stem rot on kale - what can I do?

13 years ago

Hello everyone,

Hoping someone has some advice for me.

One of Red Russian kale plants started wilting a few weeks back and I thought it was just too hot out for it. I didn't have a lot of time to pay attention and I went out again and all the sudden it seemed the stem had rotted (mushy and disintegrated right through) at the soil line.

I removed the plant and tried to figure out what it was and from what I could tell, it's probably stem rot. I've got some broccoli getting yellow leaves and wilting at the bottom near it too and another Red Russian kale plant doesn't look so good. So far the Blue Dwarf kale nearby looks fine though.

Is there anything I can do to prevent this from getting worse? My brassicas are usually so resilient, this is the first year I've ever had problems other than slugs. :(

I love kale, do you think I could start a from seed again in a new location (probably a pot) and it wouldn't get sick so I can have kale into the late fall again?

Thanks for the advice.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (9)

hoodat
13 years ago
I've never had any results trying to treat a plot which already has black rot except to keep brassicas out of it for a year or two. Moving to new ground is the best way. be sure to sterilize any tools you used there with a strong chlorine/water solution so you don't spead it to the new plot.
m_lorne
13 years ago
Is the stem rot being caused by any larvae that you can see? My spring kale and broccoli eventually give in to the cabbage moth larvae. For fall planting, netting is even more essential than with spring.

Michael
Related Discussions
21 degrees tonight - what do I do with the lettuce, beets, kale?
Q
Comments (5)
Well, it went down to 19F last night - brrrrr! My lettuce did OK under the row cover, but looks a bit wilted. The kale (and Brussels sprout) leaves are limp, but I cut some off, put them in water inside and they are fine. I'll make bean soup with them tonight. The Brussels sprouts themselves are also fine. The beets and beet greens did surprisingly well. Nice to see so many things survive a (very) hard frost. I attached a link to a cool webpage that I found. It has the minimum temps for fall vegetables and what plants store well in the garden or overwinter to grow in the spring. Thanks for the responses! Bellatrix Here is a link that might be useful: Minimum temperatures for vegetables
...See More
Rotted Stapelia Gigantea, What do I do?
Q
Comments (6)
Amnyrd and Norma, For this plant, it's actually best to insert them into the soil slightly, with the stems supported by rocks, and mist them only until gowth is evident. You might see some this fall/winter but it won't be until Spring 2010 that this plant will take off. Since I was answering a question at The Other Place, this picture taken by another member (8th one down) demonstrates that this plant can be grown for fun and profit, as well as a slight mustiness and amply demonstrates as well that it's grown best when fussed with least. Here is a link that might be useful: Carrion My Wayward Stap
...See More
What causes stem rot or root rot?
Q
Comments (2)
Its hard to say with any certainty what is the cause. The typical reason is related to being too wet or too heavy of a soil mix. Which based on your description was unlikely. There could be other reasons beyond that like a bad cutting (rot was not apparent but was already there), bad cut (not properly callused), and/or seasonal issues (too cool and not during growing season). Sorry but that may be the best I can say. My preference is to start cuttings in the springtime on a heat mat with natural light. IMO light is less important than warmth.
...See More
Can you save a succulent that's rotted at the end of the stem?
Q
Comments (11)
Sorry, but photo is too blurry and dark to tell. Can you take clear close up of the plant after you shake off all the soil?
...See More
chervena_chuska
Original Author
13 years ago
I've got three raised beds in a very small yard so crop rotation seems like it will be a challenge. I can grow in the next bed over next year, but it's only about 4 to 10 feet away. Anything I can treat with to help deal with the problem now?

Is Pyola good for addressing insect problems? I didn't see any larvae, but I did see dozens of tiny, pinpoint sized circular red insects on the plant before it really keeled over. I had to look really close to see them. I don't see those on my other brassicas at the moment.
hoodat
13 years ago
Those sound like red mites. They are one of the few mites large enough to be seen easily. It's doubtful they caused the damage. They are probably there feeding on the decaying tissue.
chervena_chuska
Original Author
13 years ago
Well, I did a big cleanout and pulled out a bunch of sick plants yesterday. Down to 2 broccoli that have a couple sick leaves and 3 kale that still look ok. Should I pull these out of the bed too anyway to avoid establishing this disease more?

I won't plant brassicas in that bed for a couple years, but I have a tiny yard. Would it be ok to plant in the bed about 10-15 feet away next year (never had any crucifers).

Also, wondering about my compost tumbler now. I think I might have tossed in a couple wilted broccoli leaves here and there before I realized this was a real problem. Can I still use this compost in an area where brassicas won't be planted (like a new strawberry plot I was going to put in)?

Also, should I disinfected the tumbler with a 10% bleach solution just in case?

Can this organic debris be composted in a pile that gets really hot, like the community compost pile? I know my pile doesn't get hot enough. I'd like to keep organic matter out of the landfill but I don't want to spread this disease to unsuspecting folks either.

Bummed.
sandhill_farms
13 years ago
Can you buy some pots and garden that way until you can get your gardening plots straightened-out?

Greg
Southern Nevada
chervena_chuska
Original Author
13 years ago
I have 3 large raised beds in a small yard. Only one bed has my brassicas and therefore the black rot problem. I'm prepared to not anything vulnerable in that bed for 2 years.

In that case, planting in the raised bed 10 feet away from that pot would be the same as planting in a pot 10 feet away right?

I'm wondering how to best carry out clean up NOW to minimize the disease lingering or spreading to new plants NEXT year.

Next year or still for this year, I suppose I could possibly put new brassicas in the front yard in pots or a take over a little flower bed if I really should avoid the back yard entirely due to physical proximity to the raised bed that had the sick brassicas.

Sorry that this is confusing. It's hard to rotate in my small yard and this is the most serious crop disease I've ever had, so I just want to be careful.
hoodat
13 years ago
I'd just go ahead and use the tumbler compost on the bed that already has the rot. It would be a shame to waste good compost. There are plenty of things you can plant there that are not likely to be affected by the same disease that hits brassicas. Fava beans, snap or snow peas come to mind. Even mustard, although closely related to brassicas doesn't seem to get the rot. Growing something immune in the bed will help it clear faster.
It may be a good idea to dunk your tools in a bucket with a clorox solution and not use them in the infected bed till it is cleared up. If you want to sterilize your tumbler you can wad up a batch of newspaper and soak it down with clorox and then tumble it a few times.
qkrick2
8 years ago
I also have this stem rot, but I don't understand how it can be the soil. I am growing in fresh soiless medium, (peat moss, Black Cow, perlite, lime, epsion salt), in a growbag, watered from the bottom in a kiddie pool.