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Fruit & Orchards

Drip irrigation turns leaves yellow...

10 years ago

So another day and another problem with the berry patch. I installed a drip irrigation system this year with the intent to improve my watering of the berry plants. Most of the plants have 1/2 gallon per hour pressure sensitive drippers to even out the water distribution. The problem is that every time I use the system, most of the berry plants end up with yellow leaves near the bottom of the plant. I figured I was over watering but I have timed the water distribution at 20 minutes and skipped a couple of days at a time. Strangely enough, I have hand watered some of these same plants this year from the same water source and didn't have this problem. Any ideas?

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Comments (8)

User
10 years ago
Is your soil sandy? Clay? Over watering can cause the N to leach out of the soil or overwatering especially when mulched can cause root issues. I doubt it is the drippers themselves causing the problem. Can you post a picture of the plants?
jtburton
Original Author
10 years ago
My soil is clay. The rest of the plant seems ok, it's just the bottom couple of leaves. The raspberries seem to take it the worst. Assuming the nitrogen leached away, what's the best way to replace it and reduce the problem from occurring in the future?
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AM, Yes most controllers are not as flexible as you would like. The more money the more flexibility. I am not even aware of a 6 program controller. Someone may know. What was the old one that you used? I just need to gather more information from you to make an informed suggestion. I need to know your flow rate of your water source. Is your system off a outdoor house faucet or the mainline from your house before your house pressure regulator? If a hose faucet, then fill a five-gallon bucket and time how long to fill. Give us the time to fill 5-gallons. Next is the drip ones, how long or how many and what spacing and the type of drip lines or emitters? How many sprinklers and what Brand/type for each zone? What I am looking for is flow rates of drip tape or emitters to calculate the water demand for each zone. This is like a design in reverse which is a water audit. If you don't have all the info give me as much as you can. Finally, what is your water pressure? Buy an inexpensive pressure gauge that fits on your faucet from hardware store. When I can tell what zone uses what amount of what, then you can tell what zones can run simultaneously and the ones that need extra time can be at a later time and duration. You might try buying another Controller and hook three zone to one and 3 zone to another for the 6 programs you need. JMHO Aloha
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Too much water. Nothing needs constant water, especially in December, even in So Cal. Let the soil dry on top before watering again. If it's in a pot make sure the water drains out the bottom. Potted roses in So Cal might need daily water most of the year, but not in December, unless they're extremely rootbound. And roses in the ground do not need daily water unless they're in very sandy soil. As I recall, most of So Cal has clay, and clay stays wet for a LONG time. Clay soil presents another problem - getting the water in deep enough. Takes way longer than you would think. When I gardened in NorCal on heavy adobe clay, I would use drip irrigation to water the roses - five drippers at a gallon an hour, for about an hour, two or three times a week in the hottest weather, and not at all in winter. Minis would need only two or three drippers. when you say full sun, that's for at least 6 hours, right? Sometimes when people say 'full sun', they only mean that it gets direct sunlight at some point of the day, even if just a few minutes. Cold??? what do you mean by cold?? My roses are still nice dark healthy green, and they've been snowed on twice this month. Our temps have typically been in the upper 30s - low 40s, with occasional dips to upper 20s. Has it been colder than that where you are? They've also gotten nearly a foot of rain this month, but they're all in very well drained soil. We typically get about 55 inches of rain a year, but we also typically have gravelly and sandy soils, not clay.
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please post a picture of the entire plant. Partial leaves aren't much help.
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Seems like whats happening is they were are low on nutrients, started showing the signs(mainly yellow leaves from not having enough nitrogen) especially now that its blooming it uses more. You noticed and were hoping it was just lacking water and added even more which if anything probably made matters worse by keeping the roots from absorbing what little if any nutrients are left if any from the miracle grow soil. Of course this just speculation and my theory of whats going on, considering Im assuming that they have not been feed besides what nutrients were in the potting soil. If there were the case I would let the soil get back to how you had it and FEED it!!
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jean001a
10 years ago
Please do the math: How much water is supplied in 20 minutes by a half-gallon per hour dripper?
(Answer: Not much.I.E.: Far too little for a raspberry plant.)

A question: How can you determine how much soil has been moistened by one dripper in 20 minutes?
The answer: Put a trowel in the soil and look.

Bottom line: You'll need to add more drippers and will need to run the system longer than 20 minutes.
Noogy
10 years ago
My mother has clay soils and mine is sand/loam. I transplanted Arapaho and heritage from her house and the difference is remarkable in vigor, overall health and size of berries. Berries like sand, however I've seen wild BlackB's in clay.

This post was edited by Noogy on Sat, Jul 20, 13 at 9:02
User
10 years ago
JT,

It is just hard to say..if it is too much water especially in clay it could be root issues from being waterlogged......or it could be too dry.or it could need more nitrogen. You will have to investigate a bit.

I hate drippers but that is just me. Perhaps try giving a couple plants more nitrogen and see if you notice a change in them compared to the others.
jean001a
10 years ago
For an instant answer about moisture content and watering efficacy, check the soil.
MrClint
10 years ago
I'm going to throw in with jean001a. Stick your finger in the dirt and follow up with a moisture meter. Once soil crusts over, a slow drip will not penetrate deep enough to reach plant roots. I use a wand at full blast jammed into the soil to deep water my beds. To do otherwise in my locale is to watch plants fail. Don't trust, test.
larry_gene
10 years ago
...the bottom couple of leaves out of how many leaves? It is common once a berry cane has reached shoulder high or taller for the oldest, bottom leaves to yellow or dry up. Once the plants mature and shade each other, the lower leaves can be affected also.

The probe the soil for moisture content is good advice. Minutes and rates can have varying effects in different soils or weather spells. If you have small, recent berry starts, your water may be fine; for an established planting in mid-summer, perhaps not enough water.

What is the dripper spacing versus the plant spacing?

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