That's adorable!! Did you make the mailbox too? Most of them use GE silicone II for doors & windows(outside)caulk & be sure the glass is very clean, might even want to use rubbing alcohol & then don't touch area where you are going to caulk it together & let totem dry for few days before placing in garden. Others will add to this but in case you are in a hurry. Welcome & great project! Thanks for pic! Jan

Is someone handy at your house? I bought a glue gun holder & it is great. The glue if it drips ends up on a 4 in. sq. ceramic tile. it is so handy. I'll try & get pic & ask Kudzu if she will post it. Some lady was selling them several yrs ago, she hand painted design or I think it may have been me. Anyway it makes it look better. Glue gun isn't likely to drop on floor or table & do damage but I always use a 1 ft wide board that is covered with vinyl used in cabinetmaking & in better cabinets. It is white & great for crafts. My piece was supposed to be a shelf, 28 in. long.It just wipes clean & at xmas doubles as extra counter space in kitchen for cookies that need frosting, I open a top drawer & lay it on there with the edge just inside top lip of drawer so it won't fall if I bump it. It wipes clean of paint, glue, etc. Sold at Home Depot I imagine or may have to ask for shelf piece from cabinet shop. You want the shelf as it is vinyl on front & back & front edge of it. I had a large wedding cake board my DH made me & it was stolen by a fancy club even though it had my name on bottom,lady did pay me for it. Anyway great stuff for crafts & cakes!! The glue holder is just 2 pieces of wood 3/4 in. pine base is 11 in. long & 5 in wide. The holder part is 5 in wide & 5 in tall with bottom edge going into base board where it has been cut out 4 in. in from 1 end. You need something that will cut down & remove area 3/4 in wide (holder fits in that slot)& 1/4 in. deep into the board. then go in 1 7/8 in. towards middle on each side & cut out a U that is where the glue gun goes. Glue the holder piece into the base piece, paint any color or stain & varnish. Then paint design on it if you are handy otherwise glue tile on the longer end about 1/2 in out from holder part. That's it!! Pic will really help so I will get going on that!! Jan

To keep from wasting the GEII since it skims over while I'm fiddling with tesserae placement, I gun it into a large syringe from the vet's. Then I can simply squish out as much as needed for each piece, place it and go on. If I run out of time and have to stop before a syringe is empty, I stick a push pin in the hole, draw the plunger back and let it in effect self seal. Might have a little cured plug attached to the pin when I'm ready to resume, but other than that very little waste. To plug the end of the caulk tube, use a medium diameter nail and some tape. I am switching more to the thinset, but still working out how to keep it from setting up as quickly......maybe I just need to cut loose and work faster!! LOL!! Pat

Gorilla Glue is terrible at filling gaps. It was the only glue to fail on a recent magazine's glue test when the joints were not squeaky tight. Yes, it will fill the gap, but it is foam and has no structural strength. Chances are the original was done with hide glue. New hide glue will reactivate the old and make it one. Hide glue is also more creep resistant than PVA (white or yellow glues). The only disadvantage (for this application, it is an advantage for other appplications) is that is neither terribly heat nor moisture resistant, so I would not use it if it is an exterior door. If it is an exterior door, I would probably use TiteBond III or equivalent. If you decide to use Gorilla Glue anyway, please read the directions. Wet the tenons, use the glue sparingly (less than half what you think you need), and clamp while it cures. If you don't, you will have a terrible mess of foam and open joints.