Fungicide timing questions
14 years ago
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- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
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two questions- fungicides and tanglefoot
Comments (1)Nancy: The chemicals you mention are generally used as cover sprays in the dormant season, although you can apply wettable sulphur at a low rate during the growing season against diseases such as powdery mildew on apples. Your description of the orange spots sounds more like cedar apple rust, although I guess scab is also a possibility. If you have eastern red cedars nearby (Juniperis Virginiana) however, it is almost certainly CAR. This is a persistent disease spread from the cedars with the spring rains, and is not susceptible to control by dormant sprays. If it is to be controlled at all, it is with sprays of an effective fungicide several times early in the season, beginning at pre-bloom. I have red cedars not far from my orchard, and after years of fighting this disease off and on (it varies each year with weather conditions) I finally found a fungicide that is almost fully effective against CAR called Ferbam. It is very difficult to find this fungicide on the consumer market, and it is usually sold to apple growers in large amounts. Your best best might be to visit a large apple growing operation and try to talk the owner into selling you a pound of this stuff on the side. One pound would last a small hobby grower for many years, since only two applications are enough each spring. It comes in flowable granular form, and I use about 1 ounce or less in a 4-gallon backpack sprayer. There may be other controlled fungicides out there that are also effective, but they are not on the consumer market and could be even more difficult to obtain. The problem with ants and aphids is more straightforward, and is a matter of spraying your trees early with a common insecticide like Malathion that is effective against aphids. The ants are a symptom of aphid activity, not the cause, so blocking ant movement with tangletrap or some other strategy would not achieve a great deal. If you can achieve a reasonable degree of aphid control early in the season, they will usually not cause severe damage to an apple tree. Trees will put up with a light infestation, but if it becomes heavy it can curl up just about all your leaves and ruin your season. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See Morequestion for those who use corn meal as a fungicide.
Comments (22)For the inquiring minds, the corn meal experiment is ongoing at Texas A&M University at Stephenville. It has been going on since at least 1995 with no official results published. However, the organic folks here in Texas have taken the bull by the horns and have had great success with it. The application rate to kill active disease is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Disease can be prevented with 10 pounds per 1,000 applied every 60 days. It seems to work against most turf diseases as well as powdery mildew on other plants. It does not work against black spot on roses nor rust on turf. It can also be applied as a liquid spray if you make corn tea by soaking corn overnight in water. A handful of corn in a gallon of water works. And now is a good time to use it to prevent snow mold, etc. Look in your grocery store for bulk corn flour where they sell bulk wheat flour....See MoreQuestion about Neem & fungicide
Comments (14)But after a really wet spell, I discovered EB and used the Ortho to check the blight. It's done really well, but I wasn't aware that it kills the bugs! **** Daconil doesn't kill bugs. I asked about the Neem b'c I think it's best to ID the specific bugs or whatever and then chose the most appropriate product that targets those bugs. Someone above asked about how often to apply Daconil. I think the dorections say every 5-7 days or something like that but I think it also depends on the disease pressure one has as to how much problem there is with the fungal foliage diseases, in other words a quantitative issue. But when it comes to Late Blight ( P. infestans) keep up with the spraying and don't let off no matter what. It's difficult to say what one does when it rains, that's a judgment call, but right now my tomato plants are being resprayed after ANY rain, which here where I live can sometimes be several days in a rown. Spray the plants, two hours later a downpour, you get the picture. LOL But I also live in the NE where late Blight has again been reported but to date I haven't seen any reports of confirmed LB in NYS. But sonce LB spores are known to travel hundreds of miles via wind and rain I'm taking no chances. The fungal foliage diseases are not as bad as Late Blight which is usually lethal in a matter of days. Carolyn...See MoreCan I spray fungicide, pesticide & foliar feed all at the same time?
Comments (2)My thoughts...(not judgements)...are that I don't want to eat anything that has been treated with a chemical. Why not research what is resistant to what you get disease-wise in your area and grow that? Look into floating row covers or a better timed planting to avoid insects? Plant deterrent plants with your squash to ward off insects. For me..if I'm going to eat chemical laden vegetables, I might just as well go to the store....See More- 14 years ago
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