Help transplanting a big jade plant
sunnysideuphill
16 years ago
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birdsnblooms
16 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Newbie help with jade plant please
Comments (8)Dawn, Going from a 1.5" pot to a 2" pot is not much of a difference. If you're going to repot, you might as well pot up a little bigger....3" should be good. Unglazed clay pots (like the one you have your jade in now) are good for succulents because they absorb water quickly...but as long as you get a pot with drainage you'll be fine. As for soil, DO NOT use regular potting soil. There is cactus/succulent soil you can buy, but even that is not "coarse" enough. I would get the cactus/succulent soil (in any nursery) and get a bag of perlite (also in any nursery), and mix about 1/3 perlite to 2/3 soil. You need very good drainage for succulents. As for fertilizer, once a month or even once every two months is fine....no more than that. I wouldn't fertilize in the colder weather though (just Spring and Summer). You can use cactus/succulent fertilizer or any houseplant fertilizer. I'd do a search in the C+S forum...there are so many choices for fertilizer. Enjoy your new jade! Gabi...See MoreJade plant emergency please help
Comments (3)Take a deep breath...now let it out slowly. It's going to be all right!! =) It could have just had a bit of transplant shock...but, yes, you are correct...you don't want it in soaking soil. You don't want it in sandy soil either (unless very large particle sand-like rocks). What you could do for now, is take the plant out of the soil it's in-removing as much soil as possible, without beating up the roots (or breaking them) too much. You can leave the plant out of soil for several days while you find something suitable. It won't die. Crassula ovata (Jade) can grow in regular soil in the ground, but if you're keeping it in a pot, something that drains well is best. It doesn't need Miracle-Gro either. Perhaps you can find some cactus soil (bagged) at your local big box store? (Or lots of other stuff added to the garden soil you already have.) You can add perlite, but it would be better if you could find other things to mix in (bigger particles, for water flow, like chicken grit). You do want some soil for retaining moisture that will also give nutrients to the plant. Everyone has their favorite mix. I'm sure others will help add to what I've said. Good luck!...See MoreJade Plant help please?
Comments (12)What is the particle size of the sand you are using? I know that the term sand can be very subjective, so it's important to know. As for nights being cool, in zone 8, you have a ways to go yet. When nights get under 50 consistently, I'll cut back a bit on the water, because while jades can go down to 40 F, having them too moist when going that low isn't ideal. I typically bring them inside when it gets a few degrees below 50, and begin the depressing process of moving them in and out every day. This is when the sad reality of the coming winter sets in, and my jades have to wait 6 plus months until they get to bask in the sun again. As for stretching the season, I believe it's what I mentioned above; bringing them inside when nights get too cool, but put them out during the day. This way, they get direct sun, but also avoid the cold. Joe...See Morehow big of a pot for a jade plant?
Comments (6)That's a very large pot for your cutting, especially at this time of year if you live in the northern hemisphere. Unless the soil is highly aerated and holds a minimal amount of water, for the first few months you'll need to be extremely careful about avoiding over-watering. I suggest you use a lot of ballast in the bottom of the pot (ballast is not the same as a drainage layer) or that you only fill the pot halfway until the plant is well-established. I wrote the following and saved it because this question arises often and factors that determine whether or not a pot is appropriate in size is often not well-understood. You're also going to need a way to stabilize the cutting in the pot. Initially, using a terra cotta pot and rigging a way to secure the plant so it's immobile in relation to the pot would be very helpful. Even small movements break roots until the plant is well-established. Choosing an Appropriate Size Container How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of grow media. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often repeated that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the medium will remain wet too long and potentially cause root rot issues, or at a minimum, limited root function. In reality, it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the medium you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the medium you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work. Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) media need to be grown in containers with smaller volumes so the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the medium before root issues more serious than impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy media quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller medium volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast (draining) media where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers in a medium too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know there is an inverse relationship between media particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. A PWT is water that fills spaces between soil particles and defies gravity by refusing to leave the pot. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, media will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the medium is ALWAYS well aerated, even when it is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a medium (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the medium volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work, and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in seemingly inordinately large containers if the medium is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that it holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist potting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive media. Well-aerated media are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue. AL...See Moreeileen_plants
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