Houseplant difficulty levels: a survey
mr_subjunctive
16 years ago
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mr_subjunctive
16 years agoplants4chris
16 years agoRelated Discussions
challenging houseplant
Comments (14)The stuff that's both above 5.0 on the rating and not on the list yet (because I haven't done a profile for them): 8.8 Ravenea rivularis (majesty palm) 8.3 Alocasia 'Polly' (African mask plant) 8.0 Musa spp. (banana) 7.6 Rhododendron spp. (azalea) 7.5 Fittonia vershaffeltii (nerve plant) 7.4 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (hibiscus) 7.3 Polyscias fruticosa (aralia) 7.1 Begonia rex (rex begonia) 7.1 Adiantum spp. (maidenhair fern) 7.0 Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen) 6.9 Caladium bicolor (caladium, angel wing) 6.7 Stromanthe spp. 6.7 Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm; people will disagree with me on this, but parlor palms haaaaaaaaaate me) 6.5 Cordyline terminalis (ti plant) 6.2 Saintpaulia spp. (African violet) 6.1 Hedera helix (English ivy) 6.1 Dracaena reflexa (Song of India) 5.9 Schefflera actinophylla 5.8 Cordyline glauca 5.8 Davallia trichomanoides (rabbits-foot fern) 5.5 Radermachera sinica (china doll) 5.0 Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine) 5.0 Caryota mitis (fishtail palm) Please be advised that the numbers are a lot less precise than they look. Some of the rating, for example, is for how much bright light is required. If you've got a lot of bright light, that part becomes irrelevant. Similarly, some of the rating is about susceptibility to pests, which is something that won't be relevant unless you get some pests in your home. I personally don't go any higher than 7.8 (Coffea arabica and Dizygotheca elegantissima) right now. Not actually having any problems with either of those at the moment, but I'd be fine to stay below 7.0, I think, really. Also: thanks for the link (jefe12234) and praise (arjadiejai). I appreciate it. It's nice to get feedback....See MoreWhy Houseplant Forum So Quiet?
Comments (32)Asleep, lol. Ohh, poor plants. I've come to the conclusion Mother Nature is Wicked. :) Spiders are not my friend...lol. Especially thick-bodied-legged types and Recluse. Yikes!!! I have no idea what these creatures are eating. Christmas/Halloween decorations are kept in a basement closet. There's some nasty-looking spiders residing in the boxes/floors. What could they possibly eat? BTW, I haven't decorated because of these creepy-crawlers. lol. So far, I've exterminated two, thick-bodied spiders and a 4" millipede. Death by fly-swatter. Too bad Iguana's dislike spiders... If, in a future life, I'm reincarnated as a spider, I'll stay out of your bed. Heck, if I was a spider, I'd commit suicide....See MoreFascinating soil discussion on the Houseplants Forum
Comments (7)The perched water table happens no matter what is in the soil mix unless all the particles are uniformly large I disagree. Watering most soil mixes when they are very dry results in only a limited amount of water being retained. With a second watering after a few minutes, more water will be retained. You can demonstrate this very easily by watering a completely dry pot of soil in a saucer until the saucer is full and then leaving it for an hour. Chance are the saucer will be partially or completely emptied when you come back. Exact results depend on your soil mix but it happens to some extent in any dry soil. What happens with that first watering is that some water is retained around some particles, saturated at the bottom by some definitions since water drains through, but that doesn't mean zero air. The water them migrates over the following minutes or maybe hours into small pores in the coarse material and into the layer structure of clay material, or into the internal structure of organic materials like peat and bark, even moves to higher levels in the soil as they suck in the water. All of the sudden there is no perched water table, you could add more water to the soil without it draining through. I have never seen any experimental work published on this but it certainly occurs and is easy to verify, I just don't know whether it means we usually do or usually don't have perched water tables in our succulent pots. In some summer-growing succulents which are heavily watered and not allowed to completely dry there almost certainly is a perched water table at some times, but again I don't agree that this means zero air in the soil mixes which are often used. Presumably this is part of the reason why we stick so much grit in our soils. Winter growing mesembs I almost never water to the point of runoff. Or maybe cacti don't mind a perched water table. Possible reasons would be that they area adapted to saturated soils for relatively short periods, some certainly experience periodic flooding in habitat. Or the structure of a "good" cactus mix may be such that sufficient air remains in the mix even in the area of the perched water table to prevent the kind of root rots which would occur in an anoxic soil. Or maybe we use watering practices which only create a perched water table when the plant is thirsty enough to drain it, or weather conditions will evaporate it. I absolutely use top dressings. I don't allow the bodies of succulents like Lithops to be in contact with the proper soil, that's death in my climate. Not being able to see the soil is something I just have to live with. But top dressings vary a lot. Some wick up water much more than others although obviously all retain a high proportion of air spaces. Some