Depending on the size you can unmold in a few hours to 24/48 hours. If these are just plastic bowl molds unmold in 24 hours. Did you spray the plastic bowls with some kind of oil or use plastic bag for a release. Plastic bowls/tubs when brand new, will release without an oil but after that they are etched and it gets harder to get your mold to release. I don't use glass. Water seeping/rising to the surface is part of the curing process. After you unmold, immediately submerge mold in water and /or clean your molds right away. If not your cement mix will stick to your mold permanently. If you want a smooth side leave as it came from the mold and submerge in a bucket of water for a couple (read couple) of days. If you want a rough texture, gently scrub the sides with a wire brush or scotch-brite, rinse with water then submerge in a bucket of water for a couple of days. Change water each day. This flushes out the lime. You can plant in 5 to 7 days. There is no reason to wait 2 weeks, a month, several months to use these planters.

Thanks Scott, your response is reassuring... I'll try the Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide Concentrate now so I can have some form of defense for the time being prior to the fall arriving. If this is a good approach. I'm guessing this is a mild solution of the copper as the website mentions about applying this stuff in 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed. Although when I looked at the label it says to apply as a dormant spray in late fall during a period of dry weather... Leaves me wondering if this can be used right now during the beginning of summer as a proactive measure. Maybe if I dilute the dosage some it wouldn't be so harsh right now? The plant won't be fruiting this year so I'm not concerned about damaging any fruits right now. The few flowers that it had seemed to dry up and die before they even bloomed.. :( This is the pdf file for the label on the copper fungacide... http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l811.pdf In late fall I could do the Bordeaux fungicide. I believe the Bordeaux be considered a dormant copper spray.. I'm new to all this and really appreciate all the help and suggestions. Thanks for the information blaze... I really think that I was over watering these plants when I first picked them up here from my nursery. I was watering them almost every day and I think twice I sprayed the entire leaves thinking this would help the plant, until I learned that this can invite diseases... :\ I'm hesitant now and wondering if I should wait on any type of mild copper treatments until fall. Maybe this might clear up and get better....? I still have all my fruit trees in pots. I'm planning on growing the nectarine and cherry tree in pots for now. I picked up two huge 24 in pots. These pots are giant. I want to transplant these into them pots real soon here using mels mix. I'm planning on putting these all on a drip irrigation system which I'm currently working on. I actually purchased a whole house filter in which I'll be using for the irrigation to help filter or minimize any chlorine, etc.. Initially I thought this may have been brought on by some sort of deficiency or over watering as I was watering allot on every session... I read that sometimes this can cause nutrients to be washed away from what little soil is in the existing buckets. Doing the finger test wasn't working well for me as the top inch of the soil would feel dry almost daily and I would water about that often not realizing a few more inches below the soil was still moist. I finally purchased a moisture meter which made me realize my trees were not as dry as I was thinking. As a newbie to the outdoor garden I have lots to learn. It's sad to have purchased some fruit trees just to have them go sick in just a few weeks time... Hope I can recover them and learn from this lesson... Question.. When you water a plant, does it matter how long you water the plant at that given moment? Is it possible to water too much if the plants are draining well? The buckets do have their holes on the bottoms and seem to be draining well. Does it make a difference if I watered them for 5 minutes with the hose or 30 minutes with the hose besides my pocket book? As long as I don't water them again until they need watering again? And do these type of stone trees, when using a moisture meter (if anybody in here does) should the readings always be on moist, wet or allowed to go dry prior to watering again?.. If you or anybody else may be familiar with those moister meter levels. Richard S.

If part of the reason for these forums is education (which it is), then I agree with the OP that the rhetoric could be toned down a little. Quickest way to get someone to turn you off and not listen to you and your cause? Piss them off with the the tone you answer their questions in. Back to the subject, I doubt the Bayer would kill the tree if it is applied per directions. That stuff you buy at the box stores is so weakened, and you only applied 3 oz. However you never mentioned how big the tree is. In defense of the OP, Japanese beetles are a terror in certain areas. They are so much here in my local area that I removed 2 crabapples a few years ago because I was tired of the swarms in the yard and the leafless tree for half the summer. So I can understand someone wanting to treat early in anticipation of the beetles. Now as far as stuff like root stimulator, we all know most of that stuff is snake oil. There ain't enough chemical in that to kill a fly, it's just made to make money off gardeners that don't know any better. A side note, all of you giving the OP a hard time...I'm sure you have a chemical free, organic lawn, right? It's amazing how many people I come across that will raise cane over 3 oz of insecticide, then apply 200 lbs of chemicals to keep weeds out of their lawn. To the OP, we all try to convince people to use chemicals only when absolutely necessary. I would have done the same thing you did. Now if it don't work, and you get beetles anyways, don't keep applying chemicals. Once they get started, there isn't any chemical available in a store that will control them. Pick them off by hand or just let them do their thing. I use chemicals only when absolutely necessary, in fact I am using them now trying to control leaf miners. And I agree, a lot of people are overusing chemicals, but part of the reason is non-education. They see 100 different brands of insecticide at Lowes, and they are marketed in such a way to make every homeowner think they need them. So we need to continue to educate the public, and maybe go after the chemical makers that are making money off gardeners that don't know any better. By the way, i would love to have a chemical free, organic body...but I got to keep putting these medicines in it to keep it going properly.

"It's an east facing window that gets several hours of light, plus I've added this 6500k 23w 1600 lumens grow light a couple inches above it. It's the same bulb specs my aerogarden uses." Judging from your photo, your fluorescent light has a higher proportion of green and cyan light in it than natural daylight does. With fluorescent bulbs, mixing light colors is equivalent to mixing phosphors. Green and cyan light are the least useful to plants, therefore there is no justification for putting green phosphor in a fluorescent bulb designed for plants. The only reason to put that much green phosphor in a bulb is to increase the perception of brightness to the human eye and thereby fool the customer. You have been scammed by the manufacturer.