Most sources say not to prune stone fruit, including peach trees, until early spring so as to prevent disease entering the wounds (I think the idea is that unlike apples and pears, stone fruit wounds do not heal quickly in the winter). Some suggest pruning when the trees are in flower. As far as I can tell, pruning peaches is a balancing act. Since they only fruit on one year old wood, they need to be cut back pretty hard to stimulate growth of new wood for next year's peaches. (If you don't do so, you will get peaches, but the peaches may now be on hard to get at extremities of the tree.) On the other hand, you don't want to hack off all the branches on which peaches are being formed for the current year and be left with no peaches in the current year. Pruning while the tree is in flower, it is said, will let you determine just how many peaches you will still get, corresponding to the flowers you leave (of course, you will still need to thin to get decent sized peaches -- 6" between peaches -- so you must take that into account too). Hopefully Don will chime in with his thoughts on this matter, as he has had a lot of experience growing peaches in a mid-Atlantic climate, for after all what counts as spring in the northern part of the country is a lot different from what counts as spring here in Maryland or further south.

looks like a cherry tree to me Seems like borers have attacked near the base try to dig them out with a knife and a wire

Ravi: Yellowing and falling of leaves is one of the symptoms of bacterial disease. I don't know of anything that can be done about it once it is underway, but a young, healthy tree can usually stand one or two bouts of this disease. It will, however, weaken the tree during this growing season enough that any fruit you may have will be small and stunted. May as well take them off now. This next dormant season, spray your tree thoroughly with a strong copper compound, once at leaf fall and again just before bud break. That is the only effective way I know of to head off this disease, and it must be headed off before it develops. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Since you have a decently sized clear area surrounding the trees, you can get by with just removing some of the soil surrounding the trunk to expose the root flare, rather than digging and lifting. Much better for the tree at this time of year as well. Once the root flare is exposed, keep that area surrounding the tree mulched Avoid covering at least 3" all the way around the trunk but keep the remaining soil covered with a good mulch to keep weeds away and conserve moisture.