poor success grafting persimmons
cousinfloyd
11 years ago
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Scott F Smith
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoMonyet
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Grafting to top work persimmon - question
Comments (8)I generally graft multiple scions when I'm bark grafting to trees 2" in diameter or larger. They can be the same or different varieties. This improves the chances that at least one scion will take. I let them all grow through the first growing season. During the first dormant season I inspect them. If the bases are getting at all close to each other, I'll cull all but one. On larger trees I may be able to wait until the second dormant season before culling. I use the culled branches for a scion source to graft other trees. That is why I sometimes let them go two dormant seasons on larger trees. It kind of works like a scion farm. It is possible to let more than one scion grow permanently from a bark graft. However, this is generally problematic. You are creating the same kind of crotch angle that we generally want to get rid of because they are weak and are at threat of breaking at some point. If you want more than one variety from a single tree, I would recommend using some other grafting technique that does not create the bad crotch angles you get when bark grafting multiple scions. As for grafting techniques, I'm not highly experienced with many grafting techniques. I generally bark graft persimmons because I've had such great success rates bark grafting native rootstock growing wild in the field....See MoreLucky P, ScottSmith, or anyone -multi graft persimmon
Comments (8)Tony - good advice, above, from Scott. I do almost exclusively bark grafts anymore -see Joe Real's tutorial, linked below - it's how I graft everything from persimmons & pears to pecans & oaks; it's really sort of a modified T-bud placement, if you think about it, but instead of a budshield, you're inserting a stick of budwood into a T where the horizontal cut is just a decapitating cut. But, I've done simple splice grafts, 4-flap, whip & tongue on persimmon with reasonable success. All are best done after the rootstock begins leafing out and the bark 'slips'. Aftercare, as Scott described, being diligent in keeping new shoots from the seedling understock rubbed off is THE most important part of grafting persimmons. Multi-grafting persimmon can be done, but it's harder to manage with this genus than just grafting onto a single stem - but if you have the time to religiously keep an eye on it, rub off adventitious shoots and keep the grafts growing in balance, you should be able to pull it off. One caveat - persimmons 'self-prune'. As the tree gets taller, lower limbs decline and are shed off. So...be aware that if any particular variety you graft on has a higher placement and becomes the dominant leader, varieties grafted(or that just end up) lower on the tree may 'disappear' over a period of years....See MoreWhat's the most successful type of conifer grafting style?
Comments (6)My technique is a modified top-graft. I choose seedlings with some smaller branchlets down low, then straight cut off the terminal shoot a couple of inches below the bud. Then make two shallow cuts on opposite sides straight down the shoot (about two inches) and two small cuts across to remove the bark and leave a small lip on each side. Scion (about four inches) has a straight cut across the bottom, then a straight cut in the middle up the same two inches to match the stock. Open the scion cut slightly and place around stock. Wrap with parafilm then binders. I put a plastic bag over graft (secured on bottom with binder) with an opening for misting and usually I can get a couple of inches of new growth within two months and then outplant for the rest of the summer....See MorePersimmon Branch grafting Multi Cultivars
Comments (10)Please, read this instead: Initially, I thought it would be a good idea to plant multiple saplings (each a different cultivar) into the same hole only 5" apart from one another hoping that they will, eventually, fuse (inosculate) together into a single trunk when they have all expanded to fill-in the space between each other. I, ultimately, decided against this strategy upon the advice of Jerry Lehman who suggested that the trunks would not likely fuse and would become diseased, etc. I don't know, but I think that this might not be the best solution. But what if this was done when the trunks were only 1" wide, if that, and placed flushed against eachother (bare-root)? Then I looked into 'approach grafting'. But the principle is the same, because Jerry recommended that Diospyros virginiana trunks, in particular, do not heal well when wounded - but if saplings, I would think it would be the same as if grafted (that heals...). Well, having just read your reply to the above post, I'm thinking about waiting until my 'Meader' is large enough and then, maybe attempting a multi graft onto it. Can you please give a detailed description of how you would do this. Would it be the same as with an apple tree? Do you mean that you would cut off each limb and do something of a rind graft onto each limb of a different variety. If this would work, I would raise my 4 small persimmon trees until the year that I can use scion wood from each to in-graft into the Meader. I look forward to hearing your views on this - if you can, please review the ideas that I mentioned above. Thanks, Steve What if 4 bare-root nursery-grafted saplings of the same height (less then 1" diameter) were wrapped flushed/tightly together with tape [so that there is no room in between each other were planting in the ground]? They would be wrapped around the base, midway up from ground level, and a third tape wrap at the top. Since they are young, wouldn't they have thin-enough bark exteriors that they would form a single trunk as they expand? I feel strongly about doing this... I don't want to make a mistake and cause the 4 to rot, instead of fusing, however. I've seen a wiki link that showed 4 trees of 4 cores growing next to each other showing that their 4 cores migrated to the center - cross-section/fire wood....See Morecreekweb
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agocousinfloyd
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agocreekweb
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoScott F Smith
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoMonyet
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agomrtexas
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agomrtexas
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agotucsonken
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoskyjs
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agolucky_p
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agocousinfloyd
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agocousinfloyd
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoforestandfarm
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agocousinfloyd
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoforestandfarm
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoDarkman
7 years agosunny_orchard
7 years agoDarkman
7 years agoMonyet
7 years agocousinfloyd
7 years agoDarkman
7 years agoAlex Godun
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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