fake rock photos - quickwall/mesh or concrete/mesh
ltd123
18 years ago
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rickharmer
18 years agoFleur
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Concreting a Wicker Chair
Comments (8)Amanda...what a great looking old chair. No wonder you want to save it. However, unless you plan on three inches of concrete all around, I would strongly suggest adding some rebar in several critical areas, then a layer of stucco lath before concreteing. The bamboo won't last long in all that alkalai and I'd hate to see it lost after just one season. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it won't take that much more than you've already planned. Just try and bend and wire some 3/8 ths rebar right to the bamboo following the existing shape. If you place a length of rebar along each of the major bamboo sections and wire them together everywhere they meet, you'll have an heirloom garden piece anyone would be proud of. With rebar and lath, you can probably get by with an 3/4's to an inch of concrete on each side. Good luck and keep us posted. Oh...and you might want to add a drainhole in the seat....See Morebasalt rocks
Comments (18)Justin, Well I like the rocks, but being my own self imposed critic I will consider something else next time. These are too bland, and my fault for not adding some extra crags and lines! Next time the aluminum foil comes out to press against the wet surface, and some extra surface work, well before any stain goes on. The stains I used after a couple weeks: Concrete coatings inc. Bronze green,(creates the browns, greens and mid tones all in one application reacting with the different minerals and layers of the mix you put on), Then I used a Kemiko English Red in some places, same thing the color varies dependent on curing of the mix. A couple things. These are mild acid etches, I dilute 1:1 with water, brush on, and rag off. If the etch is new it will bubble on the surface. I then rinse the piece really well with water, you can also give it a baking soda bath to neutralize, but I haven't needed too. Rinse several times. Clean up your brushes and containers. Kemiko and Concrete Coatings both offer excellent how to information on their sites Let everything dry, I have sealed them with Tamms WB 150. Hope that helps, Dena...See MoreQuestion on new sphere- concrete ice cubes
Comments (21)Hi andreae, The link above that tamahlee has posted for you has some very good instruction. Here's how I did mine: My DH and I have been working on three (3 coat)Spheres, so far so good although we did have a problem with the last one getting some cracks with the first coat - well lets start from the beginning. Blow up you ball(don't under or over inflate to much) place the ball on/in a very large (weighted) bowl/bucket, we used a 14"-16" plastic wallyworld beach ball. DH didn't think the crete would stick on this shiny of a surface so we put strips of fiber mesh tape on first this has a some what sticky surface (the proper way is to put your mud on first then press in the fiber mesh). I then added layer of "Fortified Thin-set Mortar"-this stuff is very sticky so if you plan to use this stuff use an old metal spatula to smooth it on. Then while still very tacky take your gloved hand and smooth the surface, a small foam paint brush works great also. Cover the ball with plastic wrap so it don't dry to quickly, as this will cause cracks. When it starts to look/feel dry lightly mist. Important keep damp. After 1-or 2 days you can carefully turn the ball over then do the other end. My DH thought for strength for the 2nd. coat to use a coat of Portland so this is what we did. Third coat the Thin-Set Mortar. We did plan to make only one, but the beach ball still in good shape, we made 3 lol. One for a fountain on bird-bath stand, one a mister/light on a short stand and the third one will be just a Sphere on a short post or basin. Still have some wet sanding to do on all three then must decide to paint, stain or leave as is. Even though the last one cracked some on the first upper half I was able to save by adding a light coat of the Thin-Set mix before this first (damaged)coat was completely dry. Wendy...See MoreHow many people could fit on a fake rock?
Comments (7)My motivation for wanting the fake rock to hold a lot of weight comes from my first experience with one. Last spring I made a small rock (maybe 20 by 20 by 12 high). It was a success looks-wise. (I hadn't heard of mesh back then - this was concrete over chickenwire). I wanted it very light so I could move it easily. Until then I hadn't thought how tempting it is to stand on a rock. I just wanted it to be pretty. I would place the lovely thing strategically among my plants or a fence.... testing just where it would look best. Later, (like an hour) I would forget the rock was fake and would stand on it or at least put one foot on it to get a better position for digging or to get a few inches higher to reach something...... I kept making dents and cracks in my fake rock! It was an interesting experience to find how much my lifelong expectation that rocks are solid enough to climb on superceded my knowledge that I had just made the silly thing and that I had cracked it already by stepping on it the day before! Not wanting to believe I was the dumbest person on earth, I decided it was a universal human trait to step on rocks without considering they might be weak fakes. I didn't want to trick people into injuring themselves and I couldn't think of anyway to prevent people sitting or standing on the things. That is why I decided to halt the rock-making til I could come up with a technique that was light enough to move easily but so strong 2 or 3 people could stand on it at once. whew, that went on and on. More later, but - Rick - no question this works well enough for 1 person to stand on. I alternate quickwall with my regular Portland/sand/bonding liquid/fibers and have the same results. I think of Quickwall as a white version of the above. I don't think Quickwall is necessary. Laura...See Morerain1950
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