Thanks for the tips

Just wanted to post a followup on this for anyone who may come across this thread in the future. I always hate finding a thread full of good information, but then not knowing if it actually worked or not. I replaced the trees that died, and the new ones are doing great. Here's what I did differently. (I know that for some of you, these may be the most obvious things in the world, but some of us are still learning, even from our really stupid, obvious mistakes). - I waited til it cooled down. It got cooler earlier than I expected, so I was able to do the transplants a couple weeks ago. - Smaller trees. I did still really need the height, so I went with 6-8' tall trees (some are about 9', actually), but I got much smaller caliper (trunk diameter) trees. I tried for no more than about 1.5" caliper, measured 6 inches above the root flare (some are a little closer to 1.75"). They're definitely much less full, but they'll get the job done until they fill in and grow up a little. It helps a lot that I found out that for screening purposes, eastern red cedars can be planted as close as 4' apart. Bigger, fuller trees really aren't needed at that spacing. - No starter fertilizer. These are trees, not grass. I used some Fertilome Root Stimulator & Starter solution (per the manufacturer's instructions) when I planted, and may add some Superthrive in a couple weeks, just to get the roots really going before winter kicks in. - Much better care of the root balls. I didn't make perfect root balls, as such - after reading a whole lot of back and forth between scientists on the benefits of good root balls vs taking as much root as possible, even if they're outside of the dirt, I kind of went with a hybrid approach. I got as much root as I could, and kept as much dirt on them as possible. I kept all of them covered with dirt of some type for as much time as possible, and ensured that they never actually got dry. Total time from digging to planting was less than 4 hours, and most of that time, they were in some kind of dirt. - I watered with a sprinkler for a few days, to let moisture come in through both the roots & leaves, in case the roots were having difficulty of some kind. Then I found out about Wilt-Pruf (prevents moisture from escaping through the leaves, which causes a lot of transplant shock). I applied it per the manufacturer's instructions, and am now watering with a soaker hose, as Wilt-Pruf should also prevent absorption of water through the leaves. - I haven't mulched yet (life got in the way unexpectedly), but I will be soon. Something else I came across in my reading - mulch isn't required, but most bushes or trees that are mulched in their first year or two after transplant show 20%+ more growth than those that aren't. Since growth & size are my primary goals here, it's worth having that junk in my yard for a year or two. We'll see what, if anything, will grow under these trees once they're established, but for now, it's gonna be mulch. Thanks, everybody, for all the insights provided. Hopefully these results, and what I did to get them, will be useful to someone else in the future, too.

Okay just in case someone else is wondering the same thing, I'll follow up with my own post. Even though my hibiscus is still not looking spectacular, it is looking much better than last week, and I believe it was just transplant shock. I realize now too that I think it might have been too windy for a couple days and I think the plant may not have been able to establish itself in the pot due to the movement of the plant by the wind. After taking wire and securing it and then continuing to water it (mixed with a couple rainy days), it seems to have come back to life! So if your hibiscus is transplanted and a week later it still looks like it's struggling, it may still just be in shock!

cut down to 3 inches.. skip magical root stuimulators.. or any other cost.. or fert ... water properly .. doubt you can kill the things .. i would have probably cut them down.. before i dug them up ... as flowers themselves... are always immediately sacrificed when doing this in the heat of summer .. again ... doubt you can kill the things ... besides.. you know where you can get more ... lol i might also have put them in a pot in damp media.. and put them in full shade.. and planted them in sept or so ... if they were more valuable plants.. worth the effort ... 'holding them over' if you will never forget.. just because you get your grubby hands on something.. does NOT mean its planting time ... many of the hardcore..have dozens of pots of stuff like this.. to plant in fall ... ken