Some radish cultivars have leaves that are not prickly, and these can be eaten raw. "Hong Vit", from Johnnys, is pretty good, and quite ornamental From Evergreen: "Pearl" is excellent raw. "4 Seasons" is slightly bitter. "Sai Sai" failed to germinate in my hands The 4 cultivars listed above were bred for their leaves, not for their roots. But I sometimes get good roots from "Hong Vit". The leaves are usually mild, but sometimes get a little hot. "China Express" has hairless leaves that have mild to moderate heat but are slightly bitter. The above ground portion of the root is quite mild, while the underground portion is just as hot as a typical American red globe radish found in supermarkets and salad bars. This is a spring radish. "Watermelon Type Radishes" are Chinese radishes with green skin and red flesh, and should be planted early fall. Their leaves are hairless and fairly mild but may be slightly bitter. Same comments for Chinese radishes that are grown in the fall and have either green/white skin with green/white flesh. About 1-2 years ago, I had a thread in the Asian forum on Garden Web, about eating the leaves of Asian radishes. I plan on updating that, possibly in about a month from now.

I suspect you are overwatering the beans, which WILL make the leaves turn yellow. Eventually the plants will die. Water only when the soil is dry two knuckles deep, and then deep-water the plants. Let the soil tell you when to water -- the beans don't need a watering schedule. Don't fuss too much with them, just keep them weeded, and they ought to do just fine.

That is the larva of one of the many moths, but I have forgotten just which one. Early in the life cycle of these the Bacillus thuringiensis - Kurstaki sprays are effective, but at this stage you may need a Neem oil spray or a pyrethrin spray or dust.

Without being able to see them, we're only guessing. Normally, with bean plants in the ground, leaf curl is a physiological reaction to stress of different kinds and probably most often it is a respond to wet soil. However, for comparison's sake, my bean plants in the ground (I don't grow them in containers, which is a different situation altogether) have had almost 6" of rain in the last week, most of that in one day, and the leaves didn't curl at all. Since your bean plants are in a container, your plants may curl their foliage a little because they are too wet, or too dry. Or because aphids or some other pests are damaging the leaves. Or because they have spider mites. Or, since much of Oklahoma just came out of cloudier, cooler, milder spell of good weather and suddenly we're much warmer (dare I say hotter?) and sunnier, the beans may be curling slightly because they are having trouble making the sudden adjustment from cool/mild/rainy to hotter/sunnier. A lot of my pepper plants had leaves curl up on the first day we had the heat and sun return but they returned to normal the second day, so you may be seeing something similar. The issue of them not blooming and not producing beans yet likely is a separate issue. First, I just want to say that beans will grow and produce in almost any soil in the ground but they generally are not as productive in really rich soil, and often will give you a lot of foliage but be very slow to produce beans themselves, so I deliberately plant them in soil that is not too rich or too fertile. Growing them in a container in a soil-less mix can be tricky because often the soil-less mixes have more nitrogen than they need and you get all leaves and few beans. It is hard to know whether your beans are having that sort of issue already or if they just aren't mature enough to flower and set beans yet, but most varieties of beans will produce beans within 60 days of sprouting, and some do it much, much earlier. Most bush beans are earlier than most pole beans. The timing of your bean planting also is something we don't know, but if your beans have been growing for 45 to 60 days or longer and aren't even trying to flower, then I think there may be a problem. I'm likely further south than you and I planted bush beans early. Mine produced for almost 6 weeks and then I yanked them out last week and bagged them up for the trash because they were heavily covered in spider mites, a common problem here in our rural area, and I wanted to get those heavily-spider-mite-laden bean plants out of my garden. I didn't mind yanking them out as 6 weeks of production is a long time for bush beans to be in heavy production and the plants were starting to slow down as they were becoming old and tired, and they had produced huge loads of beans, enabling me to put up a lot of beans in the freezer for future meals. Also, the pole beans I planted in April now are blooming and setting beans so I didn' really need the bush beans any more. So, if your bean plants have been growing since March and they are bush beans and aren't blooming, I think they likely have too much nitrogen. If they are pole beans and have been growing since, let's say, early April, they probably should be blooming, but some pole varieties are much later than others. Of the 4 or 5 pole varieties I planted in April, only 2 have started blooming so far, and the earliest one has produced its first harvest. If you planted later than mid April, your plants might need a couple more weeks yet before they begin blooming. Much depends on what variety they are and what your weather has been like. And, if you only planted them in May, whether they are bush beans or not, they probably wouldn't be blooming yet but hopefully are getting close to blooming. I wouldn't pull them out now. It is too late to start over with spring beans and too early to plant fall beans. Often, in June through August, and especially in July and August, we have the kind of high temperatures here that cause bean blossoms to fall off the plants without pollination occurring. This is called blossom drop and there's not much of anything you can do about it except hope and pray for a cool spell with more favorable weather. So, your best chance of getting beans to pick and eat this summer is for the plants you already have to bloom and set beans in June before the typically very hot weather arrives for July and August. If you seeded new plants now, by the time the beans could sprout, grow and get large enough to bloom, we likely already would be having the kind of heat that causes blossom drop, unless we are in the midst of a record cool summer. You have to match your legume to the weather we have. Bush or pole beans, if planted at the appropriate time for your part of the state, normally produce a spring to early summer harvest before the heat shuts them down. Most years the heat will shut them down, but every now and then the weather is extra-cooperative and they will produce all summer long. I believe I had that sort of bean year in 2012, but it is fairly rare. For production in June through August or later, I grow lima beans and mostly southern peas like pink eye purple hulls, zipper peas, cream peas, lady peas, blackeye peas or crowder peas. There's many varieties of southern peas. They love heat and prefer poor soil (rich soil gives you more leaves than peas) and produce like mad in our hot summer weather. We generally are harvesting southern peas here from late June through October when the cold nights finally shut them down. For fall beans, I plant pole beans in July and bush beans in August so they can produce in the cooler weather of September and October. If you plant your bush beans earlier than the recommended time in July, they generally just get pest-infested and suffer blossom drop from the heat and don't produce, so I wait until the recommended time to seed the fall crop. Mid-summer can be very hard on beans in our climate. So, if you decide to replace your beans at some point in the next few weeks if they never kick into production, you might try a southern pea that is better adapted to producing in the heat. Finally, if the leaf curl is only slight, then I think it is the sudden change in the weather or the excess moisture, but if the plants begin to twist and contort in odd ways, that would be a different issue. Were that sort of odd behavior to occur, then that could be from herbicide drift or from herbicide carryover in the growing medium, and this would be an entirely different issue.