types of top dressing seem to increase evaporation. Experiment with fine clay granules on the surface of the soil, they continually wick up water and remain moist until the soil mix is completely dry. I also use loam based soils. They do degrade over time. The most obvious thing is that the initial fertiliser load runs out after a few months or maybe a couple of years depending on the plant and how you water it. The soils also do compact down over weeks or months. It is easy to see the soil level drop if you don't compact it down when you pot the plant, less obvious if you squashed it down to start with. Lastly, over a period of years the clay component of the soil washes out. Unpot a Lithops after ten or twenty years in the same pot and there will be just be sand and gravel, it won't be like soil at all. Although I use a loam-based soil, the make-up of that soil includes something like 20% organic material and in practice that is usually peat. Add in an equal amount of aggregate and I have a soil mix that is 10% peat. At these levels the soil does not behave like an organic soil but it does provide for better retention of nutrients, as if I needed it with the clay in the loam and the baked clay granules! Salt buildup can occur regardless of how you fertilise, simply from minerals in the water. For most of us, the vast majority of the water we put on our succulents simply evaporates, any fertiliser or minerals in hard water are just left in the soil. I have quite soft water and the soil I use has a decent initial fertiliser load so I don't fertilise much either. I have never experienced salt buildup, even with the non-flushing watering that I use on most mesembs most of them time. While completely dry soil may mean root death, after a sufficient length of time anyway, this is almost inevitable in my climate and just something I have to deal with. It is simply not practical to provide water every few weeks to most cacti over winter, and certainly not to Lithops. Lithops lose their fine roots and regrow them in the spring, they seem to be very good at it. Many cacti deal with it well, some don't. Some species don't seem to be adapted to going completely dry for months at a time. When people talk about cacti that "lost their roots" over winter, they are usually talking just about the ones which rotted because they didn't grow their roots back in spring :)...See MoreQuestions on the accuracy of surveyor pins and surveys.
Comments (16)The question I have is about the accuracy of old surveys, and where the legality is. The most extreme example of this is the old description of a county boundary. This is describing a boundary creating a new county out of part of Clinton County: "Be it enacted by the People of the State of New York represented in Senate and Assembly, That all of that part of the County of Clinton lying south of a line beginning at the south west corner of the town of Peru, and running from thence easterly along the south line of said town until it intersects the great river Ausable, from thence along the north bank of the south branch of said river until it strikes Lake Champlain...". (The text here continues for quite awhile, but my point is made here). The point is that now, that county line runs at an azimuth of approximately 83 degrees (due east is 90 degrees). This Act was passed in 1799. I thought that the surveyors then didn't know about magnetic declination, and that these descriptions were based on magnetic north, not geographic north, as modern surveys are made, but the error is about 7 degrees, while the magnetic declination correction was about 11 degrees then (in 1983 it was 14 degrees 3 minutes). So, I have two general questions: 1. in such cases as this, were subsequent acts passed to correct the description? I assume that the original description is recognized as being in error. 2. Or, are the monuments placed in 1799 now the defining description and a new survey would (and probably was) made to give the precise description. I attach below the map of the new county: I apologize for hijacking this thread, but I could not figure out how to create a new one for this subject. Now, I copy here a portion of the deed for some property I purchased in 2013: "ALL THAT CERTAIN PARCEL OF LAND being located in the Town of Elizabethtown, County of Essex, State of New York, being part of the property described.... BEGINNING at a found 3/4" iron rod in concrete 0.1' below grade located at the northwest corner of the herein described parcel and the southwest corner of (someone else's property), said iron rod being located on the easterly assumed road bounds of .... road, as shown on Essex County File Map No. ---, said iron rod being also located S20*59'01" as referenced to New York State Grid North by 1983 Datum by GPS observations a distance of 250.34 feet along said rod bound from a capped iron road locate at the southwest corner of (someone else's property) and running: 1....." Following here is the description of the entire plot, ending with "7. N20*01'25" E 303.43 feet to the point of the beginning containing 15.0 acres, more or less, with the above described bounds." The two points I make here is the reference to "found rods", and the quoted accuracy of the measurements. Can a surveyor make measurements this accurate? The distances are quoted to 1/100 of a foot, which is about an eighth of an inch, and do typical surveying instruments even register one second of arc? Comments from professional surveyors, please....See Moremicke
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