Yep. Ther are several variations of Green Glaze out there. Southern Exposure has one developed by Jeff McCormack which is also known as Cascade Glade. This one is a variation of the Original Landreth Green Glaze sold by Seeds by Design. The original was developed from the 19th century Green Glaze cabbage. It is shiny but a much lighter green. I have not grown McCormacks version, so it could be a possibilty if someone was harvesting from the bottom. Here is a link that might be useful: Cascade Glaze

I'm an avid orchid grower and a few odds and ends thrown in. I use cinnamon for all cuts and 'rotting' spots or damage spots. Cinnamon will burn orchid roots. I don't care to spray for anything. It just goes everywhere and then there are the airborne particles to contend with. I go with a drench. I use Merit 75, which is expensive but will last me a lifetime. I use it as a drench. 1/8 teaspoon to a gallon of water and drench the soil/medium. Now, I have used it on orchids and hoyas and succulents. But not on anything else. This year, I will be applying it to all my plants which will include the arrow leaf plant, table palms, coffee plant, bird of paradise, and a few others (sorry I have no specific names for my plants). I also relate this as I do not know if there are plants sensitive to this product. I drench by watering the plants medium/soil once a week for three weeks in a row and an extra week if I have mealies. The plants take the product up through their roots and into all parts. The insect bites and takes the toxin into its system and dies. You don't have to worry that you have not 'gotten' all the parts nor do you have to worry about scale on the roots or hidden on the plant. No dripping leaves, or wet walls/floors or airborne particles. All in one place - the soil and IN the plant.

Just Googled it. It sure does! I guess that's what it must be. Thanks a bunch! ^_^

Has anyone considered planting depth being the cause of this slow growth problem... I feel this could be a possibility due to the fact that some poeple overmulch to protect for the winter and so on. I had an issue with a whole lot of cannas(related to bananas) that I purchased and planted for my mom. It looked to me that I planted them to the proper depth(I purchased these in 1 gallon pots with about 1 ft tall plants in them). I planted them to the soil line then then put a thick layer of mulch around the base. About 6 weeks later these cannas did nothing at all, like they were frozen in time. Then my mom dug one up and determined that they were too deep. She raised all of them by 1/2 inches then they shot up. I am not exagerating when I say in 1 week after raising them up they were 2 ft tall. And 1 month after raising them they were anywhere from 4-6 feet tall. This is the best guess I have. And of course you will want to consider fertilizing frequent since bananas are heavy feeders and do not let the soild dry out completely until November/December. If you do no want to use synthetic fertilizers then mix 50/50 dried leaves and grass cuttings then water and flip daily til it composts(should be 2 weeks to a month in the summer). The grass clippings add some great nitrogen content to the compost. Anyone who has more than one of these slow growing bananas consider my advice about raising them slightly with at least one of these plants then post when this works(I am pretty confident after seeing the cannas perform prior and post raising). -David peanut01