Keep it well drained. I notice you have the flower pot in another pot. Make sure the flower pot has a hole in the bottom and that it is open. Then put some gravel under the flower pot so that water that comes out of the flower pot flows clear of the hole in the bottom. The hole in the bottom of the flower pot must me kept open to air. It looks like it could be repotted into a wider shallow pot (azalea pot). If you do repot, make sure you use azalea soil. It is acidic. If you can't get acidic soil, use a good garden soil and add powdered sulfur. For a liter of garden soil with a pH of 7.5 you would use 140 grams of sulfur to adjust the pH to 5.5 which is ideal for azaleas. (That would be 4.5 ounces of sulfur per quart of garden soil) The link at the bottom is an excellent description of how to keep florist azaleas alive. Here is a link that might be useful: Care of Greenhouse Azaleas

It has been a while since you posted, but did you have any luck with the blueberry bushes? We have some way overgrown shrubs in our yard (moved in two months ago) and they are just starting to leaf out. I suspect they could be blueberry bushes, and it would be so nice to save them

North, south, east, or west of Hudson's Bay? Just kidding, but we need to know where you live. Parts of Canada are well south of parts of the US. If you're in the Pacific area then I can call in a specialist for you. I will respond to two things you said briefly. 1) NEVER ROTOTILL to prepare for a lawn, and 2) NEVER SEED a cool season grass seed in the spring. So there, I've simplified that much of your issue. Having said that, if you are in the far west, those rules would not be in upper case. NOW is the time to get going on this. Canada is a little euro with respect to using herbicides, but find something you can use on broadleaf weeds. Down here we use Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. Spot spray the weeds only, but I can see that will be a general spray for these first times. Don't use a granular herbicide, because that truly is a bane to the environment. No weed-n-feed products, ever. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mulch mow weekly at your mower's highest setting. Fertilize on Victoria Day, Labour Day, and Remembrance Day (ish). The last one should go down after the grass has stopped growing but before it freezes hard. The idea is to pump nitrogen into the roots but not into the shoots where they would die from the upcoming freeze. Use a high N fast release fertilizer like urea. Use a preemergent herbicide when the forsythia first blooms in your neighborhood. Use it immediately again if you get a heavy spring rain. Use it in the fall if you get a heavy rain. Use a broadleaf post emergent herbicide in mid April (or a month after the grass awakens), and again in mid September. If you can stick to the watering plan and the seeding admonition above, you should not get crabgrass again.

there is nothing you can do otherwise .... but you might wait.. until after winter.. to see if they are still viable ... but sooner or later.. they will fail ... the converse is.. it could fill in.. in the next 5 years.. so the sooner you remove them.. the faster they start that process .... i doubt they would heal.. so there is no use trying to bind them or some such ... cant tell from the sideways pic.. but if its near a structure.. you might turn it.. so the future bare spot is against the house ... outta sight .. outta mind .. or at least out of your main line of sight/view ... ken