I live in zone 10 also - and have two apples here. They aren't growing in the lawn, however. They are both "low-chill" varieties - one is Dorset Golden, which looks a lot like a Delicious apple in shape, but has a slightly gold/yellow color to it, and I find - much better tasting than the commercial Delicious. It is on it's second year. I fertilize with compost tea - occasionally - not often, and both trees are growing in native soil. I do have good drainage in that area. The other apple, is called "Anna" and is also "low-chill" and is in the 3rd year. It was slow to produce the first couple of years, but I had a good crop this year, and the apples were excellent. It was slow to come out of hibernation, but when it did, it was very healthy looking. I would give these "low-chill" varieties about 3 years to establish. I don't water too often - but mulch heavily in summer. You might like these low-chill types better. I have heard that another apple Ein Scheimer - is also good here - and quite tasty. My only fault with Anna - is that it mushes up in apple pie, but I cut the pieces big and that seems to help. They also bubble a lot when canning apple sauce - but other than that, I can find no other complaint. Bejay

I grow several Austins here in Montreal (hot and also HUMID summers)and they do very well. I spray with sulphur in the spring, after pruning, and Safer's Defender in late summer, if needed. The only time I get a little blackspot is if we have a very cool, wet spring, and sometimes in the fall, if it's damp (I have no BS so far this season). I do get powdery mildew on a few that aren't on your list. Every area is different, you won't know for sure until you try. As others have said, they have varying degrees of winterkill depending on the winter, but they all bounce back and are blooming by early June no matter how low I've had to prune. I've never lost one in the ground (mine are planted around 2 inches deep, so I do mound them with about 10" of soil in November, just in case. Planting deeper will eliminate that chore). You will love their beautiful and fragrant blooms. These have all come through winter beautifully (grafted on multiflora, unless otherwise indicated): Graham Thomas (own root) Charlotte (own root) The Prince Sharifa Asma Evelyn Tamora Heritage Janet Pretty Jessica Jubilee Celebration Abe Darby Jude the Obscure Spirit of Freedom (own root) Crocus Rose (as everyone has said, the least winterkill) Judith

My list is similar to Woodyoak's: Honeysuckle - look for varieties of Lonicera sempervirens, a native red-flowered honeysuckle (though also a few yellow or orange types), that grows well around here and attracts hummingbirds. Try to get a variety that says it is mildew resistant if that is likely to be a problem for you. Mine isn't a named variety, but I have never had mildew problems. Clematis - My favorites! I especially like the summer flowering, hard prune varieties or the really early flowering atragenes (no pruning) as they aren't likely to wilt and bloom at times other than my main flushes of perennials. Hydrangea anomala subspecies petiolaris and Schizophragma hydrangoides are both shade-loving extremely large vines with hydrangea-type flowers. I have a plain green Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris growing up a large retaining wall, but it also grows well up tree trunks. There are also some varieties with variegation on the leaves, like Moonlight and Miranda, but regardless, be sure you have room for this one if you are going to plant it. I do have some of the hardier climbing roses, but for me they have to be single early bloomers or they need attention to removing Japanese beetles daily. I am currently trying a hardy kiwi for the first time. One of my across-town neighbors grows it, so I am hoping that our conditions are similar enough that I can be successful. The fruit of hers is delicious. I honestly wouldn't call it a beautiful vine, however! If I were going to plant wisteria, I would be more likely to use the American wisteria as it isn't so rampant and invasive, though it still is a large vine needing attention to pruning. Both the Chinese and Japanese tend to seed around and need much management as far as pruning, way more than I have time for. There are horror stories out there of sprouts from roots meters away from the original plant. In all honesty, there are a couple of annual vines I really like as well: Sweet peas (for sentimental reasons since my grandmother grew them) have lovely scented flowers. I would NOT recommend perennial sweet peas - no scent and they seed around horribly. Scarlet runner beans have bright red flowers that attract hummingbirds, and as a bonus have edible beans, either very young as green beans or dried beans with a lovely purple mottled color. I also like black-eyed Susan vine, Thunbergia alata, with its cheerful yellow or orange (or more rarely white or pink) flowers with dark eyes.

Shacute and Sam: Glad that Sam mentioned compost .. that provides soluble phosphorus for more branching on new roses. I made the same mistake of putting too much nitrogen when I first bought own-root roses .. and got only one bloom the 1st year !! Sulfate of potash is best ordered on Amazon, the ones at the store (Espoma Potash) is muriate of potash, or potassium-chloride, salt-index of 112.6 ... that's the salty stuff we use to de-ice sidewalk in zone 5a. Quick way to get the potassium & phosphorus you need is to grab a bag of Tomato-Tone NPK 4--6-6, or any organic fertilizer with big number 6 or above for the last digit (potassium). Tomato Tone is sold out fast at Walmart, it's 5 lbs. for $10. Since potassium mobility is a 3, somewhat slow, it's best to put that in the planting hole. If your hole is 18 feet by 12 feet, it's safe to use 2 cups of tomato tone, plus 1 cup gypsum (calcium sulfate) in the planting hole. Roots need both calcium and potassium, plus a bit of phosphorus to get big & solid. The EarthGro humus & compost sold cheap at Walmart for $1.29 per 40 lb. bag .. that's good for the planting hole .. will provide phosphorus for years.