Hi, Diane-- Speaking from New England zone 7A, my alba maxima gets full sun most of the day in the northeast fenced corner of my potager, and blooms well. About 10 years ago I had an alba semi-plena which gradually got shaded (buddleias and hydrangeas) and finally gave up and died. Also, the shadier it got, the fewer blooms it had. Try to place your maxima in as much sun as possible; not easy, given your fog. Carol

DianeKaryl, I have some that does well on my north facing wall. I may not get a "Prize Winning" bloom on it, (but it does bloom well for me) that's not why I grow flowers. I grow flowers because I like them and they look pretty, and for that, my rudbeckia does just fine by me. I live in a condo. I only have a north facing wall, I have shasta daisies, balloon flowers, salvia, columbine, monarda, Sweet William, dianthus and many others that are supposed to be full sun and all of mine grow, bloom and look just fine to me. I no longer look at the recommendations because the real test is how it does FOR ME in MY garden.

120F = Severe heat, but if plenty of water is available, the plants are fine. This temp is way above levels at which pollination can take place. Plants with heavy fruit set may show stress. Nutrient transfer imbalances occur because the plant is busy moving water into leaves instead of moving nutrients into fruit. 92F = This is the temp at which pollen starts clumping and blossoms begin to drop. 70F to 92F = This is the goldilocks zone. Tomatoes grow prolifically, flowers set readily, plants need maximum fertility in the soil. The high end of this range is optimum for spread of several foliage diseases. 65F to 72F = the best temperature to grow seedlings. 50F to 65F = this is the beginning of cold stress. Tomato plants in this range grow slowly, often produce anthcyanins (turn purple), and become pale green from loss of chlorophyll function. 32F to 50F = This is the range where normal tomato plants show severe cold stress. Leaves shrivel, turn yellow, wilt, stems lose turgor, roots stop absorbing water. If your plants get this cold overnight, you can reverse the effects by raising the temperature above 90 degrees the next day for the same length of time they were too cold! 28F to 32F = This is the maximum range most tomatoes can withstand without freezing. Note that if frost forms on the leaves, then the leaves will freeze and die. The plant may live and can form new leaves, but the stunting effects take quite a bit of time to overcome. 22F to 28F = This is the range that a few select varieties can withstand for brief periods of time but stipulating that frost on the leaves will still kill them. 15F to 22F = This is the range that a few Russian cultivars are reported to survive, again only if frost does not form. The reports I have read indicate that this tolerance is only for a limited time period, in other words, repeated low temps for 3 days or more will still kill the plants. 0F to 15F = A few Russian cultivars are able to handle temps this low for brief periods of time. This is the low end of the range that wild tomato species S. Habrochaites, S. Chilense, and S. Lycopersicoides can withstand. DarJones

All yews are extremely shade tolerant and will grow in almost total shade. However, that is not their preference. Growth will be slow and and the plant may become leggy with sparse foliage. And you may find the plants leaning towards a stronger light source. I recall a planting of Hicks at an older private garden that were shielded from all but the early morning sun by a tall fence and larger adjacent conifers. They were massive and well-developed but had a marked lean to the early eastern sun.