Try air-layering. I have had good success with air-layering 1-year old branch of Evan Cherry tree. It rooted in 6~7 weeks when I air-layered with no complications. I am in Zone 5.

I'd try air-layering, but you could also try the 'toothpick trick', recommended years ago by someone over at the Plant Propagation forum(I've got a hard copy somewhere in the files at my office, and but I can't find the thread with a GW search.
Here's how it worked, as best I can recall:
In early to mid-July, pick spots (on several branches) just above where this current year's growth commenced, and make a stab incision all the way through the stem with the blade of your pocketknife/penknife/grafting knife. Insert a common wooden toothpick into the incision to hold it 'open'. Callus tissue(which can give rise to root primordia) will form at the site of the wound, as the tree begins its attempts at closing the wound. Then in early to mid-November, after leaves drop, snip the twig off just below the 'joint' where growth commenced this spring, snip off or pull out the toothpick, dust or dip in rooting hormone and stick the cuttings in your choice of soilless potting medium. I'd sink the pot in the ground for the winter - the original poster sometimes just stuck hers in the ground, and claimed to have good success rates with almost any hardwood species.
I suspect that if it works, I'd leave my cuttings in place for a full growing season before I disturbed them to pot them up to a larger pot or transplant to a permanent location.

Probably best to burry about 6" deeper then graft, but don't cover the graft with soil, I would cover in the fall,
it's just so the tree grows better this way, [warmer soil] better sun heat penetration.
You could also do a bridge graft with Evans, from far down the root stock to the Evans graft about on 3 places.

Konrad

Lucky_p
The airlayering method I mentioned is the same as you described (by inserting the toothpick in a cut or removing bark in circular strip) and covering the wounded area with rooting medium and holding the rooting medium around the cut by using a method of your choice and keeping the rooting medium moist. You should have rooted tree in 6~8 weeks. You can cut it under the wounded area without disturbing the roots and repot it.
I did not mean air-layering on the ground. One can do airlayering on the ground for lower branches in the soil and keep it there rooting over a long period until one is ready to pot.

Question to Konrad: I had bought Evan Cherry from DNA Gardens in 2006. It came with some cherries. It fruited in 2007 and in 2008. This year I can see only 4 or 5 bloom buds. The same situation is with Northstar cherry.
What could be the reason? I don't think we had bad winter. The only thing that bloomed profusely is the Dura CHUM. Somehow the leafing on stone fruit trees is late too. Also, the leaf growth progress is not uniform over the branches. I am puzzled.

These are some helpful ideas. I hadn't considered bridge graffting, I suppose that would effectively lower the graft so that I wouldn't have to bury so deep, also the younger graft wood might root more effectively than the exisitng trunk which is probobly 4-5 years old. I guess I could also try air layering and then in-grafting that rooted stock next year...I have only done simple whip graft on branch ends before, so perhaps this is an opportunity to play with some new techniques.
To Konrad's point of doing full burial next year I was also thinking of setting the tree deeply but not filling the hole past several inches above present soil line on tree, then encasing the trunk in 6-8"diameter cardboard tube 12-14"inches up and filling that with soil to try and get some scion rooting this summer. Come fall, remove the tube and backfill the hole completely. It leaves two questions:
-how effectivelty will a 1" diameter cherry trunk scion root? Is there anything i can do to encourage it...cut/abrade and apply rooting powder?
-even with well drained soil would such a "pit planting" get waterlogged?

Or I could just sink the darn things deep and hope for the best.....which poses a last question...am I just wasting these things trying to do all this and would it be better to plant them horizontal and generate future stock to work with? What has been people's experience with the actual cold hardiness of the mazzard root stock?
thnaks for input

Ottawan,
It's hard to answer this, [different region] perhaps you can check with others in your area.
I find winter condition, the low temperatures, have a tree growing in my backyard, [town] last year I had still
lots of cherries on it, out of town in my orchard, out of about 50 trees, only a handful!
Flowerbuds get killed at around minus 35 - 40C., a dry fall, where all the wood can harden off is very good and
can help the flower buds survival!

I have several sweet cherries, I believe on mazzard and planted very deep, about 3 years now and still looking good.

Konrad

Rob,
My Evans/Bali is a tissue-cultured specimen - on its own roots - and suckers almost as prolifically as do the native Chickasaw plums(P.angustifolia). I've got a multitude of suckers - each a genetic clone of the original - popping up as far as 20 yards away from the main plant, which is declining steadily.
If you can get it to scion-root, or air-layer or root some cuttings, you may soon have more Evans trees than you can shake a stick at.

It's evidently a good fruiting selection for you folks in cold climates, but it's infinitely inferior to Montmorency here in my hot zone 6; it's a poor cropper here(I've seen Konrad's photos of fruit-laden branches - beautiful, but it doesn't do that here), and it's late enough that curculios damage it heavily.