Side, the drawing is a little off - the door actually clears the toilet by about 1.5". :) It's a New York bathroom! Anyway, thanks Bill - I realize this is something the tile guy/contractor should do but in my case, I am responsible for buying all the materials and such, and he's just going to do the actual work, so I'm measuring for myself. There is no tub deck. The contractor is going to build a wall for alcove installation - hopefully it will be a knee wall with glass above, if I can afford the glass. If not, it'll be a full wall, which will of course require more tile. Thank you for the measurements - I'm not quite sure what you mean by bullnose on the 3" side. Does that mean that each outer corner will need to have bullnosed tile all the way up and down? That's what I assumed but I wasn't sure. Inner corners don't require anything special, right? Thanks for your help!

Thankyou all for your replies and sorry for the delay in answerinf. I could not find my thread and thought I did not post it after preview! I will try to answer the questions raised. sue_ct: > What is that 42 x 24 L shape in the second section and is there any counter there ? There is no counter there,that is where the fridge goes. The counter in the bottom L starts from below the range so its 72" x 55 inches, with a standard countertop depth. >Is any backsplash included? I dont know, I did not ask for one, as I am probably going with tile. But if they included it -no one has specidied it in their bid > Are you including granite around the outside corner of the 55x72 area where the brackets are? That would be considered a radius corner. Yes its included, but it is not a curved corner. This one was not a problem, as all the ppl I talked to said its the same to them if its a curved corner or rounded. And its considered a radius corner only if there is an arc with a radius. > The area past the range - is that one unbroken piece of granite from the interior edge of L over the cabinets to the outside of the "L" with the overhang, or is there a wall or partition of some type that would make that two pieces? One unbroken piece of granite. No wall, just the overhanf. > I also don't know how to figure those corner pieces, but they may be done differently by different fabricators. In addition, they are usually considered radius cuts, I think, and there is an extra charge per radius cut, also. I did not ask for minimal seams. All of them seem to have assumed that. >Are they all charging for the same edge with same number of linear feet of finished edging? No idea. I send them the layout and they send me a number back. Not more specific thant that. > Do you want the most unbroken installation with the least seams possible or are you willing to piece it all from the smallest number of slabs to get the lowest number of square feet needed, the least waste and the best price for that type of granite? I think the price is probably the most important thing for me here.I dont mind having seams as long as they are well done. >Try getting some quotes by email, be sure to specify cutouts, overhangs, type of edge, backasplash or no backplash and ask for an idea of how many seams would be required. That is a helpful suggestion. I will be sure to specify all that going forward along with sending them my la I do look at everything with a microscope and like to see how my hard earned money is being spent. I am unfortunately not as trusting as you are on these matters. I prefer to see exactly why they have come up with the numbers and really dislike being "sold" to. I can bet you each of those fabricators will do that for whatever service THEY are buying! I just want them to be straightforward. I dont see what it should be so difficult. I am not going to be micro calculating if they do by square feet or by slab. But since I last posted, the max variation in pricing has been a 100% (!) between the average and the higher end quotes for the same kitchen, for the same granite. I have two sink cutouts and the simplest edge they can make and no backsplash. This variation is very disturbing - because either all the average priced guys are crap or the higher end guys are just asking for whatever and seeing if I bite. :( sherilynn: I think that the fabricator that deals with HD around here does not deal with homwowners directly. So I am out of luck on that one. I will however be checking out Costco. I dont know how good they are. The problem is I see good reviews and bad reviews and references dont mean much because nobody will give you bad references and your job could be the one that they mess up. I have been reading the granite tales on this forum and its made me quite apprehensive. I am also considering some of those one man shows, who have worked with stone for donkeys years without newer fancier machines. I figure they could use my business and I could use their hard earned skill. azstoneconsulting: I definitely agree that the best price does not mean the best deal. But neither does the most expensive mean that you will get a good deal. There seems to be no substitute to educating oneself. How do I know what good quality is if I am a lay person ? Thanks all for replying Ani

So how do we know that the drop match is 27 inches? How long is your bathroom. How wide is your bathroom? Did you arrive at the 27 feet by adding the four walls? If so, then multiplying by the 8-ft ceiling is correct. JMHO, but whoever wants to sell you 7 double rolls is wanting to sell more and whomever told you 3-1/2 double rolls (or 7 single rolls) is probably wrong. I think 5 double rolls is about right. Each wallpaper bolt (2 single rolls in most cases, 3 in very odd cases) will tell you what area in square feet it covers. Now if you have tile on the walls, you can subtract for that. If you have doors, windows, you can subtract for that. I just did a friend's 240 square ft bathroom using 5 double rolls and she had a 23-inch repeat. We had paper left over, about 1 double roll. Another factor is the paperhanger. Some will try to save your paper, whereas others will cut one length at a time and not care about wasting it. Good paperhangers, all, does not matter, will waste or save. I am going to say your wallpaper store probably is the most correct. Most companies encourage you to buy more for waste as sometimes, even experienced paper hangers will measure wrong, cut wrong, etc., and then if you have to order more paper, there is that chance the dye lots will not match.

Photos are useful but what we really need to see is a lay-out with dimensions. Photos require too much guessing on my part. For instance, looking at your photo, I estimated that you have about 96" between counters. Then I saw that you posted that your room is 12' wide and I realized that you have only 93" between counters and even less than that between appliances. Not that those 3" matter because at 93" or 96", your kitchen isn't wide enough to accommodate a skinny island, much less a kitchen table, not if you wish to have decent aisles. NKBA recommended aisle width for a one-cook kitchen is 42" and 48" for a two-cook kitchen. You can go with as little as 36" for one aisle but it's not recommended to go with aisles narrower than that or even all your aisles at 36" because that makes for tight work spaces (open fridge, range or DW door and you block the aisle). NKBA recommends 44" aisles around a table if you wish to walk behind diners and 36" aisles if you wish to squeeze behind diners. But you need to watch what appliances open into that space. You wouldn't - at least I wouldn't - want 36" between table and range, that would be unsafe. The kitchen in your inspiration pic is much wider than your kitchen. It's at least 40" wider, quite possibly more (as I wrote, photos require too much guessing). But don't despair. Post your lay-out with dimensions (see instructions at the link below) and we may be able to find a way to help you achieve a look similar to your inspiration kitchen. Here is a link that might be useful: New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me!