I think everything mentioned in here is pretty much all there is. Rutabaga also gets planted in around June and gets harvested around October/November. There is a variety of Cabbage I bought that will be planted in June. It's called, January King. It matures around January I think, and you can harvest it all through the winter up until the Spring. So if you plant a couple every week in June to July, you should be able to get fresh Cabbage all the way until it's time to plant them again!

I decided to try broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, and kohlrabi this spring here. The results were mixed. The kohlrabi were great, followed by cauliflower. Brussels Sprouts made sprouts, but were not very tasty, and I didn't get a single good broccoli. I started all of these from seed indoors in early January. I planted them outside around mid-February as soon as it warmed into the 50s for highs and was not freezing at night. I began harvesting these in late April until the end of May when it became too hot and they began getting fungal diseases. The cauliflower performed better than I expected. By the time the heads formed, temperatures were in the upper 70s and low 80s; however, they still formed nice heads. The broccoli made tiny heads at these temperatures, and I won't try them again in the spring. Also, the 60 to 70 day cauliflowers did better than the 90 day types (which I expected). If you try them, I would do mostly early types.

Most anything that doesn't require cool growing temperatures would be fine to put in now. Veggies that are ready for harvest before fall would open up room for later plantings of quick growing veggies that would ripen in the fall. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants could be planted now and should still be going strong in the fall. Decorative corn is a fall favorite in our school garden and should go in soon. The dried ears can be left on the stalks for a long time allowing many groups to view the crop. Lettuce, beets, and radishes could be planted now, harvested midsummer and replanted for another harvest in the fall. Plant some frost resistant veggies later in the summer so you have some plants that will last after the tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other warm weather crops freeze. Most of them do not require a long time to grow so wait to plant or plan on replanting later. The frost resistant veggies could include assorted lettuces, radishes, carrots, beets, cabbage, broccoli, and peas. A local gardener could suggest the best time to plant for a fall harvest. We keep one bed for a "Life Cycle" garden and make successive plantings. We do not harvest all of the crop when it is ready but let it go to seed so students can see how seeds are formed for growing the next crop. Radishes, lettuce, and cilantro(coriander) can be planted every two or three weeks to give a good display. Make the first planting now. Have fun with your garden. I've found raised beds are ideal when using gardens for education. A group can gather around the raised bed and everyone can see. No one has trouble knowing where they can step, either. Plus care of the grden is easier in my opinion.

Great thread! Something I was planning on doing for my containerized tomatoes next season (I balcony garden) is mixing some coconut husk chips (1/4 to 1/2 inch chips, not coir) in with my potting mix as the chips retain a good amount of water AND air. I saw that someone suggest coconut coir (which is shredded coconut husk fiber, not chips) in their mix yet I have never used this product and can only suggest using actual chunks of coconut husks. I admit that I am a novice when it comes to tomatoes but for my containerized citrus trees I use a 4:1 ratio of CHC and peat and it works amazingly. For my first Meyer Lemon tree I simply potted in Miracle Gro for cactus and citrus and within a month or two all of the leaves on my tree had dropped and it appeared to be dead. I decided to repot it and the mix smelled aweful and was still wet after not being watered for about 3 weeks. I repotted it in the 4CHC:1peat mix and within a month or two it started to bud again and rebounded. The first ingredient in Miracle Gro for cactus and citrus is peat which holds entirely too much moisture for citrus in a container (at least for it to be the number one ingredient). I'd bet that just about any mix that has peat as the number one ingredient for growing nearly anything in a container will eventually become problematic because of a lack of oxygen to the roots of the plant. When I bought CHCs at the begining of the year I got a 3 cubic foot bale (after being dried and compressed) and even after potting my 15 or so citrus varieties I still have about 2.5 cubic feet that is just taking up space in my storage unit. Depending on what potting mix I buy for my containerized veggies next year I would like to mix at least 1 or 2 parts CHCs and see how how the plants respond. CHCs expand and contract just like a sponge (holding a great amount of water and more importantly air) and also takes forever to breakdown (literally years which is what makes it great for citrus). Here is a link on CHC usage and I used the same supplier they suggest (Crystal Company) as they wash their product 3 times which removes a good amount of salt buildup that may exist. I am not sure if any of my information is useful for tomato growers but if you have never used CHCs before for anything I would suggest giving some a shot (get a citrus tree also!). Great posts folks! Joe