Once a month may be a little light on watering in Arizona though, I'd say at least every other week in general with the weather there in summer. And that should be a deep long soak each time. Fertilizing three to four times during the warm season with a good fruit tree food should be enough. And water right after fertilizing always. And that amount of pruning should not be an issue, sounds like you did it right. Now with that being said; This is just a hunch on my part but is this by chance a dwarf pome shrub? And are the fruits on the small size, like a large ping pong ball? Did you plant it or did it come with the house? I ask because there is an ornamental dwarf pomegranate that has fruit like that. It has beautiful flowers, but the fruit is small with clear arils and no flavor. And yes the rind is tough and dry. If that's the case, nothing to do, just enjoy the flowers and plant a named variety pomegranate fruit tree.

I've had trouble with aphids on my bush field peas and on my pepper plants. The aphids wiped out one crop of peas completely. One thing that does help keep them off the veggie plants is companion planting with sunflowers. Small ones, big ones, doesn't much matter the variety from what I've found. The ants prefer to herd the aphids onto the sunflowers and the sunflowers are a very hardy plant that can take the massive aphid/ant load without dying. This was working well for me last season till the squirrels came through and wiped out every. single. sunflower. It was a massacre I tell you. Pretty yellow petals covered the yard. The horror. But, I'm hoping for better results this season since my hubby laid out rat poison and that took out the squirrels living in our roof too :)

You can grow all the stone fruit (peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines and even almonds which are a stone fruit harvested for their seed) and, if you're not in an area heavily wooded with cedar, you can grow apples. You will not necessarily get fruit from the stone fruit trees every year because sometimes they bloom too early and either the blooms or the young fruit are knocked off the trees by late frosts, but in the years when they do produce, they produce really well. I don't grow apples because our property is surrounded on four sides, or at least 3.5 sides, by property heavily wooded with cedar, making the risk of cedar apple rust high on our property. (One day I may break down and plant apple trees just to see if I could do it.) Because it takes both cedar trees and apple trees for cedar apple rust to complete its life cycle, you'd likely have to spray your trees with Immunox or something similar if you try to grow apples within a mile or two of cedars. Cherries have a tendency to bloom early as peaches do, but you'll get a crop some years. You do have to net the trees to keep the birds out. Figs grow very well here. Sometimes they'll freeze back to the ground but they come back pretty quickly and generally produce every year. If you choose your tree varieties carefully and select a mix of early, mid-season and late-season fruit varieties, you can harvest fruit for a long period of time. There are peaches, for example, that produce ripe fruit as early as early- to mid-June in my part of Oklahoma (southcentral OK) and as late as late July or early August. Not many folks here grow the really late ones that produce in August or September and probably that's because of the problems with drought and high temperatures and more pests later in the season. It does seem like the better quality fruit comes from the varieties that ripen in June and July. Pests are a bigger issue on those that ripen later but I don't have a pest problem at all on those that ripen earlier. Don't forget the other kinds of fruits---the berries! Blackberries are easy to grow and produce well, and strawberries produce well if you give them fertile soil, and can keep the pests under control. I don't have issues with strawberry diseases here in southcentral OK because we're usually hot and dry, but folks in more humid areas might have more disease issues for which fungicides would need to be used. For years I didn't bother with strawberries because the sow bugs and pill bugs would destroy the fruit before it ripened. However, now that we have Slug-Go Plus and similar organic pesticides, I can keep the sow bugs and pill bugs from bothering the strawberries. You might have success with raspberries if you're in NE OK and have good soil. If you have or can create acidic soil, blueberries grow and produce well here. Don't forget some of the less well-know fruit like fruiting mulberries, bush cherries and bush plums, elderberries, etc. You can grow banana trees here but it is rare to get ripened bananas from in-ground trees here because our growing season isn't quite long enough. I had a friend who got ripe bananas in Fort Worth in a year when the last spring frost was really early and the first fall frost was really late, but I don't know if you could do that here. We have native persimmons on our property but we have to fight the coyotes for every single fruit (they eat them green) and the persimmons are too astringent until after they've been frosted a time or too. You also could grow some of the annual fruits. Check the website of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds for seeds of some annual fruits. If you have a greenhouse or a place inside to overwinter citrus trees in pots, you can grow lemon, lime and a few other citrus fruits in large containers that are carried inside in winter. Grapes are high-maintenance and proper pruning is essential in order to avoid disease and get a good crop, but they grow well here. I've linked a fact sheet from OSU on growing peaches for you. If you look at the list of peach varieties, you'll see how planting different varieties can lengthen the harvest season substantially, but sometimes it is hard to find some of those varieties. Even though I removed approximately 95% of the young fruit from my fruit trees last year at the proper fruit thinning time, they still over-produced and we harvested about 340 lbs. of fruit from 2 plum trees and 1 peach tree. (That broke down to about 260 lbs or so of plums and about 80 lbs. of peaches).) So, you do need to have a plan for what you'll do with all that fruit in a good year because you cannot eat it all fresh. In our case, we made jam, jelly, juice, flavored syrups, and fruit butters; we froze fruit;, we dried fruit; we gave fruit away; and we ate as much fresh fruit a day as we could. Without a plan to preserve the harvest, a lot of your fruit will be wasted, so have a good plan as the years go by and the trees grow and mature and reach their maximum productive capacity. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Apple and Peach Varieties for Oklahoma

Yes I'm from Sweden! I did save most of the soil from the original plant, I changed mostly to get another pot. Next time I repot I will get some new soil after your instructions. Most of the leaves are dirty so I will give it a shower tonight. I think I should wait a bit for higher temperatures before I put it outside to not kill the flowers. I have an extra lamp that I can use a few hours when it doesn't get sun on the balcony. For my small seed grown plants I have used a mix of 70% regular plant soil and 30 % sand and some leca stones in the bottom. Is that good?