'Pull the plug out and try pulling the rope to clear the cylinder of oil if you had it tipped over for any length of time' The 10201 is a 2-cycle with 'V' engine. Going back to the first post, there should be no reason to pull the flywheel. Remove the spark plug and set aside. Tie down the safety bail to the handle. Tilt the mower up and try to rotate the blade, which at this point should spin rather easily. If it doesn't, the brake may be on as already mentioned, or the engine may be damaged. If it does spin, the brake is off and the engine is not seized. Replace the spark plug and proceed to replace the faulty components of the recoil starter. There's one other possibility with this model - the fasteners may have loosened in any area of the engine, like the muffler screws, the muffler plate screws under the muffler baffle or the screws holding the shroud base to the engine. For various reasons, some of these conditions could jam the starter or blade. Check every fastener including the engine mounting bolts at the beginning of each season.

Isn't there some kind of flywheel brake or something? Or does it continue to run after the brake is on the flywheel? Maybe there is no brake as I have never seen one. There has to be something to stop the blade.

Hey, Saxman, speaking of automobiles, I am so old that I remember thinking that it was a very bad idea when, just before World War II they quite putting the receptacle for hand cranks on cars. With the arthritis I am beginning to have in my shoulders and wrists, my next lawnmower, if I ever get another one, will probably be an electric start. With the electric start feature, you would not necessarily need a blade brake clutch feature, which I have never had on a mower anyway. My present lawnmower, which is equipped with one of those Honda 160 GCV engines, was purchased in 2000, and has been used between 55 and 65 hours a year. I use it year round, cleaning up leaves, etc. during the winter months. I just changed the oil last month, at the 55 hour mark on the hour meter. It has never used any oil in a one year oil change interval, using Mobil 1 5W30 oil, for the last six and a half years. It is a Sears Craftsman mower, with front wheel drive, and other things besides the engine have required some maintenance. I have replaced all four wheels; the two rear wheels split apart, and the two front wheels wore off smooth and lost traction. About the same time I was replacing the wheels, the transmission wore out. I replaced it, $75, with the current replacement design which looked different, but the attachment points were the same and it works just fine. While I had it apart, I also replaced the drive belt. In the past, I would have thrown out a mower that required these repairs, but I am retired now, and have plenty of time to work on my OPE. I want to see just how long this consumer grade Honda engine will last, given once a year oil changes.

De-glaze or "Hone" same meaning. Yes that is exactly what you should do if it needs it. The cylinder walls will be a black stainish color if there is a "glaze" to remove. I've opened up twenty year old engines and found cross hatch still visible with nice clean walls. Thats the beauty of steel lined cylinder walls. I was just cautioning you to not get out of hand with the hone. just enough to clean it up, not bore it out. You say it runs great, then why buy a overhaul kit? Don't buy some aftermarket kit because then you'll have a piston and rings made in Taiwan or something unless thats what you want. New pistons and etc are still available through Toro but be prepared to shell out some cash. I would keep that piston if its in good shape, meaning no scuffs or scratches as its a genuine OMC part. If you really want just replace the rings thats probably all it would need. Mabe get some new seals and a reed valve. Re-kit the carb and walla new mower under $30. But its you're machine you should do what you want. I'm just trying to save you a bunch of work. But then again total teardowns are good learning, especially when you over torque a rod bolt and throw it about twenty minutes into setting you're new rings and totally destroying the engine and casing and all that work, time and money. Have fun and we'll be here if you need. Neal