They sure both look Asian to me. I think you should maybe replace both with trees properly identified, but because they are probably Asian they will probably adequately identify themselves very shortly. If they are Asian you don't have to worry about speeding their fruiting- they may even bear next season. The reason I would consider replacing them is because fireblight can be heartbreaking and even if you graft on other varieties the trees may be susceptible unless you have no tender new wood from original trees. On the bright side, many Asians are fireblight resistant. Multiple leader pear trees are common in commercial production in the west coast. Here in the east they are mostly grown to a central leader- I guess we don't get quite as much FB. Festooning (pulling branches below horizontal)the branches may encourage early fruiting but it will not encourage a great scaffold structure. I sometimes use the method for trees I plan to train to a weep or for Euro plums just to get them into fruiting mode but many types of pears should not be trained this way in my opinion. None of the Asians I grow would be good candidates for this, they fruit so early anyway. Asian and European pears are mostly pollen compatible- the problem can be timing of bloom. That issue will sort itself out as well when trees begin to flower.

I just had my first Drippin Honey, and it's the best tasting pear I've ever had. I've also got Yonaishi and Olympic Giant, and they don't come close. It's incredibly sweet for an Asian Pear, as sweet as European Pears, but has a more distinctive taste. It's also got the texture of the Asian Pear. Up until now, Coralstar Peaches were my favorite fruit. Drippin Honey changed that. Oh my, they are so good. The fruit came out fine, with no spraying at all. The only problem is, I only got two this year (the first year I got any). Hopefully next year I'll have more. I'll certainly be planting more of them. It's a pity only Gurney's and Henry Field's sells them. I don't like either company (well, it's the same one), but that won't stop me from getting a couple more of these trees.

Rina, The only work I did on this tree was thinning fruits. Too many fruits will snap the branches. I try to graft a new variety anywhere to balance the tree structure. Pear is one of the easiest tree to graft. I choose my varieties from the USDA Corvallis. Scion woods are free and just have to pay for Fedex shipping. They asked you for a reason to obtain the scion woods and I usally told them for a cold hardy trail in Zone 5. In about 5 years then I email them the results. Tony Here is a link that might be useful: USDA / Corvallis

Sharppa, From what I've gathered from several experts here, for peach, each problem is treated with different chemicals at different time. Peach leaf Curl and backterial leaf spot, I use copper during dormant season. I use copper hydroxide (Kocide 3000) in late fall and early spring. For brown rot, some use Monterey Fungi Fighter about a month before harvest. Otheres use Captan (which also helps with peach scab). I have not used any. So far, brown rot is not too severe for me (yet). Peach scab, some use Captan, I use wettable sulfur (not as effective but, to me, it's less harmful than Captan). You should add sticker such as Bonide Turbo or NuFilm 17 so the chemicals stay on trees longer. As for insects, I also use Triazicide but some here don't think it works for them. I work for me. I don't use immunox on peach. It does not help. Immunox is famous for preventing Cedar Apple Rust on apples in the spring. I'll see if I could answer your Asian pears on another post. I have 4 Asian pear varieties and more than 4 pear problems!!! By the way, what part of the country you live. It can make a difference.