Raspberries are not well suited to container culture. Blueberries such as you linked to are very well suited to container culture. The dwarf varieties can be grown in 12" pots and are shallow rooted (roots go down 6-8"). However, many dwarf blueberries will spread much further than 12" if allowed to so a larger pot will often result in a wider (though not taller) shrub. The only caveat in growing blueberries is that nearly all will fruit poorly if the soil ph isn't in the 4.0 to 5.0 range which is very acidic and difficult to maintain unless you follow some simple precautions. First, use peat moss as the base of the potting mix. Do not use regular potting soil that is peat based as lime has been added to counteract the acidity. Regular peat is 3.5-4.5ph in most cases. Add some compost to the peat for nutrients. Fertilize with an acid fert labelled for azaleas. Blueberries do not require much fertilization so go very light on the fert. The water you use will affect the ph of the container soil quickly. Use only rainwater (ph 4-5-5.5 in most cases) or use vinegar to adjust the ph of your tapwater (requires a ph test paper or kit capable of reading down to 4.5) to figure how much vinegar to use. Alternately you can use distilled water which is ph neutral and unbuffered so shouldn't affect ph much, if at all. Really all there is to blueberries is controlling the ph of the water going into the container and they pretty much grow themselves, especially in containers. Most are also very beautiful in the fall when the leaves turn colors and many have colored wood in the winter as well. I grow 2 varieties of dwarf blueberries in containers, they are Northsky and Tophat. Cold hardy to zones 2-3. Most blueberries fruit best when allowed to cross pollinate although some are self fertile like the one you linked to. Still, having 2 different varieties next to each other is a good thing. Lastly, all blueberries are shallow rooted, even the taller shrubs so they can all be grown in containers successfully. You aren't limitted to dwarf varieties with containers. Just pay attention to the zone ratings as blueberries are very different in the zones they do best in or can survove in. There are varieties for zone 2 and varieties for very hot areas as well. Choose one for your area.

I saved persimmon with a tarp and 1500 watt heater against 24F. This is a pretty big tree, about 7ft wide and tall. So it takes a big tarp. Two nearby unprotected trees lost all fruit and leaves. I saved grapes from the same freeze by covering and heat. Saved 15 inch tall sweetcorn by heavy covering without heat. A very few leaves were frost marked. Was covered with cardboard, blankets, and refectix insulation, three layers overhead and two on the sides. It would have taken very heavy and many layers frost blanket to save this crop from 24F. Wrapped one jujube graft breaking bud with three layers of row cover. It was killed by ~28F and hasn't sprouted back. Other jujube grafts covered with heavy black barrels survived 28F but not 24F later on. It took blankets and another layer to save those. I think the frost blanket by itself is effective only on low growing veggies with warm soil close at hand. I think fruit trees are too high to benefit much from frost blanket. An air tight covering has usually worked for me with sufficient heat inside. 750-1500 watts for medium size tree and 100-250 watts on a small tree.

