No, seeds don't have an actual need for special soil to make them sprout. Seed starting potting soil is just a finer-grained mix that doesn't have big hunks of stuff to end up sitting on top of tiny seeds. Squash have big seeds which make strong sprouts that can readily push their way through ordinary soil. You can't put them under rocks or logs, but they'll do fine in any kind of reasonable garden soil. I've found that direct-seeded squash grow much better than transplants. Squash are noted for having delicate roots and they often take longer to recover from transplant shock than it takes for the seeds to grow to the transplant size. They want full sun, can't take any frost, and shouldn't be planted until the soil has warmed. Cool climate gardeners can speed up the soil warming by using clear plastic tunnels over the area where the hills will be but you have to let the bees in when the plants are flowering to get any squash. Squash are customarily planted in hills to ensure good drainage. To make a squash hill first dig a hole about 6-8 inches deep and a foot or so across. Fill it level to the ground with compost then mix in the soil you removed and shape a mound with a flat but slightly dished top. To plant the seed use your finger to poke 4-6 holes about 1 inch deep in a wide circle on top of the mound. Drop a seed in each hole then gently close the holes and firm down the soil on top of them. Water carefully so as not to wash them away. Thin to the best 2 or 3 plants after they have some true leaves. I know thinning hurts, but the roots need the room for the plants to be really productive. Make your summer squash hills about 3 feet apart so you have room to get around and between them to harvest. Given a reasonable amount of luck with the weather you'll soon be eating squash.

I don't think I picked them too early. Their skins were hard and they had a lovely blue color. When I did pick them, it was because I had to (zone 4). The cross-pollination is a good theory, but I got the seeds straight from the package (same package as the previous year). Growing conditions- I did grow them in a new spot as I have been trying to thwart the darn squash vine borer. I think i did a good job of adding in compost and manure to the soil before planting. This was the only squash I grew this year (SVB!) but all of the fruits off of the two vines I grew together taste awful. One thing worth mentioning- while in storage I didn't keep them as cool as I have in the past. The skins turned from slate blue to a pale peach/pink color. Perhaps that is significant? I appreciate your ideas. Barb

Thank you farmerdilla. I knew you would answer. You have such a wealth of knowledge about sqash. donna, I am not a squash connoisseur, I just know that these squashes were such a nice tasty vegetable. Coosas are also C. pepo like zucchini and other summer squash. Just a few genes make them taste different I guess. I am giving a few links that describe the taste of Magda, which is not what came to my mind, but I loved the taste. http://www.parkseed.com/gardening/PD/5784/ http://www.johnnyseeds.com/catalog/product.aspx?category=1&subcategory=479&scommand=page&qstateid=51bddb21-21ec-4c02-8eec-f45f43436ef1&sp=3&item=2913 I also found Burpee has there own hybrid http://reviews.burpee.com/1031/100074/reviews.htm I hope others comment on their experience with Coosa type squash. I have to say my Magda plants bear unbelievably fast and profusely. donna, try and grow some. You might even want to try some now. Katyajini

Lisa, Yes, it does have that kind of foliage. It is very pretty. I always try to plant the plants with the silvery mottling on foliage next to plants that have plain green leaves. That way, when they run together in one big mass, I can tell which plant is which and know which squash or pumpkins to look for in which area. The Tahitian Melon squash in the Three Sisters Garden currently runs rampant in an area about 30' long and 10' wide. It has a six-foot tall fence to climb. and another 30' feet of garden to meander its way through before it runs out of space. It was supposed to creep and crawl on the ground throughout the corn to keep the raccoons out. Instead it climbed the corn and latched onto the fence. However, the raccoons haven't bothered that corn. The Tahitian Melon squash started at the east end and is halfway to the west end. In the main garden, I have it growing on the fence at the northwest corner of the garden where poison ivy and Virginia creeper always try to creep through the fence from the adjacent woodland. I figured that if anything could outgrow those two invaders, it would be this plant or Seminole. Seminole was already in the middle of the garden so I put Tahitian Melon squash at the NW end, but the Seminole now is making its way towards the northwest (and the east and south)in its relentless quest for world domination. Sharon, With the Tahitian melon squash,e eat all we can, give them away, feed them to the chickens, feed them to the deer, feed them to the compost pile, etc. If you aren't going to preserve them, then one plant is all you need. In fact, it is more than you need, but you're stuck with them since it is impossible to grow half a plant. You use them the way you use any butternut squash, including to make pumpkin pies. It has a hard shell and will store for many months. With tromboncino zucchetta like Lisa and Carol are growing, you harvest them small and use them like zucchini. You can shred them and freeze them and use them in zucchini bread, zucchini-chocolate cake and zucchini-chocolate-chip cookies. Both of these generally outlive other squashes, zucchinis and winter squashes that are more vulnerable to SVBs. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: A Zucchini Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipe