Fall crop on Niwot black raspberry
drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years ago
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franktank232
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Raspberries fall crop 2014
Comments (25)Nice to be able to report good news here, my recent plantings have really taken off, Autumn Britten this years bare root plant from Raintree was planted at the end of April and it's a beast of a plant with several long canes with lot's of berries, def needs support as it grows up and out at the same time.....every berry plant has it's own personalty.....my Josephine has canes at least 7 feet long and supported by plastic wire on my trellis system, very heavy from weight of future berries and many......Nantahala is finally putting out fruit buds now, nothing from Double Gold or Crimson Giant but very healthy vigorous growth, Prelude another spring planting has several canes about 7 feet tall needing a mini trellis because of all the future berries and lot's, this is suppose to be a summer variety with bonus Fall Crop but mine has exploded growthwise and it has berries all over the place, not just the tips and it's still growing a great addition....both my Fall Gold and Kiwi Gold spring plantings are doing amazing with several healthy canes and suckers coming up, i may have an overlapping summer/Fall harvest on one Kiwi gold as the Fall crop is almost ready and summer crop is still not done, that's a great plant too and very tasty...,My Polka spring plantings are almost ready to deliver a small Fall Crop as the plants didn't grow all that much but healthy....Caroline failed to fruit as a late spring planting, neither did Jaclyn or my Heritage, but i'm told it's normal for a young plant not to fruit for 2 years. Here's a pic of my Autumn Britten's Fall Crop .... my one plant which is all need of this variety as it's very vigorous and has many berries on the top third of it's canes and then some this year is about experimenting with growth characteristics, productivity,disease resistance, root rot & how much suckering each variety offers and most importantly TASTE ! Some may have to go if i don't like Nice berries Autumn Britten here...See MoreRaspberries: Summer vs. fall ripening dates. Also, Prelude?
Comments (5)I don't agree with that statement if you want berries for a very long time every year. Remember, you have to manage your primocane fruiting varieties differently to get both the floricane (spring) and primocane (fall) crop than you would to just get the primocane crop. Bascially, they have to be managed like a floricane fruiter, except that you have to prune out the portion of the primocane that fruited, because it dies. And some primocane fruiting types fruit so heavily on the primocanes that there's not much cane left to produce fruit on in the spring. Also, nobody ever really talks about how early/late the floricane crop of a primocane fruiting variety is. So, you'll have to rely on your own trial and error to know this. If you plant floricane fruiting types, you'll know which ones are early, mid, and late, and can then order plants accordingly. If you want both primocane and floricane berries, I really do think it's easier to have both floricane fruiting and primocane fruiting varieties and manage the primocane fruiting types to only have the primocane crop....See MoreAnyone REALLY succeed with a Fall crop in Zone 8 or thereabouts?
Comments (23)Hi Tom, I'll try to answer your questions, but keep in mind that my weather/climate is wildly unpredictable, so some years it is every bit as hot and humid as yours, while other it is much, much drier and drought-like with very low humidity. Thus, my plants perform differently in different weather, and I have to change my gardening practices to suit the weather. To answer your questions: My seed-raised fall tomato plants don't get too tall and leggy because they receive sun in the summer from about 6:30 a.m. to around noon. If I think they are getting leggy, I move them out into full sun a couple of days a week. If they STILL seem to be going for the tall, leggy look, I cut them in half with pruning shears. They put on new growth quickly, and seem to get even stockier. Think about your plant whose stem broke in half....and look at how well it is growing now. Well, this is similar to my plants after I cut them back. Also, I keep them in plastic 16 to 20 oz. cups, water them twice and day and don't feed them until I put them into the ground. I think that keeps them smaller and more manageable. The cutting-raised plants are in gallon or quart-sized containers and do get larger and a little leggier if I don't get them out from under the patio cover a couple of times a week. I still try to keep them slightly dry and that helps prevent them from getting too leggy. At times they seem like they are just sitting there and not growing much, but that's OK with me. I want them to grow a lot after they are in the ground, but not before. If they are too big and lush while still in the containers, they suffer from transplant shock when I set them out in the garden in June or July. Some years, generally when I have more fall tomato plants than I have room for, I neglect all the fall tomato plants seriously, giving them only enough water to keep them alive until the spring-planted plants decline enough to be removed. Such tough-love keeps the fall tomato plants alive, but not growing tall and leggy and not getting too lush and full. Once they are in the ground, they are so happy to have all the soil and sunshine, and they just grow like weeds! I want slightly starving, toughened plants that can handle temps in the 100s and beyond from the moment they are transplanted. When I transplant them, I do a modified Earl's Hole method, adding a few handfuls of compost and manure and a little Espoma Tomato Tone plant food to the planting holes. I water them in well, give them a quart or two of water to which I have added liquid seaweed or fish emulsion per the bottle's instructions, cage them, mulch them and then leave them alone. If it is too hot, I won't see much topgrowth for a few weeks, but the roots are growing. ANY cool break in the weather, even a brief one, kicks them into high gear, as does any rain that falls, at least in the years when there is rain falling in the summer months. I water only with soaker hoses and mulch heavily. It took me a while to learn not to overwater or overfeed my tomato plants