I live about 60 miles southwest of New Orleans. Nothing we have planted is over three years in the ground. The best for me, so far has been my citrus. This year will not be good because of a late frost at bud time. Valencia, blood orange, tangerine, Ruby Red grapefruit and Louisiana Sweet produced heavily. The Owari and Brown Select Satsumas have not grown enough to produce well. Meyer and Lisbon lemons are doing well (planted next to the south side of the house). I spray when I see white flies. There has been a bit of leaf minor damage, but that will be less of a problem as the trees grow. I planted an American and a Fuyu persimon. The American is growing slowly, the Fuyu has died three times in the same spot. The next Fuyu I buy will go in another spot. No bugs were noticed, they just dried up (after looking lush and beautiful) and died. No spraying on them. The muscadines are growing beautifully and quickly. I may have a monster to tame with pruning. The Cowart is loaded with fruit I hope to get some before the animals get them all. The other varieties are Carlos (for wine), Summit, and Fry. One vine makes all the muscadine I can use, if the animals would leave them alone. I had 2 Fry and 2 Cowart at my last house. The only problems so far, with no spraying, is a few aphids. The peaches are a different story. The 2 Florida King, which ripened first, gave us enough fruit to eat and preserve. The other 3, LaPeche and La Festival, ripened later and were beset by bugs and squirrels. It also started raining every day, so I couldn't effectively spray. We lost all those peaches, except a couple we picked still too green to enjoy. Peaches look like they will be a lot of work, but we love them. We planted 3 apple trees (Anna, Dorsett Golden, and Ein Sheimer). Two died (I think because of root damage from hurricanes Katrina and Rita. One bent the trees to the ground from the North, the other bent the trees to the ground from the South.) and of course I didn't mark which was which. I was going to mark them later and then after the tags fell off, I was going to identify them from the fruit. I think I may try to replace them. I had 2 fruit on the remaining tree, but something wanted them more than me and was willing to eat them green. Not much bug problems yet, but then no fruit. The pears are growing well and I have some fruit on the Keiffer. The Pineapple and Orient are growing well, but no fruit yet. They are young trees. Had one banch with fireblight, which I removed. It has not returned, yet. Figs normally do well down here, but I'm having trouble getting them established. Most froze back to the ground or had major limb damage from the last frost we had. All the trees were sprouted and some had breba crops. Now we have a few fruit on the LSU Gold and the Ventura, but as they ripen the birds get them. My neighbor has 2 well established trees, but I looked at them yesterday and all the ripe ones were split from the rain. I don't think he is even picking any. I tried growing pawpaw, the seedling died and the grafted Mango variety died to the root. The root is coming back and is doing okay as I am now shading it. I thought planting them between my shed and my neighbors shed would be shade enough, but they got direct, middle of the day sun and were fried. I plan to try another grafted pawpaw in the future. I have a wild mulberry. It grows very fast and produces a ton of fruit. This year we had tent catepillars (after the fruit was gone). I sprayed the tree once for a scale infestation. I need to trim some branches, but overall a no care tree. I have 2 jujubes (Li and Lang). No pests, no problems. We have fruit this year for the first time. I sure hope I like them. I have never tasted them before. The biggest problem has been root suckers. I mow most of them and cut by hand the ones close to the trunk. I planted some wild cherry trees, but a rabbit ate the bark of and killed them. I will try again. I planted some banana trees a couple of months ago. So far, so good. I planted two Cherry of the Rio Grand and a Strawberry Guava. The goats ate them to the ground, but one of each is coming back. They are very small. I have two English walnuts. I thought they would never break dormancy, but finally did and started growing like gangbusters. Then something (Junebugs?) ate all the leaves off. I sprayed, but it has been raining every day so I don't know if I did any good. They are sprouting again. I have two pecan trees (Sumner and Elliot). They are finally starting to grow. I hope to try a few in about 5 or 6 more years. I have 3 loquats. They produced one year and then I pruned drastically to correct a shape issue. Just a few this year, but should be great next year. No bug problems, except a few leaves were chewed on the edges. I guess the bugs needed something after the walnut leaves were gone. I have (had) 5 plum trees (Methley, Santa Rosa, and Bruce). Several died and yes, I didn't mark the varieties. They seem to have problems with mosses and lichen growing on the trunk and need to be sprayed a couple of times a year. I've used copper and lime/sulphur. Both seem to work. No fruit to speak of yet. The couple we had were small. They may be getting too much shade from an oak tree. I have one seedless concord. It is very slow growing (at least compared to the muscadine) and has not produced any fruit yet.

SWD hit my garden this year. At first i was very bummed, but using organic sprays with a 1 day PHI worked very well. Also refrigerating the berries removed most worms. I really don't see it as a major problem. I didn't spray my raspberries because of constant flowering but the blackberries take a long time to ripen and were flowerless when ripening. Also the SWD seemed to like them better anyway as my raspberries were left alone for the most part. The spraying controlled them well. Although you do need to spray as much as possible. I would suggest planting Chester blackberries as a trap crop. Even if left they would be effective. You could spray them with anything if you had no plans to harvest. I like them as a trap crop because berries form early (so no flowers at all when ripe) yet take a long time to ripen and ripen over a long period of time. Just about when SWD is the worst here.