a piece of wood flush with the adjuster. You will also need a split ring pliers to remove the adjuster

if tractor has gotten rained on, may be that park brake mechanism (located right on transaxle) may have rusted/frozen up. And, most all L&G tractors will not do well if left out in the weather - things like above and corrosion at electrical connections/switches happen quickly. They are not designed/mfg'd like an automobile.

The Toro’s transmission in the video (at address below) did not appear to be half as hard to remove and service as the one that we serviced due to the “Access Cover”. The cover allows you to see the mounting orientation vs working from the bottom. This was a wakeup call that my concentration was slipping vs being as steady on remembering and easily seeing new configurations. I respected that warning that it was time to pass on some projects vs allowing them to be frustrating and too time consuming.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I did add a zerk grease fitting before packing the gear box since grease was below the gears. The sealed bearing was the problem in the gear box. It had dried deteriorated grease and too much resistance. The sealed gear was not damaged when I later opened, examined and greased the bearing (that appeared to have powder in it). The wheels on the Toro we worked on were w/o zerks and needed help. Working Well Today! Hopefully he adjusted the front wheels which appeared to be the need. https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=AwrSbDaBBh9VKGcAP0VXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzMXBjZGFoBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDVklQMjI3XzEEc2VjA3Nj?p=The+20017+Had+a+Toro+Recall+On+the+Transmission&fr=att-ie8

How is there not a class action lawsuit against these pieces of crap??? Mine has worked mediocrely for 4 years till the left rear axle broke!!! Evidently this is a common problem as well!!! I pay almost$200 for the axle kit that came with new seals and 20-50 oil and after 15 minutes it won't move!!! Husqvarna!!! Proof that Sweden is only good for porn and smoked fish!!! I saw where someone is selling kits for this swap but they cost what I paid for this POS new!!!