Only certain varieties of sweet corn will have their flavor affected by a nearby field corn planting. These are the ones labeled "super-sweet," "sugar-enhanced," etc. That's why some of the advice above is incorrect -- though it would be true for "ordinary" vegetables (and non-enhanced varieties of sweet corn, for that matter). You could try timing your planting to avoid cross-pollination, but I wouldn't rely on starting indoors; direct-sown corn catches up quickly to transplanted. Or simply plant a variety of sweet corn that doesn't become starchy if cross-pollinated. Some people prefer these; their disadvantage is that the corn must be eaten very quickly after harvest, while the enhanced varieties can keep their sugar for days. Here is a link that might be useful: Sweet corn

For seeding, as in for transplant later. Or to grow in permanently? I use #72 cell packs for my corn, sowing either 2 or 3 kernels per cell depending upon variety. I generally thin to 2 plants when I plant it out. I have to water usually just once a day in this size cell, sometimes twice if hot and sunny, or every other day if dark and cool. Transplant out at about 6 to 8 inches tall. Works very well.

Does not matter if you are growing for food. Neither Su's or Se's require isolation. If you planning on saving seed from Bantam I would suggest isolation by time. Your garden is not really big enoght to isolate by distance. Stagger your plantings so that the Bantam is the only one tasseling at a given point in time.

Good idea about shattering, George, I hadn't thought about that one. The problem is more likely to occur if the dry pods are not harvested promptly. Some limas are very prone to shattering... can't remember if I ever had that problem with K.O.G. when I grew it in SoCal. Yes, Happy, I was referring to "Days to Maturity", from date planted to date dry seed is harvested. "Hopi Pole" comes in around 115 DTM, vice about 85 for "Sieva" and 95-100 for "King of the Garden". That's a 30-day spread, which is a world of difference in my neck of the (north)woods. The DTM for green-shelled limas is generally about 7-10 days earlier. A Julian calendar is handy for figuring out DTM. It should be pointed out that DTM can be deceptive, when compared to the length of the local growing season. For heat-loving plants (including limas) only the warm days count. Once night temps drop below about 50 degrees F., growth pretty much stops. "Hopi Pole" is a real challenge for my growing season, since I can only depend upon about 100-110 warm days most years. It was direct-seeded the first time I grew it, and was just beginning to bear when the frost came. I harvested only a cup or two of dry seed from a 30' row; over 90% of the pods (and it was a very heavy pod set) were left rotting on the vine... really frustrating. This year, with transplants, the harvest (dry seed + shellies) was close to 50%. Obviously, it's poorly adapted here; but I love the rich flavor. Given their relative DTM's, the fact that I was able to succeed with "Hopi Pole" transplants this year gives me real hope for a good harvest from K.O.G. next year. Jimster, that could be the edge you need as well. Transplants might even be helpful in parts of Missouri, although limas should succeed as direct seed from about mid-Illinois southward. You know, it's curious... I've never seen or heard of a half-runner lima. Is there such a thing? It seems they are either bushes, or rampant vines, with nothing in between. The least vigorous pole lima I've grown was equal to the most vigorous common pole bean... and the most vigorous pole limas were real monsters.