Unfortunately, the link provided by banana-grower (and cut-and-pasted above) doesn't seem to provide any info on tissue-culture. As a matter of fact, it says, "...most of Banana is grown by planting suckers." Banana-grower operates in Melbourne, FL. Before I moved to the Florida Panhandle (and bringing my 'nanners with me!), I lived in Vero Beach -- which is a little less than an hour south of Melbourne on the Atlantic coast, or about 45 miles or so. Despite the fact that the two places are fairly close geographically, there is a transition between the sub-tropical and temperate zones between Vero and Melbourne, actually visible from I-95 as one drives between the two locations. I recall it getting quite a bit cooler in Melbourne during the winter months, so, to call it "sunny Florida" conjures images of conditions like those in Miami -- which is in truth substantially different. I don't doubt that there are varieties which fruit sooner than the rule-of-thumb six months, but it's probably not accurate to lump all bananas into the same cultural/growth time-line as each other. Certainly it takes a bit more than "watering daily" to get them to fruit sooner. Watering daily during cooler months when bananas slow down will get you rot problems, so, a greater understanding of their growing requirements is necessary than this overly-simplified answer. Surprisingly, there is a lack of info on the web concerning the length of time it takes to ripen bananas before harvesting -- although several sites discuss the post-harvest stage. I found the following which might explain how commercial growers are able to get away with harvesting a bit sooner, but also why grocery-store bananas are a bit "bland": ********************************* 1. Q. I've got bananas growing in my backyard and, I know that you're not going to believe it, they have produced little bananas! When do I harvest the fruit and how do I make them ripen? A. Unlike most other fruits, the banana will develop a resemblance to normal flavor after being harvested at any time after they are as much as 2 to 3 inches long: separation from the plant causes initiation of all ripening processes. However, the greener the fruit is harvested the slower these processes will be. Few of the ripening changes proceed well in banana fruits left to ripen on the tree: starch remains high and sugar consequently lower than in fruit ripened off the tree. Bananas shipped to this country are harvested "three-fourths full". This means that three fourths of the bananas have filled out and do not have the predominant ribs on the sides of the fruit. (When a banana is green and immature it has several obvious ribs down the length of the fruit. As the banana matures the ribs become less obvious.) Bananas need exposure to a naturally occurring gas called ethylene in order to ripen properly. Homeowners can "gas" their own bananas by placing them in an airtight plastic bag with several apples, which naturally emit the gas. ******************************** So, yes, commercial growers do harvest bananas more quickly, but it is at the cost of fruit quality. The following is the only other relevant discussion I could find on ripening time, from the California Rare Fruit Growers website: ************************** Fruit Harvest: Stalks of bananas are usually formed in the late summer and then winter over. In March they begin "plumping up" and may ripen in April. Occasionally, a stalk will form in early summer and ripen before cold weather appears. The fruit can be harvested by cutting the stalk when the bananas are plump but green. For tree-ripened fruit, cut one hand at a time as it ripens. If latter is done, check stalk daily as rodents can eat the insides of every banana, from above, and the stalk will look untouched. Once harvested the stalk should be hung in a cool, shady place. Since ethylene helps initiate and stimulate ripening, and mature fruit gives off this gas in small amounts, ripening can be hastened by covering the bunch with a plastic bag. Plantains are starchy types that are cooked before eating. ******************************* Bananas will, of course, bloom and fruit whenever they feel like it, also dependent upon varietal differences. My dwarf Namwah is just beginning to fruit now, despite consistent nighttime temps in the 40s with a handful to the mid 30s over the past few weeks! I also have a fruiting Ice Cream (as well as dwarf Brazilian and California Gold) which is about eight weeks old at this point. The dwarf Brazilian started in June so I'll cut it off in three or four weeks, but the CalGold and Ice Cream will have to stay on through the winter. I have a fuzzy memory about this and can't recall where I read it, but I seem to remember that Ice Cream is an exception that should be left on the plant until it starts to form black marks on the fruit skin to signal optimal ripeness before the finishing stage in your garage or closet. Hope this helps. Bruce C.

I know it's a little late to be commenting on this post that turned up in my search for info on Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica. Although this thread didn't have anything to do with my question about Loquats, I couldn't stop reading. Scott, you did a great job on this article. I enjoyed reading it and learned a lot. I'm particularly interested in the cold frames you made with the PVC. Last year I made some out of wood for my mom and stapled plastic to it. I will not do that again. I have a few questions for you, if you don't mind. (1) What width or diameter PVC did you use? I didn't realize PVC was that flexible. What makes it hold that shape? (2) Did you just sink the ends of the PVC directly into the ground? I couldn't tell because of the blankets. I'd like to be prepared long before winter sets in this winter. Your frames are great because they look easy to construct and easy to dismantle & store when not in use. Thank you.

No expert but this is what I found... Cold Susceptibility Blueberry blossoms and small berries are considered hardier than the blossoms of most fruits. Temperatures must drop below 28°F for economic losses to occur on highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum L.). The temperature at which freeze injury begins to occur depends on the stage of development from dormant flower buds through young fruit. During the winter, dormant flower buds of highbush blueberries will survive temperatures as low as -20 to -30°F while the less hardy rabbiteye (V. ashei Reade) have survived -10°F but are often damaged below 0°F. As flowerbud swell progresses, cold tolerance decreases. By the time individual flowers begin to protrude from the bud, temperatures below 20°F will begin damaging the most exposed flowers. When corollas have reached half of their full length, temperatures below 25 to 26°F will kill the complete flowers. However, at this stage, blossoms on rabbiteye blueberries may receive corolla damage at temperatures as high as 30°F. The corolla withers, but usually remains attached. The withered, unopened corolla prevents bee pollination and otherwise undamaged flowers drop rather than developing into fruit. Corolla damage to unopened highbush flowers that prevents pollination is seldom a problem with highbush blueberries. When the blossoms are open, a temperature of 27°F for more than a few minutes causes damage. Immediately after corolla drop and before the berry begins to swell is the most sensitive stage. A few minutes below 28°F will result in damage. As the berry begins to enlarge, susceptibility is similar to the critical temperature of 28°F for open blossoms.Frost

My first concern now is if I need to put a dome over seed trays or pots during germination. It is what is always recommended, and I can do. However, it's 90 degrees during days and 70 degrees at night and wondering if covering will steam bath them to death in this weather til they show a sprouting. (inside my house is about as hot since I have only one floor fan and one window AC) Rooting in water: I know coleus, begonias, etc can be rooted in water, and have done so. Didn't think pansies was on that list. I've read, altho you can get it growing roots in water, the plant system will not be as strong. Hope yours does very well. The baskets lining with landscape paper giving a cascading effect sounds great. I have a roll of landscape "fabric", I think it's called. Blackish which supposedly keeps out weeds. Wondering if that could work instead of the Weed-X-paper. I passed up a stack of burlap sacks at an estate sale a week or so ago. Stupid me. Yeah, the idea of planting pansies in pots is great, giving mobility when storms come especially. Tho' if a sizeable hurricane comes again this year, I might have to take refuge holding on to the chimney on the roof, with a bunch of pansy pots strung around my body.