after we moved to Oklahoma from Texas a few years back. In Texas, I had black gumbo clay enriched with organic material and I could grow anything in it. Here, I have red clay that bakes hard like concrete and requires a lot more amending to make it well-draining. I tried, in my early years here in Oklahoma, to water and feed the plants more to make up for the fact that the soil was so 'bad' and all it gave me was huge, lush tomato plants covered in flowers and fruit.....but also with every kind of foliar disease known to mankind and all kinds of pest problems too. Once I cut back on the watering and focused on feeding the soil and letting the soil feed the plants, I had smaller, less lush plants but still a good amount of tomatoes, and significantly less pest and disease problems. In other words, to a large extent, I believe my overwatering and overfeeding led to the abundance of pest and disease problems. If you are doing ALL your growing in pots, you probably need to do some things differently. For example, my container-grown tomatoes get fed more often and I may give them a water-soluable fertilizer like Miracle-Grow Tomato Plant Food once or twice a month in July and August of very hot, dry years. The constant watering of containers in our summer weather seems to leach out nutrients so the extra feeding is necessary. I have a few container-grown tomatoes in 30-40 gallon tubs and they require more water and more food than plants that are in the ground. If I grew ALL my tomatoes in containers, I think I would invest in a good drip irrigation system to keep the plants well-watered and growing. I grow tons of cherries because they will produce in our 100-plus degree heat even if the larger tomatoes shut down for a few weeks. My favorite cherries (and I have grown all of them in the ground AND in containers) are Dr. Carolyn, Ildi, Sungold, Sweet Million, Riesentraube, Coyote, Black Cherry, Snow White and Rosalita. A friend of mine here on the Oklahoma Forum (where I spend most of my computer time!) has grown Husky Red Cherry this year and has been thrilled withs its' productivity, flavor and toughness in very adverse conditions. I am going to try it next year, and perhaps a couple of other short internode varieties as well. I grow a huge number of varieties every year because I am always looking for the best flavor and best productivity and best disease-resistance in our climate. Some of my favorites for our climate include Little Lucky, Lucky Cross, Nebraska Wedding, Persimmon, Kellogg's Breakfast, Jaune Flamme', Dr. Wyche's Yellow, Livingston's Gold Ball, Stump of the World, Cherokee Purple, Cherokee Green, Cherokee Chocolate, Earl's Faux, Brandy Boy, Better Boy, Super Fantastic and Black Krim. If I could only grow six, I would grow Black Krim, Cherokee Purple, Sungold, Sweet Million, Brandy Boy and Earl's Faux. As far as walking the fine line between feeding and watering them 'enough' but not 'too much', I think it is a combination of experience, intuition, and guessing. I have to be flexible and go with the flow, because Okahoma weather, at any given point in our 220-day growing season can be cruelly hot and dry OR immensely wet, cool and cloudy OR there can be thunderstorms or tornadoes with very high winds and huge hail OR.....three months with all sun and heat and no rain OR nine inches of rain in one day. Such conditions force you to be ready to react quickly, change what isn't working and be open to new ideas. Have you ever grown tomatoes in the ground or does your soil make that an impossibility? Also, can't you solarize the soil and amend it to the point that the bacterial wilt is not overwhelming? Dawn...See MoreBlackberry "fall" crop already begun in Los Angeles
Comments (7)Well good to hear your Freedoms doing so well in SoCal, i double pinched last year and i got nothing due to frost so i'm guessing the warm weather is in your favor since tipping twice delays the fruit set quite a bit in New York....but yes these are monsters alright, the Primocanes are over 4 foot tall already it's still May so hopefully i'll get a Fall Crop this year. I did notice after pinching the Primocanes at 12-15 inches early that they set a lot of laterals as intended, great new variety this Freedom can't wait as my Floricane berries are about Almond sized now and lots of em too !. here's a pic below of my Apaches ( Left) and Freedoms....lottsa blooms...See More
jtburton
9 years agofranktank232
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years agoberrypete
9 years agoFor Niwot black raspberry pruning ideas, please refer to my pruning file at http://home.comcast.net/~ptallman/PPprune1.pdf
Pete Tallman
Longmont, CO
lsoh
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years agoI couldn't weigh the berries, but they all finished and ripened. Pretty good size, taste was OK, hard to judge without other blacks around. Plus plant is new. From memory I like Jewell better, but taste is subjective.
clarkinks
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agotyler_j
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoberrypete
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agotyler_j
8 years agojtburton
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agoI do the same thing JT, I think I'm going to keep the plants anyway. I had a taste of Marion, wow, it is the best. It tastes a lot different. Yes, my favorite now. i also like Tayberries, they taste more like raspberries than blackberries. I need to have a few more berries though to evaluate better. I'm having a hard time keeping it alive here, it's too cold here.
My best fruit this year was a Arctic Glo nectarine. Wow, absolutely amazing fruit.
jtburton
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agojtburton
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agocalfee20
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI planted 5 Niwot bare root from Nourse this spring and I am happy to get a taste of them. I think they are good but I have no reference as I have not tasted any other black raspberry.
wendy489
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agowendy489
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowendy489
8 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
8 years agojerry63
7 years agokeen101 (5b, Northern, Colorado)
4 years agoberrypete
4 years agokeen101 (5b, Northern, Colorado)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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