Mine is dying too (It was a plant that someone gave us for my Grandpa's funeral). The leaves are dying (it was near a cold wall and I moved it), they are crisping as well. I clipped them off, there are a few shoots so we'll see. I think I wasn't watering it enough, because it's in a planter with no drain holes and since it was winter I was afraid to water it too much. Does your plant have drainage? If not you may be watering it too much. Usually I wait for my leaves to droop and then water it. That seemed to work okay, but then it HATES the cold around our house. There is another plant in with it and it's doing fine, but I have no idea what it is.

Marie, yesterday I replied, but my computer froze..lost everything..sigh. So sorry. Here's an example where you need to cut.. X X 000XLOOO X 00000XOOOOO X X 000000X0000000 Marie, X's are the main trunk. 0's are stems. In the first horizonal line, let's say that's where the brown/dead leaf is. L in line one is where you'd cut off the stem and leaf. Nearest the trunk (X) Hope you understand. This isn't the greatest example, but it's the best I can do..lol.. The problem with foils and lined baskets...when a plant is watered, and something is blocking water from draining, water builds up inside the foil/liner/pot without holes.. Roots sitting in water, constantly, causes root rot. Hope you understand why it's so important a pot needs drainage holes. Roots sitting in water emits a terrible odor. Stagnant. They eventually get mushy and die. PL can't live without roots. How will you know when you need to repot? If soil dries out completely, and you find yourself watering daily, it needs a larger pot. You can remove the entire plant from its pot. If there are more roots than soil, it needs a larger container. It doesn't need too large pot. Increase 1-2 sizes bigger. Actually, PL's like to be a little snug, they tend to flower more. But as I stated, if the soil dries to a point it's cracked or there's more roots than soil, it should be repotted. If you decide to remove plant from the pot, and find mostly roots...measure the pot size..To do this, using a ruler or measureing tape, set the ruler on the top edge directly across to the other side. This number equals the pot size. Let's say it's a 4" pot. You'd need to increase to a 5-6" container. When you shop for a pot, the size is usually labeled. I suggest a plastic pot. Don't forget a saucer. After you repot, water thoroughly until water seeps from the drainage holes. PL's do best in medium, bright light..An east window is fine. West and South summer sun could burn the leaves unless you place your PL a few feet away from the window. Test soil by sticking your finger or a stick inside soil. If it comes out wet, the bottom soil is still wet. It varies. You don't want soil too wet or too dry. PL's need more water in summer, 'depending on your house temps, light and humidity.' You'll need to fertiilze a few weeks after repotting. Look for an All Purpose Fertilizer or equally balanced, like 10-10-10. My PL's are fertilized in spring and summer. Once daylight hours shorten, all they get is water. One thing about PL's, they can flower year round. BTW, sometimes plants take time to bloom after repotting. It's a matter of adjusting to their new home. This is optional, but I spray leaves daily. It takes a few seconds..Once a week, my PL's are brought to the sink, leaves are showered. 'Not soil.' That's about it. The only other tidbit is..I clean out old milk containers, save water. When a plant is ready for a drink, I use the water from the milk container. Marie, I hope your plant does well, Toni

I agree with the sunburn diagnosis. PL's burn very easily. The light coming through mini blinds and sheers isn't enough, though. Somewhere that's not outside in the sunshine but is more brightly lit than the location it is pictured in would be good. Also agree with changing to soil to improve aeration but would personally do it with mulch instead of perlite. I don't like the looks of "white-top" soil and perlite just takes up space in the pot without offering any benefit to the plant. That soil is hard to see clearly but looks like it has a lot of peat which is hideous stuff that never seems to dry out until suddenly it's so dry it won't get wet again. Also "floats to the surface" like perlite. Read some of the other posts on here about PL's and other plants which contain root pruning advice from AL. You may decide more root pruning than you already did would be good. PL's make "pups" to increase themselves. Each individual part makes 1 leaf at a time and over time a PL can develop a whole family. Yours looks like 2 clumps where the biggest one has one growing eye and the other clump has 2 eyes. These clumps are probably still connected to each other by a root which could be severed so you could but each clump in a separtate pot, or back together in the same pot. It's been my experience that when PL's get severed from each other they usually send up new eyes and/or whole new pups.

I have two Spathiphyllums that I split when they were small years ago. I had trouble with them wilting as well when I first got them. Either the pot is too small or too big. Never repot a plant in a pot over 1 1/2 inches bigger than the existing pot. I put mine in a big pot twice the size of the poor plant, I had no experience with plants back then, and the plant never got any bigger and it wilted. Turns out the soil around the root ball was staying wet and the roots were starting to rot. I split the plant and put them in different pots and now they are so big I have to buy huge pots for them. They are at the point of being split more than once each. I give them lots of fertilzer and water then regularly. More in the summer time but I keep mine out on the porch when it's warm out. The indoor temperature effects them as well. If where they are right now is cool from the AC they need less water. If the heater is on they will need more. To check your plants to see if they are thirsty put your pointer finger in the soil one inch. If it is dry to the tip of your finger water the plant. If it is moist they are ok for that time. Light: these plants need medium light (no direct sunlight- they will burn and turn brownish gray) and need to be away from drafts - AC vents, doors and open windows. Make sure you don't have root-rot going on or nematodes...if you have these evil pests kill the plant and burn it...nematodes can live in dry foliage and soil for over a year! Prun away any dead or dieing foliage because that way the nutrtion will be going to the healthy stems instead. Make sure the soil is well drained and there is a drain hole in the bottom of your pot. DO NOT let the plant sit in water in a saucer because that's where the salts from the soil drain to. If you let the plant sit in it the plant with suck back up these harmful salts. After each watering empty the saucer. Watering overhead is better than watering from the saucer. The suction from the water pulls the salts from the soil into the saucer making the plant healthier... you may have a salt build up killing your Spath. And with the roots Peace Lilies will survive in plain water as long as they are fed fertilizer, half the roots are out of the water (oxygen) and the other half is in the water (water and nutrition). I love Peace Lilies and this is what I have learned over the years about these magnificent plants. (Besides taking a college coarse on interior plants)I hope my info helps. Good Luck with your plants!!!