If your ordering online your better to stay with the small seedlings. We container grow all our stock but the cost to ship a mature fruit bearing tree is ridiculous, not to mention the shock the tree would go through. Everything we grow are adapted to lower desert areas and all the 15 gallon and boxed stock is only sold as a "Local Pick Up" Your best bet to to find a local growers that has access to what you want Here is a link that might be useful: RSI Growers

June 24, 2015 same problem here, we live about 40 minutes West of Milwaukee WI., the plants produced tons of blossoms, set fruit, today looked at them and again all dried up and shriveled. Plants are in good condition, we water, last year I put something on the garden center recommended, I thinned and pruned this Spring. And again, NO FRUIT. This bed is about 7 to 8 years old and I am so disheartened again this year after all my work last year. I even spent $1,000 to take down two tall trees to give lots more sunshine. We grow pumpkins and winter squash in garden adjunct, and they do well. Would appreciate any ideas. We will most likely do in the bed this fall and get rid of them all together. For all the hard work and money and time spent, I can buy a lot of raspberries. Thanks Bonnee

Thanks, Mike. I hope I'm posting this right. I have no idea if he might be a cutting. I dug around a little at the base and I don't see an obvious graft, but just because I don't recognize it doesn't mean it didn't happen! I've been top dressing every so often with composted manure and plain old compost and a little worm casting tea a couple of times. He dropped his leaves once about a year ago because he was too wet, and that was when I repotted him in the citrus mix. He came back fast after that. In the summer (we're zone 5) he sits on a SW corner of the patio that is sunny all day. I acclimate him to that location, of course. In the winter, he has a west facing window right next to him and a south facing window a few feet away. I haven't been giving him extra light, but maybe I should. I have a container fig that will join him inside this year, so it's probably time to think about more light. Our indoor temps are right around 68, but he's in a window, so probably cooler.

Alright I had to get in on this. I live in North Houston, Kingwood area with a 9a climate, grow mangos, tamarinds, kumquats, N33E oranges, purple and banana passionfruits, key limes, calomandins, jackfruit, dragon fruit, and various others but those are my most proud plants. Let me start with this, in this area I can go and take pictures tomorrow of lemon trees growing wild in Kingwood and New Caney, then in Crosby I know of a blood orange growing wild in the woods. If you update your information you'll quickly find out that meyers lemons, Persian and Mexican limes, kumquats,calmansi/calomandin, and sour oranges are the most cold hardy. Don't water any tropical fruit plant during winter if you're in a 9a and above, even 9b is kinda skeptical. Wait until temperatures don't dip below 60 to water them. The hotter it gets, the more you water, BUT DON'T FLOOD. I do not even use fertilizers, i simply prepare a good humus, compost, sandy, and peat moss soil... All natural for my babies, haha. After 2 years take the top 6 inches off and replace it. As you water, these nutrients will reach the bottom. My key lime fruited in its' first year. During winter take them in if you're in a 9b and above. Now for the burn comment, no. We're talking about tropicals here, as long as you keep the soil moist, not soggy, you'll keep a "tropical" climate for the roots and not a desert one. Trust me, I know all too well about our "sonic cup melting" summers haha. Another thing, as long as your plant has thick leaves usually, not always, the general rule of thumb is it can handle a sun burn. Good luck to y'all and good planting.