in my book.. anything that interferes with the spigot.. is a weed ... and on that ID.. get rid of it ... lol ... ken ps: i kill them by the thousands in my yard.. do not let it flower ....

I've investigated dermatitis from house plants fairly extensively and none of the plants in your pics are known to cause casual contact dermatitis. Dracaena, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema or another Dieffenbachia. The latter two are Aroids, known for containing irritating alkaloids, but shouldn't bother anyone if the plant is not ruptured so the sap is exposed (according to the research I've done and anecdotes I've read.) The Dief is known to be irritating to mouth, lips if sap comes in contact with these areas. The sap of the Aglaonema could give someone a rash similar to poison ivy where sap has gotten on skin. None of these plants would have produced any pollen without a flower that you would have noticed. It's fairly rare for any of them to make a flower in the captivity of a pot. I've always had plants in the house even when there were babies here. Even if they are considered benign regarding poisoning from ingestion or contact dermatitis, plants and babies/small kids don't mix, just from the possibility of a big dirty mess. As long as they can be kept separate, no problem, though removing them from your home does eliminate any possibility of some kind of accident. IMO, your investigation into these plants is smart, but not the cause of whatever is irritating your baby. You've probably already thought of this, but I would be looking at cleaning/laundry products. Possibly a stuffed toy. Any pets? They can bring irritating substances inside on their fur.

Welcome to Arizona gardening. Its not required but recommended that your tomatoes either get afternoon shade or be protected from the afternoon sun with 50% shade cloth. I'm not sure how many bean plants you will need. I have not been as successful with them as some other members have been. I started a thread about tomatoes in the tomato forum that may be of help to you. The link is below. Peppers grow well here but do better with afternoon shade. From time to time a farmer will stop by and say they grow in Arizona without shade or shade cloth. Farming is different than vegetable gardening though. I drive by some farms on occasion that are not far from my home. Each time I do the temps drop as much as 5-10 degrees, sometimes more at night. A field full of peppers or tomatoes is evaporating massive amounts of water over a large area which drops the temperature and increases relative humidity. In my garden I can have 8 percent relative humidity at 110 degrees with a 15 mile an hour wind speed. At the same time in the farmers field its 99 degrees with 50 percent humidity with a 15 mile an hour wind. That dryer wind in the home garden in full afternoon sun can suck the life out of a plant. My main crops are squash, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and a few melons during the summer. If you click on the photo it will take you to my photobucket page where you can see more pictures. Here is a link that might be useful: What varieties will continue to produce through hot weather?

"If I put one pole bean plant every 24 inches will that plant branch out and produce more than 5 plants in the same 24 inches planted 6 inches apart." Probably not... but that would depend, in large part, upon the variety. Note the single plant of "Pole 191" below: This plant alone produced nearly a pound of dry seed! Less rampant varieties (such as "Fortex", "Emerite", "Trionfo Violetto") would probably benefit from the close spacing. I tested that theory with "Emerite" this year, which has been noted as a relatively low-yielding variety. When thinned to hills of 2@12" (same as one per 6"), it produced a spectacular yield - and is still bearing. Most half-runner varieties would likely give their best performance at this spacing as well. However, the more rampant varieties (such as "Goose", "Pole 191", "Kentucky Wonder", and "Garafal Oro") might be more than a little crowded. Their optimal spacing seems to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 12" between plants. For beans with the tendency to branch heavily, they will indeed spread out if given space... but 24" between plants would probably be excessive for most pole beans. To me, when planting in rows along a trellis, the optimal spacing for a variety is the widest that still produces an unbroken canopy of foliage at maturity. As a rule, while the yield per plant will be lower when plants are more closely spaced, the yield for a given area will be higher. This concept works well for farmers, since they need the maximum attainable yield per acre. They are not concerned with size, or quality... only bulk. Smaller ears of corn, for example, don't matter, as long as there are more of them. For gardeners, though, aesthetics matter. We want the largest, the most attractive, the most flavorful. For snap beans, crowded plants might produce more, but smaller, pods. I personally prefer the results of wider spacing, since it allows each variety to exhibit its true potential, and because I believe it produces larger & stronger seed... but if space is limited, that may not be an option. Yield aside, there are other considerations for pole bean spacing: - Beans are more prone to disease when the foliage becomes dense enough to block airflow; so in moist climates, or where disease is prevalent, wider spacing may be advisable. - Since close spacing may stunt the vines, it may be a desirable tactic if growing pole beans on a relatively short support, such as a 4-5' fence. - While the yield for a single picking of snap beans may be greater with close spacing, it may be less sustained. Years back, when I planted my beans closer together, I noticed that the vines "tired" soon after the first picking, regardless of variety. They would often bounce back later in the season, after a period of little to no yield... but with wider spacing, I usually have nearly continuous yield. The overall yield of snap beans for a given area - for the entire season - may be higher for plants given wider spacing; but I have, at present, no data to support this. It would be a really great experiment, but every picking throughout the season (for each spacing) would need to be harvested, weighed, and recorded - a truly arduous task, which is why I have never done it.